Loosening the R65 swing arm

[montmil]

I'm ready the draw back the transmission on the '81 R65 for a spline lube. Swing arm nuts have been loosened but not removed. Pivot pins still in place and the lower air box has been removed. All lower trans bolts have been loosened.

So... Is it necessary and/or recemmended to loosen the shock absorber bolts to allow aft movement of the swing arm?

I have also looped nylon rope over the seat and tied it off on each side of the swing arm to help keep down any surprises.

Seem to be doing more cleaning than wrenching Thanks for the help.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

Do you have the clutch arm off of the rear of the transmission ?

I have always removed the swing arm/final drive from the bike, when working on the transmission .

I do believe, that the swing arm pivot bolts need to be removed, to allow enough clearance for the transmission to come out .

[montmil]

Do you have the clutch arm off of the rear of the transmission ?

I have always removed the swing arm/final drive from the bike, when working on the transmission .

I do believe, that the swing arm pivot bolts need to be removed, to allow enough clearance for the transmission to come out .

I'm doing the ghetto-style spline lube; working with the trans just slightly back from the engine.

Have not yet removed the clutch arm. And, yes, the pivots must come out. But before freeing up the unit, I'd like to be prepared to not have any hinderance from the shocks.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

You could just loosen up the upper shock mount bolts, so it pivots, I use a milk crate to rest the final drive/swing arm assembly on .

[montmil]

...I use a milk crate to rest the final drive/swing arm assembly on.

Remember when those milk crates were made of steel? Why, every self-respecting bike wrench turner and off-road racer -me included- had a couple of 'em to park the bike on. Plastic now. Hardly worth stealing 'em anymore. 8-)

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I thought lubing the input splines the lazy way was so you DIDN'T have to bother the swingarm pivots?

[montmil]

I thought lubing the input splines the lazy way was so you DIDN'T have to bother the swingarm pivots?

You're right, Rob. But I have to replace a worn out U-joint boot, too. Also installing fresh rear brake shoes and new 10x2 O-rings on the brake cam shaft. Busy, busy...   Monte

[Barry]

Monte

You do have to remove the swinging arm pins. I don't remember having to slacken off the suspension units though.  I found it helpful to use a rope to pull back on the rear wheel in order to maintain a gap of 1" or so between the gearbox and engine. Just enough to clean and lube the splines. I think I supported the gearbox with a trolley jack. Also disconnected the wires to the sensor under the gearbox.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I would remove the bottom fasteners on the shocks, and remove the entire swingarm so you can work on the rear-end on the bench.

Then pull the transmission.  It's ready to come out!

[Ed Miller]

You only have to free the right shock, I think.

[Lucky_Lou]

At the risk of sounding stupid....whats the best lubricant...copperslip or something like that? my haynes manual is snowed in at work so i may do mine before the iceage ends.
Lou

[Barry]

Lou

Honda moly paste is the general recommendation but I used something you might just have ....moly gun grease. It had a high moly content and was very " stringy" which seemed like a good quality for not being rubbed off the splines.

This is not actually the stuff I have but sounds similar.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BISLEY-MOLY-GUN-GREASE-for-Airgun-Shotgun-Pistol-NEW_W0QQitemZ360132485936QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET?hash=item53d991a330

[nhmaf]

I loosened the upper shock bolts (maybe even the lower ones slightly?) so that the swingarm would smoothly/easily swing to the back after pulling the pivot pins.  You did disconnect the rear brake lever, too ?

It is quite easy to slide it all plenty far back to remove the transmission this way without any fuss - though I do remove the clutch arm at the back for the transmission before pulling the transmission out.

If you are replacing the U-joint, then it may be easiest to actually pull the swingarm off so you can work on it on the benchtop as Rob suggests

[Lucky_Lou]

Lou

Honda moly paste is the general recommendation but I used something you might just have ....moly gun grease. It had a high moly content and was very " stringy" which seemed like a good quality for not being rubbed off the splines.

This is not actually the stuff I have but sounds similar.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BISLEY-MOLY-GUN-GREASE-for-Airgun-Shotgun-Pistol-NEW_W0QQitemZ360132485936QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET?hash=item53d991a330

Thanks Barry aahh Bisley the ancesrtal home of shooters dont get em going nuf said.
Lou

[nhmaf]

That grease may work - but it sure seems pricey - 3 pounds 50 for only 50cc ?   Granted, one doesn't use alot on a firearm, but still this seems very pricey stuff to me for motorcycle/auto usage.

One concern though is the temperature rating of this Bisley grease - most people use a grease with a "drop point" of > 450 F and a very sticky grease is generally needed to achieve this.   I don't know if a grease that is intended not to bind up the delicate balance of a revolver pawl will withstand sustained exposure to the harsh environs of the airhead clutch bay.