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BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: Diode board replacement
« Last post by mrclubike on January 19, 2021, 09:45:50 PM »
  I use Tesa tape to replace the loom covering
It does hold fairly well and does not get all sticky and gooey like friction tape or vinyl electrical tape
You can cleanly unwind it to make changes to your harness.
It is just like the original. 
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BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: Highway stumble/loss of power
« Last post by dogshome on January 19, 2021, 01:58:31 PM »
Glad you found it.

Not quite sure how air gets in since fuel is under gravity feed and wants to get out! Possible rubberised junk in the pipes or swollen inside?

I had to uprate the fuel lines on my old 250 RD. 220 main jets, Micron MKI expansion chambers and various reed, port, head and case mods plus 30:1 petroil meant fuel consumption was a bit heavy with the rev counter clockwise past the high beam lamp. Lack of fuel on those meant either instant skirt or ring seize near the exhaust port or melting of the plug earth bar and subsequent arcing to the piston crown. The bottom ends were pretty tough and the piston usually destroyed itself in a way that didn't score the barrel or disperse aluminium into the main bearings. i never had the exhaust side of the piston go soft, usually something much more spectacular.

Lifting the front wheel at 40 with the cheery wave of an L plate as you took MGs, Jags, CX500s and CB750s off the island was always fun. Well not so much fun with a CX500.

Memory kicks in that I had to split the fuel pipe to the two carbs just under the tank or something, with bigger pipes and bored out fittings. Suzuki reed blocks and RD400 carbs also now remembering. They had a series in Motorcycle Mechanics or Superbike about how to tune your RD. I was well in front of the curve with that. Been there, blown it up twice already. Still using Yamaha reed blocks? How quaint.
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BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: Diode board replacement
« Last post by dogshome on January 19, 2021, 12:53:22 PM »
"Carry on Tugging / Cleo"  ;D

Tugging cables that is. So the tank is off, wiring and relays all look nice and clean under there. Hm, now that tatty one disappearing under, where does that go? Why do I get a hard stop on right lock and a squidgy stop on left lock? What's that manky bit of black mummified bandage hanging down under the handlebars? Why is that loom the wrong side of the brake line and catching on the steering lock.....

So baby wipes are great for cleaning manky wires  :)

My bike looks great from the front still (RT fairing) but like some martian weed in black from the headlamp back to the regulator. It'll all go back in. Yes it will. All of it. I have to say the quality of the wire, crimps and all the electrical stuff is noticeably better quality than the typical jap bike of the period. Nothing has actually snapped, perished or dropped to pieces. Apart from the black tape, which I may try to sell to the British Museum. A few drops of vinegar and an old Camel tobacco tin should do it.
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Trading Post / Re: wanted R65 1980 side covers
« Last post by SIMONGS on January 19, 2021, 05:27:38 AM »
Motorworks and/or Motobins in the UK have unpainted pattern side panels for not much money. The plastic used is softer than the brittle originals so there is a change they will last a while.
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Trading Post / Re: 1983 R65 for sale- Very Nice
« Last post by nhmaf on January 18, 2021, 10:09:04 PM »
Sure does look pretty!
Good luck with the Sale!  You may not get any bites now in the dead of winter, but if you are patient I bet you'll get some significant interest in a couple months.

I am probably going to be putting up my R100/7 for sale this Spring time -- I have 4 bikes in the garage now and this Spring time I gotta make room for an R69S with a sidecar... and it just won't fit with the (2) cars and all the other crap in the garage now
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Misc. Technical Discussion / Re: Riding without the $2000 white o-ring
« Last post by nhmaf on January 17, 2021, 10:16:24 PM »
Indeed - you may have won the "luck lottery" on this one and the internal canister for the oil filter was just enough "out" of its usual position to enable you to squeak by.    Definitely do check the oil filter for metal bits and hope for the best.  But if you aren't hearing ominous sounds and the pressure light never came on, maybe, just maybe, you get a "pass" this time.  We'll keep our fingers crossed for you!

Do make sure  you have the proper metal shim with the sharp edge away from the o-ring in place next time, too!
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BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: Diode board replacement
« Last post by Justin B. on January 17, 2021, 03:44:09 PM »
Well, look on the bright side - Kia brakes, every couple of years but you're good for another 40 years on the electrical!  :ROTFLMAO:
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Misc. Technical Discussion / Re: Riding without the $2000 white o-ring
« Last post by dogshome on January 17, 2021, 01:51:54 PM »
Weeeeel...... That O ring sort of stops the pump from bypassing the engine and going straight back in the sump. The oil pressure light is relatively low pressure. But on the other hand you've not experienced thumping big ends, growling main bearings or rattly valve gear. I tend to think you got away with it. I presume the gasket on the filter cover was not used? That just introduces a bigger potential bypass.

There is apparently some variation in the depth of the filter housing - it's pressed in? so you may have one that's nominally tight.

Fit the new filter (and maybe the o ring?  :D ) and see what happens. Hopefully what doesn't happen.

I rode my RD 250 for about 15 miles before suddenly realising I hadn't put any gearbox oil in. I'd just replaced the main bearing seals (2 stroke) and had split the crankcase. I bunged whatever I could get at the local garage in the box and never had an issue. 2,000 miles would have resulted in destruction though.

Cutting open the filter may show something. But if it's full of bronze or steel, you'll have had audible feedback by now. Of the crunchy, buzzing, rattling or thumping kind. Shake, rattle and graunch baby!
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BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: Diode board replacement
« Last post by dogshome on January 17, 2021, 12:55:48 PM »
Swapping the positive cable to the starter motor was a bit of a game. This expanded into moving the fairing bracket to where it should be (between the cables popping out of the front cover), and general snipping of tie wraps and cleaning cable looms using baby wipes. Both ends of the big cable were quite manky as was the battery ground strap.

Getting the diode board in was a bit fiddly with RT fairing and me at ground level, but quite satisfying to move the 40 year old wires, check and clean. I'd done the brushes 3,000 miles ago and they are still OK. The electronic regulator also had manky connections and obviously has never been off. Brass brush (also used elsewhere) and a few drops of ACF here and there. The PCB was a bit scabby, so that was cleaned in solvent but otherwise looks fine. Even the 40 year old sticky fabric tape came off AND stuck back down again.

The power transistor is a BD244A PNP 6A plastic package type if anyone ever needs to replace it.

I ran out of time to fit my FIAT potted modern regulator as it wants some spades and an aluminium plate making up.

The voltmeter now reacts as it should (13.8V just above idle) and my battery charger doesn't kick in when back form a short 30 minute ride any more  :beerchug: This is more due to the cleaning and reterminating more than the diode module - the original tests fine and shows no solder heating or corrosion. The timing cover has cast-in lugs on mine so I didn't need the solid mounting kit as there were no rubber bobbins.

I am already LED'd up (apart from indicators which I might do at some point) as that is a no brainer with a tiny engine speed alternator.

About 5 hours messing with all of this today. 1hr to change both sets of rear pads on my lads Kia i20. sigh.
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BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 / Re: Diode board replacement
« Last post by mrclubike on January 17, 2021, 08:49:01 AM »
Don't waist you money on the expensive PC board Tail light conversions
Just get the Sylvania ZEVO LED's
I have them in the tail ,stop and turns
red for stop and tail
amber for the signals
trimming is required to fit tail light
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