Boxer Bolshie's '84 Restoration and Rant

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Today I wasn't able to do much because of three meetings, one physical therapy appointment, and of course work.  However, the major components I was able to remove where wheels and final drive.

What's left of the bike is now hanging from the rafters and I will hopefully finish stripping the main frame tomorrow (which is connected to the following questions).

My questions are:

1) What sized Allen wrench fits the fork crown?

I completely loosened the exhaust nuts free from the threads, then unbolted the four Allen screws on the support flange toward the muffler tips, lastly I unbolted the large bolt with bracket midway and near the centre stand.  Exhaust seems loose but isn't disconnecting from the threaded head connections.  

2) What do I have to do to knock the exhaust system off?

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Yesterday I worked on trying to remove the exhaust but after unbolting it from the frame and removing the exhaust nuts (which were much uglier than I had thought) I just couldn't wiggle it free from the heads.

Fukard up nuts and threads





But as I mentioned I was able to remove the final drive and of course found more spider webs

[montmil]

Oh, those are nasty threads for sure, Carl.

Perhaps some possibility for recovery. Did you not mention you had some spare exhaust nuts?

I might suggest using small jewelers files to attempt a partial clean up of the boogered threads close to the exhaust opening. Next, apply some valve grinding/lapping compound onto the stub threads and a touch on the threads of a good exhaust nut. See where we're going with this?

Gently work the exhaust nut onto the stub and make small small back and forth rotations. Maybe remove the nut and reapply fresh compound all around. There appears to be enough good threads remaining on the stub to secure the exhaust header in place.

This technique has been done before. Often, a new pair of header nuts must be factored into the repair costs. It certainly worked on one of my R65s. The header nut should spin freely the length of the threaded stub.

Good luck, Carl. Keep us in the info loop.

Monte  "If it ain't broke yet, we can fix that."

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Thanks Monte.  I fortunately do have a set of new rings that came in the sale of the bike and so will use those in the final build.  The nut with damaged threads will go in the garbage and I will use the one with good threads to use with your suggested technique.  When I was rebuilding my Subaru's engine I had to use a similar technique to fix the threads on the EGR valve.

Oh and I figure out what sized hex/Allen wrench I needed for the fork crown (10mm)

[Boxer_Bolshie]

I so freaking hurt but I got the engine and gearbox (kinda) out!  The tach is still connected to the gearbox with the cable running through the fork head which is too small to slide the tach through and so I am about to read more of the manual to figure out how to disconnect it from the gearbox.  

Alls I have left to do is the shifter pedal and foot rest, the brake pedal, one of the forks and the steering head (in the bicycle world we call this the fork crown so forgive me if I say that ever), and finally the swingarm.  All which I should be able to do tomorrow.



I also got the centre stand in...  Eventhough is was listed as used, it looks pretty new to me!

[Dave 2]

Hey Carl you are moving right along! Your Bolshie will sure be happy with all the work you are doing. I striped my frame down before I removed the Engine/Transmission, and it was a beast getting them out. When I put mine back together again I will have the wheels on. I think it will provide a more stable "platform" to wrestle the engine back into the frame. Any thoughts out there about this? I spoke with a couple more autobody guys about painting my LS. I continue to get "I really don't like to paint motorcycles, but I will" The only guy who actually had a business painting motorcycles got out of it last year. He said the cost of materials has gone up so much he couldn't charge enough (In Downeast Maine) to make a living Monday I will take all the parts to be painted to 2 or 3 shops and get estimates, and i hope a better sense of their work. BTW your new center stand does look new, good find [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] D2

[Boxer_Bolshie]

I had planned to strip it down keeping the wheels and centre stand on until very last but it just didn't turn out that way.  Some parts just didn't want to be separated from their home and are still clinging to it LOL!

And for the same reasons as you Dave, I plan to build it back up on it's wheels and "new" centre stand.  

BTW I got the stand on eBay for $50 (plus ship)!  Can you believe that! Especially when the rest of them were in worse shape and cost more!

Fortunately for me I have a friend who builds high end bicycles as a hobby (you can't make money as a hand builder) and has his own powder coating and oven system.  His first motorcycle was in 1984 and was a new R65, so he's familiar with mine.  He now has a couple of Ducatis and a KTM400 enduro and all this on a teacher's salary... and a few Trust dollars!  

He'll do my frame parts while another guy on the island who restores and paints classic and vintage cars will do my painted parts (eg tank and fenders) which will be my big expense.

Speaking of painting; I know the LS had black painted rims, what do you all think of that and what is your opinion of originally non painted wheels getting painted or powder coated?

[Dave 2]

Speaking of painting; I know the LS had black painted rims, what do you all think of that and what is your opinion of originally non painted wheels getting painted or powder coated?

I'm not aware that the LS came with black wheels, only white with  the Henna Red or silver/gray with the other colors. I'm sure one of our brethren will correct me on this point.  Anyway my wheels were pretty badly oxidized in spots. The photo just shows a patch of it on the lower right side of the photo. So I have decided to go with sand blasted and then powder coated wheels. As for the color I'm having him match the color of my fork slider. So the wheels and all frame related items will be the same color. I'm thinking Bultaco with the body  Yellow 8-) except for the rear fender and the dash panel which will remain Black. D2

[montmil]

Carl, if you have removed the bolt securing the negative (-) battery cable to the transmission, you should be able to work the tach cable out. Perhaps a bit of corrosion is hindering the removal. Try a shot of PB Blaster or similar. Jiggle the cable a bit while gently pulling up and out. It's a snug fit into the gearbox opening.

Monte

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Monte, yea I finally stopped being lazy and read my manual!  DUH

So finally I am down to the frame after picking up a 27mm and grinding it down on my grinder.



So here is today's progress in a collage.

[Boxer_Bolshie]

So I'm vacillating between having the tank and other painted but non frame parts painted their original black or another colour or colour scheme.  I'd love a chance to make this my customized paint job but it also depends on cost.  I love vintage colours and so if anyone has any suggestions and or pictures I'd LOVE recommendations!  

Thanks in advance!  

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Almost ready for the powdercoater!

[montmil]

Talk with your power coat jobber. You need to seal all the surface areas where bearing races will be installed. Remember, too, that the main frame grounding point "won't" if it's p'coated. You need bare metal. Same with other grounding points -and the Airheads have several. A thread chaser, in correct sizes, will be handy to have where the powder coating may need to be removed.

Better keep that frame warm n' dry in the house. I think I can hear sub-atomic rust particles forming right now...

BTW, Airheads did not have gloss black frames but that's no matter unless you plan on building a one-hundred point bike.

Monte

[Boxer_Bolshie]

Oh it's inside all warm and cuddly next to the bed so every time I wake up, it'll be the first thing I see in the morning!

So when you say that "Airheads did not have gloss black frames," were they flat black or satin?  I'm not planing to restore it back to it's original self and in fact hope to updated it with components considered a good upgrade.  

Which brings me to my next question, I plan to add some gusseting and lateral cross bracing but can anyone suggest bosses and brackets to tack onto the frame that I might need?

Here's an example of the bracing I'm planing on welding up.

[efadul]

I've been following this thread and am enjoying it very much.  
I am also restoring an '82 LS and your posts are very helpful.  Many thanks!!
Looking at the picture of the frame with the brace, tt appears that it might interfere with the gas tank and maybe the intake manifolds.

Best,
Ed