My R65 flat quit on me...

[montmil]

Latest update on my ignition concerns...  Came in this afternoon and did a test, again, to try and get a spark at the plug by turning on the ignition and toggling the cut-off switch.

As I am suspect of the vintage cut-off switch, I disassembled the switch and used some new ChannelLock needle nosed pliers to "toggle" between the copper contacts. I won a big set of ChannelLock products at a chili cook-off... but that's a story for another time. Toggle, toggle...

Eureka! I got multiple strong sparks from the sparkle plug! Happy dance in the shop as I may save some bucks by not having to replace the bean can and Hall sensor.

The cut-off switch is pretty well toast. Some plastic bits are crumbly and after 28 of service, it needs replacing.

Re-Psycle http://re-psycle.com/ is a favorite of mine so will call 'em on Thursday as they're closed Wed & Sunday. Hope Mark and Marco can help me out. I like those guys.

Will post again as progress is made.
Again, thanks to all for "holding my hand" with good tips and ideas. Y'all stop by for a cool one anytime.  [smiley=beerchug.gif]

Monte

[montmil]

...These days I carry my old, but usable, crack-o-matic coil and a spare ignition module in with my spare parts kit.  With these pieces and a test light I'll never be without what I need to repair the entire ignition system.  I bought the spare module at a U-Pull-It for $5.00.  It came from an early 90's Volkswagen Quantum, or some such, which used the identical type of system as our bikes...

BigJohn got me thinking about Ignition Control Modules (ICUs or ECUs) so I checked my favorite source for my '86 Cabriolet parts. Look what I found for $35.00!  Motoradd Elektrik has a non-BMW replacement also.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=g0zw4u55bzxwz245cfe20r55&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1280348@CABRIOLET%20%20&year=1986&cid=25@Ignition%20Parts&gid=7172@Ignition%20Control%20Unit/Ignition%20Control%20Module

[steve hawkins]

Nice to see it was some thing simple and relatively easy to replace.

Cheers

Steve

[montmil]

While I search out a new/used right-hand switch assembly...

Is there any reason that I could not simply bypass the cut-off switch and ride on?  There is 1) a green wire and 2) a green wire with a blue chaser at the cut-off switch. Thinking that temporarily mating them would get me back up.

Am I thinking clearly here?    Thanks,

Monte

[steve hawkins]

That is exactly what the previous owner of my R100 did - bypassed the kill switch to keep the bike going - he switched the bike on and off using the ignition - weird  

However I do not have the circuit diagram in front of me.

Only he never did repair the switch

I was in there is I was removing extentions for the RT bar conversion he did.  I wanted to pull all the extension out as I wanted Euro bars.

Steve H

[Justin B.]

Jumping the wires together is the same as turning on a switch, the switch doesn't do any magic...  I personally never use the kill switch, but that's just the way I do things.  Scope = oscilloscope...

[montmil]

That is exactly what the previous owner of my R100 did - bypassed the kill switch to keep the bike going - he switched the bike on and off using the ignition... Steve H

Believe I'll give it a whirl. I'm going through R65 withdrawal and the weather is perfect temps for riding. Thanks, Steve.

I did make contact, today with Re-Psycle http://re-psycle.com/. Lee had several right-hand switches for R65s; all with the wire loom and connector block. As 78-85 R65s had the same switch design, I asked him to pick out a "fresh looking" used switch and send it to me. "Can do", says Lee.

Re-Psycle sells lots of R65 parts, both used and new. I have had nothing but good experiences dealing with them. May be just lucky, but each item I call for, they have had. I highly recommend them. Used parts are 50% of list so I got a new-to-me used switch for $33.00. Can't complain.

Re-Psycle recommends using the A&S BMW fiche to get your part number, then call. Here's that link... http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog/R65(78-85)/catalog_frameset.html

Spent some time this afternoon buffing up and adding dilectric grease to several connector blocks.

To quote the "Guvernator"... I'll be back.

Monte

[montmil]

Well, I've crapped out!

I followed all the Clymer and official BigJohn ignition tests and, while hoping against hope, I've had to pull the bean can and ship it to Rick Jones for an overhaul.

I get sparkle plug sparks when toggling the switch but nada when I hit the starter button. Ran the proper sequence tests on switches and power to coil. Coil and ICU good to go. Buffed up connector blocks and traced wires with a DVOM. Sigh... John, Clymer and others say it's the Hall sensor.

It's not a total down-time loss as a buddy called me last night and offered his beautiful R100S as a ride until mine is back up and perkin' along. Gotta love it!

Sometimes, money just seems to fly outta my pocket...  :-/  Stayed tuned. Film at ten.

Monte

[suecanada]

Bummer Montmil...I figured you had it solved! I love Re-Psycle too..they supplied LRB replacement passenger footrests when they were lent to the F650GS! Sadly, I lost in the accident a spare alternator, diode board, rotor and the bolt for removing the alternator for LRB which I had bought from Matt Parkhouse at the Gillette Rally. Now that bugs me!! I figured I had it solved for "electrical things that could leave me on the side of the road" with the R65LS!  I guess there are lots more but it would be interesting to ask what is handy to carry with us onboard?

[montmil]

Beanie Weenie off to Motoradd Elektric before noon today. $175.00 for the rebuild of my original is purty stout but less than dealer price from BMW. I'm going to have to be R-E-A-L nice around the house for awhile.  [smiley=engel017.gif]

While I wait, I need to clean out that nasty "can closet". I have a new gasket for the cover. That ought to help keep things a bit more tidy as there was no gasket installed when I pulled the front cover last Sunday... on the road... miles from a cold one.

Monte


Now you see it...


Now you don't.

[nothing]

The ignition hall sensor can be definitively tested with a 9v battery, a resistor, and an LED. The tester can also be used to set ignition timing statically (not really the best method but sometimes useful). I can dig up the circuit diagram if anybody is interested.

Improperly testing a hall sensor with a multimeter can kill said sensor. Easy to do, don't ask me how I know.

[montmil]

Post up the diagram... we're all interested.

I used the BigJohn/Clymer test procedure to locate the reason my scooter quit.

I had ordered a used but new-to-me right-hand switch assembly from Re-Psycle on Thursday morning, just after they opened at 1100 hours, Eastern. Lee was very helpful, had what I needed and said he'd get it out to me. A man of his word! The switch was in my mailbox Saturday morning. It now resides on my handlebar... right side.

Good guys up there in Ohio. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Give 'em a shout next time you're bike is hurting.

Monte

[MrRiden]

Monte,
Been lurking on this one but now that you have narrowed it down to the hall sensor I'm a bit surprised you aren't going to replace it yourself. A bit fiddly but well within your talent.
http://www.deathstar.org/~flash/ig_trig.html
http://www.geocities.com/fwarner_au/mc_things/bmwr_ign_sensor.html
rich

[nhmaf]

If one is handy enough to handle simple electronics projects, one can build a tester that will work on airheads as well as on oilheads !
Check out this link:
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_timing_box.pdf

The airhead tester would only have 3 pins on the connector (to mate with the 3 pin connector on the bean can) .. Pin#1 would be power (9V), Pin #2 would be the connection to the Hall effect sensor (through the resistor and diode), and Pin#3 would be the ground connection.  The oilhead has another sensor and uses a different pinout, as you can see from the link above.  If one can find the proper connectors, you could build this project for a bit over $20 in parts plus your spare time, versus spending much much more.

[nothing]

Post up the diagram... we're all interested.