My R65 flat quit on me...

[nhmaf]

Oops, I didn't notice that you indicated "12V LED" in the schematic - this IS important as using a regular LED (0.7V) in its place will cause a problem.
I don't know if many will know or easily find the difference between them.   The following schematic will also work and uses very readily found parts.
 The 1K Ohm resistor should be in SERIES with the LED, not in parallel with it.  Otherwise, you DO risk damage to the Hall Effect sensor since the LED will only have about 0.65V across it and will not limit the current through the sensor.  That is what the 1K resistor is for.

Here is a diagram for a tester which is credited to R Frankham.  It is handy in that the extra push button switch enables one to "test" the tester, so if pushing the button does NOT cause the LED to light, the battery is no good.   Otherwise, one would not use the little push button switch to test the Hall Effect sensor.
Testing is as simple as connecting it up to the connector and turning on the power switch to the 9V battery and turning the sensor (with or without motorcycle engine attached).  The LED should come on when the vane alignment cause the magnet in the bean can to trip the sensor, which should be near TDC.
Do NOT have your ignition turned on (Safest to disconnect the motorcycle battery !) when doing this test.

[Justin B.]

Mike, that is the circuit I was thinking about.  As far as the 12V LED goes, I would assume it to be one of the "assemblies" seen on e-Bay that come with an integrated resistor as all LEDs take approx. a .7 V forward bias and you just add the appropriate resistor to limit the current to something that won't fry the LED.  I have some that panel indicator assemblies that run off 117 VAC and contain a little circuit board with a resistor and a diode, but I digress...

[nhmaf]

Yes, my concern was that someone might not notice or understand the 12V LED reference means an integrated resistor is not shown in the drawing and put in an LED that one can get for less than $.25 at Radio Shack.  I design electronics for a living and virtually never use the pre-fabricated parts unless they really are cost effective to do so - this often doesn't work unless I am designing something that is extremely low in annual volume or the part in question is truly a 'rare bird', and even then, I have to spec out what the values/tolerances, etc. need to be for the pre-fab part.   One company's 12V LED assembly may well not be just the same as another's, and I like having things boiled down to the lowest detail, if it is important.

[nothing]

The 1K Ohm resistor should be in SERIES with the LED, not in parallel with it.  Otherwise, you DO risk damage to the Hall Effect sensor since the LED will only have about 0.65V across it and will not limit the current through the sensor.

I designed my circuit based on the application notes for compatible Hall Effect sensors I have found. These notes specify that a pull-up resistor of 1k-10k ohms be connected to the sensor output circuit, between V+ and sensor output. That is what the resistor is for, and it is connected properly.

Yes, by "12V LED" I meant an LED assembly with integrated resistor. A discrete LED in series with an appropriate resistor may be substituted. Had I chose to illustrate the circuit with a discrete resistor, I could not have specified a resistor value without also specifying a particular LED, as different LEDs can have different voltage requirements. 12V LED/resistor assemblies are extremely common these days. My goal was as simple a circuit as possible, I think it is clear what was intended.

This circuit has been tested on both Airheads and various Audis.

[Justin B.]

Nothing, thanks for the alternative.  I had followed discussions on Robin's tester when he was originally designing/building it and was somewhat familiar with it.  I really should order a couple of hall sensors one of these days...

[nhmaf]

The 1K Ohm resistor should be in SERIES with the LED, not in parallel with it.  Otherwise, you DO risk damage to the Hall Effect sensor since the LED will only have about 0.65V across it and will not limit the current through the sensor.

I designed my circuit based on the application notes for compatible Hall Effect sensors I have found. These notes specify that a pull-up resistor of 1k-10k ohms be connected to the sensor output circuit, between V+ and sensor output. That is what the resistor is for, and it is connected properly.

Yes, by "12V LED" I meant an LED assembly with integrated resistor. A discrete LED in series with an appropriate resistor may be substituted. Had I chose to illustrate the circuit with a discrete resistor, I could not have specified a resistor value without also specifying a particular LED, as different LEDs can have different voltage requirements. 12V LED/resistor assemblies are extremely common these days. My goal was as simple a circuit as possible, I think it is clear what was intended.

This circuit has been tested on both Airheads and various Audis.

