Boxer Bolshie's '84 Restoration and Rant

[Adrian]

Hi guys some very interesting fotos. My resto is still progressing but slowly. With regards to replacing the engine and gearbox I can - from experience - recommend that you have the bike back on its wheels before attempting this. I also had my centre stand fitted - it was a much more stable platform to work with. I now have a bike lifter that is hydraulic and lets the bike rest on its frame so it can be lifted up about 50 cms or so. It has made a huge difference when servicing so its gonna be a big help when I eentually reinstall the motor. Don't forget to protect all the paintwork with wrap around old cloth like old towels. No matter how careful you are Murphy's Law will always find a way to put a big scratch on yer new paint job.

[Dave 2]

I also had my centre stand fitted - it was a much more stable platform to work with

Thanks for the info, I had not thought about having the center stand on before replacing the engine into the frame. Considering what a difficult time I had removing the engine I am worried about  dinging the frame, but hopefully with the frame stable I will manage OK. D2

[montmil]

Those removable diagonal frame braces bring back memories of British rider Reg Pridmore and his Butler & Smith prepared BMW R90S which won the first ever US AMA Superbike championship in 1976.

Those diagonals actually passed through openings cut into the velocity stacks on the R90S' Dell'orto carbs. Also note the fairing stays welded to the frame braces.

Can't see them as being beneficial on a two-up, touring laden, bagger R65, IMO. However, the Rev. Light might look bloody good dressed with such.

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Yea, after posting the pic I started thinking that the diagonal braces might not do much for me unless I was going to race which I am most definitely NOT going to be doing! Still I hope to weld some gussets for more stability.

Here's how rusty the subframe was

[Boxer_Bolshie]

As my scrubbed parts bin is filling up I still have a couple of things left undone including divorcing the swingarm from the driveshaft and pressing the steertube from the bottom tree bracket.  

The steertube has to be heated up and then pressed out using a hydraulic press [sarcasm]like the one I used to keep in my hip pocket until just a few weeks ago[/sarcasm] while the drive shaft is proving to be a bit more of a challenge.  I have two manuals which both say that R65s after 1980 use a nut which secures the shaft splines and prior to that they were under tension from a spring which had to be compressed.  However, my 1984 R65's driveshaft does not have a nut but what looks like the tension type fittings (and the VIN# on the swingarm matches the rest of the bike).  I'm thinking I've misread...

[Bob_Roller]

The driveshaft needs to be compressed with a tool that looks like a Mcpherson strut compressor .

Once it's compressed, you'll find a circlip exposed at the final drive end .

Remove the clip, let the spring extend until it's 'unloaded' and the driveshaft will come apart so you can remove it from the swingarm housing .

[montmil]

...and pressing the steertube from the bottom tree bracket.

Why are you doing this?

[Boxer_Bolshie]

...and pressing the steertube from the bottom tree bracket.

Why are you doing this?

So I can get the chewed up race off. It's pressed in with the stem.

Mein "neu" alt voltmeter

[montmil]

Use a Dremel and a cut-off wheel to remove the bodged outer race. Leave the stem and lower triple clamp in sito. Remove and attempt a stem replacement at your peril.

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Use a Dremel and a cut-off wheel to remove the bodged outer race. Leave the stem and lower triple clamp in sito. Remove and attempt a stem replacement at your peril.

Thanks Monte for the heads up!  I'll give it the Dremel treatment before anything else!

Today I ran into my first bump in the road or should I say toast in the road!

[montmil]

Hello, eBay

[Barry]

You'll do well to restore that seat base. It will need a wizard welder. I wouldn't know where to start.

I don't know what the original paint finish was on the seat pans but they are certainly prone to rust. No undercoat was used of any description. When I re-covered my seat I was lucky and only found minor rust. After painting properly I was sure to apply lots of seam sealer to the stitching on the inside of the new cover.

[Boxer_Bolshie]

The seat pan is definitely NOT weldable as it's about 80% rust with large flakes easily flying off with my pneumatic blower nozzle.  I won't even entertain the thought of using my grinder on it as there would be nothing left in just a few seconds.  Even my wife who knows nothing of metallurgy said it was toast.  :-?

There is, however, enough there for me to make a plaster mould of it and then build up a fibreglass pan instead.  

[montmil]

There is, however, enough there for me to make a plaster mould of it and then build up a fibreglass pan instead.

Certainly don't want to discourage your f'glas seat pan idea, but keep in mind the stress placed on the seat pan's hinge attach points, the latch assembly and the attach points for the rubber bumpers. Your photos show some metal cracking that probably began before the heaviest attack of the rust zombies.

That's the original seat cover you have there, too. Note the number of pop rivets and sheet metal screws that pass through the thin, lower flange of the seat base and close to the edge. A fiberglas flange will have to be considerably thicker than the OEM metal. As such, it might be necessary to actually fab a wider seat base to provide clearance with the aft frame members. Both seats on my R65s pass close to the chassis when the seat opens up.

No doubt you could do it up in 'glass. As Bengt Phorqs asks me when we strike off on one of our motorcycle adventures, "Mongo, what's the worst that could happen?"

 

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Welded up the broken relay bracket today and finished removing rust and paint from all parts to be powder coated.  I think for now I'll forgo reinforce the frame... but we'll see how long I can last until get the hair to do it!