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Misc. Technical Discussion / R65LS Tire Choices - Handling and Riding Impressions
« Last post by R65LS_Japan on October 20, 2026, 07:21:47 AM »
Hello everyone, greetings from Japan!

I ride a 1982 BMW R65LS and enjoy riding on winding mountain roads.

I'm interested in hearing about your experiences with different tire combinations and how they affect the handling of the R65LS.

My current tires are Continental ContiClassicAttack radials:

Front: 90/90R18
Rear: 110/90R18

I'm currently on my second set, running both tires tubeless.

I really like these tires. The steering is quick, and the bike feels very stable, although I find the available lean angle somewhat limited.

High-speed stability is also excellent, even near the bike's top speed.

The only real drawback is the price!

Previously, I used the following bias-ply tires in the original sizes:

Front: Dunlop F8 3.25-18 52S TL
Rear: Metzeler Perfect ME77 4.00-18 64H TL

I particularly enjoyed the handling with this combination.

The relatively large front tire gave me a reassuring feeling, while the bike still felt surprisingly light when leaning into corners, thanks in part to the characteristics of its longitudinally mounted boxer engine.

To me, this combination brought out the natural character of the R65LS and offered a very well-balanced, enjoyable ride.

I'm now considering bias-ply tires in the following sizes:

Front: 100/90-18
Rear: 4.00-18

However, I'm also interested in hearing about other tire sizes and combinations, including 90/90-18 front tires.

I'm particularly interested in steering response, turn-in, and how naturally the bike holds its line through corners.

If possible, please also mention whether you run your tires with tubes or tubeless.

I'd love to hear your impressions, especially from riders who enjoy winding roads.

Thank you!

R65LS_Japan
32
BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: tach light
« Last post by Steve on October 17, 2026, 11:18:31 PM »
Thanks so much. Just what I needed!
33
BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: tach light
« Last post by Tiedie on October 17, 2026, 05:28:36 PM »
The light inside my tach no longer comes on. The 8-pin plug on the back of the tach doesn't want to pull out. And having removed the 3 screws in the back of the tach the black plastic, rear part of the tach doesn't want to separate. I hesitate to force these things because the lack of a light doesn't warrant the risk of breaking something. The tach works fine otherwise. Also, I don't even know if the lightbulb is accessed from the back or if you have to take the front glass off.

Steve if you have the electronic Tachometer which I'm pretty sure you do. Try a tiny flathead screwdriver and pry lightly all around with care and it should pop off. Then remove the pod and take those 3 screws out and with the same small flathead screwdriver again gently pry all around with care. There's a seal so who don't want to tear it . There are 4 lights inside https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/productdetails.asp?ProductCode=Bulb-3W these are the exact ones you need unless you want to go led then you just gotta get the matching ones. I just changed mine out and what a difference.
Good luck.
34
BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / tach light
« Last post by Steve on October 17, 2026, 01:50:53 PM »
The light inside my tach no longer comes on. The 8-pin plug on the back of the tach doesn't want to pull out. And having removed the 3 screws in the back of the tach the black plastic, rear part of the tach doesn't want to separate. I hesitate to force these things because the lack of a light doesn't warrant the risk of breaking something. The tach works fine otherwise. Also, I don't even know if the lightbulb is accessed from the back or if you have to take the front glass off.
35
Misc. Technical Discussion / Re: RT screen vent
« Last post by Justin B. on October 16, 2026, 02:54:39 PM »
That looks like the vent in my Clearview shield.  They do work nicely.
36
Misc. Technical Discussion / Re: No spark
« Last post by Tony Smith on October 15, 2026, 06:11:14 PM »
The spark on switch-off narrows the area of inquiry.

As a further test leave the bike switched on and flick the kill switch off and on.

If you still have a spark each time you operate the kill switch the good news is that your coil and the Ignition Control Unit ICU are alive and what you are lacking is a triggering pulse from the bean can.

Open, clean and close each connector to the beancan - we are dealing with very low current so surface corrosion invisible to theeye will stop proceedings.

Put it back together and see if it works.

No - you  need a beancan.

Options.

My personal favorite - a complete Wedgetail system. This is the gold standard for airhead ignitions, the drawback is the price.

A refurbished beancan. I used to do these myself using the HKZ101 Hall Effect.I don't do this anymore as the last 5 beancans I have opened had significant wear in the mechanical advance/retard, you can't buy parts and my eyesight and patience are no longer up to fabricating new ones. Your mileage may vary.

The Australian tri-spark system seems to get mostly good reviews, i have never handled one but it ishard to disagree with happy cusomers.

Various crankshaft triggered systems.Never tried one, i have fixed one and was noot impressed. YMMV.

Revert to points using an early points beancan. This is not as silly as it sounds as there are a few points cans floating around that were removed from service and replaced by electronics years ago.

Boyer Bransden. I have 2 bikes with BB ignitions. One of them will be replaced by the Wedgetail I have waiting when I get around too it. Boyer are cheap-ish and they do work but I would refit points before fitting another.
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BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: Speedo/ Tachometer work
« Last post by Tiedie on October 14, 2026, 07:17:59 PM »
Hey Paul just saw this so hopefully it helps.
Ok here's the scoop on my situation. The 10k did ok but I changed it out with a 47k ohm 1/2 wat resistor and it calmed down greatly. Now let me also say that I'm running a Siebenbrock 860 power kit also so that produces a bunch of noises.
That's out of the way. I am also having bean can issues sooo switching to the EME digital ignition kit and new .3 ohm coils , which hopefully will help tame the tach too. But am planing on doing the capacitors in the tach too. I have all the parts on order and they should be here in the next few days. The tach  capacitors I'll tackle this winter or sooner.

I have extra 10K and 47k I'll be happy to send you a couple if you want.
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BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: Speedo/ Tachometer work
« Last post by Paul H. on October 12, 2026, 10:56:07 AM »
Tiedie, Just a fallow up. Did the 10k resister solve your tach problem? I'm having a widely fluctuating tach (84 R65) and plan to do a contact clean up as you outlined. Snowbum's article on the VBMWOA site suggest replacing the capacitors on the tach circuit board but did not suggest a resistor from the coil. I have seen that suggested for other electronic tachs so hoping for a simple fix. Thanks
39
Trading Post / Re: 79 R65 For Sale - Western NC
« Last post by kkjellquist on October 08, 2026, 09:23:11 AM »
Hey Tiedie...Hope you see this..... I rebuilt my brake caliper, which is fine, but I absolutely cannot get it bled properly at this point.  Can you give the info for your guy in town?  Thanks!
40
Trading Post / WTB Rear Cargo Rack
« Last post by BrianW on October 06, 2026, 09:45:01 PM »
Hello All,

I'm looking for an R65 rear cargo rack P/N 46 54 1 239 480 for my '84.

I'm in Eugene, Oregon

Thanks, Brian
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