Your circuit is fine - the reason that I indicated series .vs. parallel was initially I just saw the LED, and not the "12V LED" designation.  I virtually never use the pre-assembled LED/resistor packages in my work, so I didn't look at the text initially.  But, in my edit of the note I forgot to change that sentence.

[montmil]

Monte, Been lurking on this one but now that you have narrowed it down to the hall sensor I'm a bit surprised you aren't going to replace it yourself. A bit fiddly but well within your talent... rich

Rich, you are too gracious as to my "talents". After checking several "official" BMW dealers and their prices for the bean can assembly -from $499.00 to $399.00...ouch!- I shipped it to Rick. When Justin mentions an oscilloscope for a test... I'm outta here!  

Talked to Rick at Motoradd E this a.m. and he said he'd git 'er done and back to me asap so I can finish my Sunday morning ride. His price for an overhaul is $175.00. Yes, that's a bite but I really appreciate Rick's skills. Wasn't it The Duke who said, "A man's gotta know his limitations". Or Dirty Harry Eastwood?

Thanks, "Nothing" for your assist with the tester diagram. I'll build one and hope I don't need it for a long time. This thread just gets better and better. We can save a buncha BMWs. Gotta love it. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[nhmaf]

Montmil - That is one of the classic Dirty Harry quotes !   I use it at least once a month, if I can !

[williamemack]

Monte, If you haven't already, check out : motobins.co.uk/services.php#Older  It may have a clue for you plus a lot of other good tips.

[balibeemer]

I had the same problem 2 weeks ago. NO SPARK. After trying to start, no spark - but a very hot coil. Pulled the leads and a lot of verdigris (green corrosion) on the RH HT cable connection to the coil. Temporarily fitted a jap coil just to test - NO SPARK. Bean can OK. Ergo, the Ignition control unit. Ordered a new coil, HT leads and ICU from Motobins in England. 90 minutes after receiving them, the bike is running like a dream!

[montmil]

I had the same problem 2 weeks ago. NO SPARK. After trying to start, no spark - but a very hot coil. Pulled the leads and a lot of verdigris (green corrosion) on the RH HT cable connection to the coil. Temporarily fitted a jap coil just to test - NO SPARK. Bean can OK. Ergo, the Ignition control unit. Ordered a new coil, HT leads and ICU from Motobins in England. 90 minutes after receiving them, the bike is running like a dream!

...and I'm still waiting and waiting and waiting for Motoradd to return my overhauled bean can. Forced to ride the other R65.

Monte

[Yikes]

That's why everyone needs two bikes.  One to ride while the other is being worked on.  Still trying convince my wife of this necessity, but have't quite gotten there yet.  

[montmil]

That's why everyone needs two bikes.  One to ride while the other is being worked on.  Still trying convince my wife of this necessity, but have't quite gotten there yet.  

Rather brisk here this morning with 20-25 mph winds and lower 40's. Still went out for a short ride and fueled up at $1.81 for regular. Saw no other bikes on the roads. My chilled fingers may explain why. My feet and shins were comfortable thanks to the Beemers "factory feet heaters".

Supposed to freeze tonight. Our first of the season. I have been mulching plants in preparation. A pot of homemade chili is also in order. This ain't Bali  8-)

Monte

[suecanada]

I have read this entire thread and understood very little except to get a second bike again AND carry some extra parts like an ICU. AND be on my way to Mike's home; better still be very close by and have him test things and fix it!!  I have an extra Hall Sensor from Newarks? so I must read what to do with it!!

[balibeemer]

That's why everyone needs two bikes.  One to ride while the other is being worked on.  Still trying convince my wife of this necessity, but have't quite gotten there yet.  

Rather brisk here this morning with 20-25 mph winds and lower 40's. Still went out for a short ride and fueled up at $1.81 for regular. Saw no other bikes on the roads. My chilled fingers may explain why. My feet and shins were comfortable thanks to the Beemers "factory feet heaters".

Supposed to freeze tonight. Our first of the season. I have been mulching plants in preparation. A pot of homemade chili is also in order. This ain't Bali  8-)

Monte

No , it isn't Bali, you lucky devil!. At the moment we have 31deg. C and about 88% humidity! - and it's gonna rain - AGAIN!