newbie

[montmil]

...One thing which I am not quite clear on is what to do about lubing the final drive splines. The manual states that the spline connection where the drive shaft connects with the final drive should be liberally greased.

Wow, boycie! When you do a little clean-up, you r-e-a-l-l-y do! Know you're excited about getting the R65 back on the road so do press on.

Regarding your question about drive splines, I think the manual is addressing the splines that mate the final drive to the rear wheel. Note the splines inside the rear wheel hub? These mate with the final drive and are often overlooked during routine maintenance.

Look closely and you'll see how the rear wheel hub splines pass thru a large oil seal as the rear wheel is drawn up during refit.

Honda's Moly 60 is an excellent choice for spline lube. The splines require only a light application as too much lube can sometimes be ejected into the brake shoe area... and as we all know, the rear brakes on the Airheads need all the help we can give 'em.

Monte

[Boycie1150]

Monte, yep, I have more than a little OCD in me when it comes to such things. I hate dirty bikes. I am currently polishing up the removal engine cases. They wont be shining like the forks legs, but they will be back to bright metal.

Re the spline question, yeah, I thought that might be what is meant. I am reading the CLymer manual as I type. In fact, it states that one should apply molygrease to the final drive (to wheel) splines, and also the drive shaft splines and shows a photograph of said drive shaft with an arrow pointing to the shaft.

Hmm, confused of England!! :-/

[montmil]

A wee bit of Moly-60 never hurt nuttin'.

Perhaps, in the case of the Clymer instructions, the moly grease is more of a preventative, re-assembly and "dry" start up suggestion... ?

Do with it what makes you feel good. Not wanting to stir the OCD waters too much.

BTW, bachelor buddy at work will wear nothing but plaid shirts, nothing but, ever... Did mention 'bachelor' didn't I?

Monte

[Boycie1150]

I guess yer right matey. I think I aint gonna worry about it too much. Never greased the splines in question on any of my previous Beemers, so I wont worry too much about it now.

Now then back to shiney shiney!!

[Boycie1150]

WEll, this week I have mostly been trying to get the bloody front brakes back together. Or more specifically, trying to bleed them from top to bottom. Bit of a bugger, I must say!!

I have bled the master cylinder, then the top hose, and then one of the lower hoses. Trouble is, I can't seem to  get the fluid to move into the lower hose. It seems as if the pumping of the lever is not actually pushing the fluid through anywhere near as well as I would expect. I don't want to have to spend previous budget money on a vacuum bleeding kit.

ANyone got any ideas, having perhaps done it before? I am reasonably happy that the master cylinder and associated seals are good.

Other than that, I have now got a new seal for the final drive to go back onto the swing arm, then I can get the back wheel back on, then I can clear out the garage, as I am instructed by the wife that I must do so as we are having a garage sale on Sunday. When I asked why we should sell the garage, she just looked at me funny and tutted

Next week should see an attempt on getting the motor running. Hurrah!!!, Mind you, just had a though and that is I need to get the tank sealed first. Might have to do that on Saturday. Either waym, its slowly coming together. All being well, I should be able to post some photos soon which show the thing in a greater state of reassembly than is currently the case. I guess there are only so many photos of bits of bike y'all can look at before you all lose the will to live [smiley=Oscar.gif]

Right, off to bed shortly as I am up early tomorrow. See what you can do regarding the brakes, good people [smiley=beerchug.gif]

 [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[Barry]

ANyone got any ideas, having perhaps done it before? I am reasonably happy that the master cylinder and associated seals are good.  

When I had the whole system drained I filled it from the bottom up through the bleed nipple using a large syringe. This worked very well on a single disk system. Twin discs would be more tricky if that's what you've got.

Another good idea when filling a rebuilt system is to push the pistons right back into the calipers to expel as much air as possible before you start.

[Boycie1150]

When I had the whole system drained I filled it from the bottom up through the bleed nipple using a large syringe. This worked very well on a single disk system.

Thats a good idea, i will try that tonight.

Another good idea when filling a rebuilt system is to push the pistons right back into the calipers to expel as much air as possible before you start.  

Done that already, as the system has been rebuilt with new seals in the calipers.

Ta muchly

[Barry]

Barry wrote on Yesterday at 20:24:
When I had the whole system drained I filled it from the bottom up through the bleed nipple using a large syringe. This worked very well on a single disk system.


Thats a good idea, i will try that tonight

If you do this you may get fluid leakage from around the bleed nipple threads.  I had to use a small amount of ptfe thread tape at the top of the threads.  It needs to be Kept well away from the nipple seat so as not to get any bits of tape in the system.

[Boycie1150]

Barry, tried your tip of using a syringe to fill from the bottom up. Worked a treat!! Well, at least it did after I found that the bloody system still wouldn't pressurise, stripped and cleaned the master cylinder and rebuilt that. Simples!!

THe master cylinder just needed a bit of TLC and the brakes are spot on now, especially with the braided hoses fitted. Seem to be really firm and look cool 8-)

Got a few more small jobs done like putting the seat lock back in and getting the final drive back in. Tomorrow looks like it mioght be the day to sort the fuel tank out and seal it.

So far, so good [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[Altritter]

[Lucky_Lou wrote 10/18/10:  John are you trying to start a riot !!!!!! Euro,s ....Euro,s over my dead body]

Lou, sorry it's been taken me so long to apologize—I should know better, having been in both the UK and the Bundesrepublik Deutschland long before either reunification or the Euro! I understand the sensitivity about the currencies, given our own problems with the dollar.  

[Boycie1150]

Here are some photos taken today. THe bike is starting to be rebuilt slowly, and I thought some might like to see the standard I am going for.

I have polished up the casings that I have been able to remove. I haven't gone mad, but I am happy with the result as they look waaaayy batter than the original finish. The contrast can bee seen in the difference between the polished parts and the rest of the casings.

I have rebuilt the front end, as I said, this is the result. Again, polished lowers, nice stainless hoses and cleaned up and rebuilt calipers.

The subframe has been repainted and the rear wheel cleaned up.

Just in the process of cleanign and painting brackets for the rear mud guard and then that can go back on. Then it will start to look like a proper motorcycle again!!  

[montmil]

I've long admired the old-style, rounded, aluminum air filter housing and the "low rider" enrichener lever.

Shiney! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Monte

[suecanada]

Boycie, just one wee thing I noticed that you might change...the pull-out hole at the end of the rear axle should probably be turned to face down a few degrees so that water will not be able to sit in there...a very small point from a very small mechanical mind!

[Boycie1150]

the pull-out hole at the end of the rear axle should probably be turned to face down a few degrees so that water will not be able to sit in there...a very small point from a very small mechanical mind!

Sue, you are switched on. Hadnt thought of that!!! However, the wheel will all be coming out again to change tyres etc, so I will bear that in mind.

I thank yew!!

[Vegasrandall]

Shiny aluminum looks really nice but it's not good to polish heat radiating surfaces. It lowers the transfer of the heat to the air because when you shine it you are reducing the surface area of the metal by removing the microscopic pitting. Fins on your heads should be left as cast,those wily germans could have made them shiny. But by casting the fins with a coarser casting sand it increases the heat transfer factor.