newbie

[Lucky_Lou]

the bike has in fact got twin discs at the front, which I think will make it 1981 onward.
For whoever asked where I am in the UK, I am in Northamptonshire.

When I can, I will post up some pics.

laters

Phil

Phil i have a 79 which has twin discs it seems there are quite a few from that period in the UK fitted as standard my brothers 81 has too.
im doing a big bike event in mid May at Market Harborough not a million miles from you if you fancy a brew at the Lucky Lou Saloon....be warned ill be wearing a big hat and tottin iron.....lol
Lou
ps the r65 is a thing of beauty full of grace if you want speed your in the wrong place.IMHO

[Dizerens5]

My 79 has the single disc but I do have a second caliper in a cardboard box. The previous owner didn't think it was necessary and never fitted it. Neither do I, so far - but maybe one day?

[Boycie1150]

Right then. Bit of an update. Yesterday, I trailered the Beemer back home from my Dads house. I have washed all the years of accumulated crap and dust off it and had a cursory look around it. It seems pretty clean. thankfully, Dad used to keep it covered in oil and stuff which has meant that the frame and metalwork generally is clean and tidy underneath. Good man 8-)

The brake calipers had to come off. The pistons are stuck in the bores, but I think that stripping them down and cleaning will sort this out.

The fuel tank was full of old petrol, and there is quite a bit of crap inside. I need to clean it out properly, and i hope that sealing it will be all that's needed. I don't see any evidence of real rust. The fuel cap has stuck in, so will need popping out using the trusted method of a rope through the handle, round ones shoulders, and PULL!! I have had to do this before, so it shouldn't be a problem.

I have sorted a shopping list of parts for it which isn't too horrendous. Just need to persuade the good lady wife to release some funds for me, and save me Christmas money!!

The really great thing is that I have been bikeless for the last there years, and it is sooo good to get my hands on another bike again. i am really grateful to Dad for him giving it to me. i hope that when it is back up and running again, I am able to take him out for a ride. i am sure he will be chuffed to bits with that.

When I get going, i will sort out some photos for them whats interested.

Cheers

Boycie

[Lucky_Lou]

Glad to hear your finally getting to grips with this bike...piccys soon please.Before you yank the fuel cap try a bit of penetating oil put a stud in a drill with hammer function stick a bit of thick plastic over the cap and vibrate away.. worked for me.
Failing that theres a small BMW logo on the cap, if you drill a small hole (2-3mm) down through the "M" you can put a self tapper down it which will lock up the mechanism and leave you with a working fuel cap.
Lou

[Boycie1150]

UPDATE!!!! Hooray!!!!!

It has been a while since my last post, I see, back in December last year. I have posted a picture of the bike having just brought it home and given it a wash. (sorry the picture is a bit big, forgot to reduce its size)

 Well, finally, things are moving on. I have got some funds together and the rebuild is started. I have just put a bloody great order in for shiny goodies, well various replacement parts!!! I started stripping things down and looking to see what will need to be replaced and what is fine. Bearing in mind this is a thirty year old bike, it is in bloody amazing condition.

Essentially, it appears as I first thought. Brakes are being stripped down and all the seals replaced, along with new tasty Goodridge hoses. I thought the calipers would be well clagged up, but in fact, they are very clean. I have had to break the two halves of each caliper apart to give them a good clean of old fluid, but there is little gumming up of the calipers and various chambers.

I need to sort the fuel tank out as it is rusty inside, as per usual,. Nothing too horrendous, nothing that some of the finest vinegar wont sort out, I am sure!!!

I need to get it started up soonest, so I can establish if there is any real problems with the engine, etc. I don't anticipate anything, really, but you never know. It certainly is not worn out at only 10 1/2 k miles. Hopefully seals and stuff will be fine.

Ultimately, the bike is going to be put to use as a commuting machine and for pleasure at weekends. I see no reason why not, even given its age. It isn't going to get  thrashed, I am too old for that nonsense now. Well, maybe every so often 8-)

I think my Dad will be well chuffed when he sees the finished product.

I will be getting some photos uploaded in due course, so hopefully I aint gonna bore anyone to death!!!

Already this site has been of enormous help. I have done quite a bit of reading and various jobs will be made easier with the specialist knowledge of the machine  that I have found here. Cheers, all.

Until the next time........

Phil

[montmil]

Oooo... Blingy! Me likey.

Early style air box but later Bings carbs. Likely a points ignition in the ol' bean can, too. And the glare from those beautiful headers and muffs... sunglasses, anyone?

Gosh, even the rust-free OEM Boge shocks are still holding the fender off the rear tire. Sweet.

Love the fuel tank hanging on the garden gate. Yard art for now?

Get busy, Phil. Let's see if the old girl will make some steam.

And do check in a bit more often, Lou misses you.

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Phil,

If you ever plan to ride in the rain, you may want to replace those spark plug caps & wires.
NGK is my favorite.

When you unplug the wires from the coils, UN-solder the metal caps that goes in the coil and save them for your new set of wires.  A much better way of doing business than the crimp-on type cap.

[suecanada]

Wow, you have been busy. The bike looks really clean and shiny. Your dad sure must have oiled it before storage all right!
Good work! POR 15 may be an option for relining the gas tank if the vinegar reveals rust inside. WD40 the final drive's filler/breather cap. I think I can see that it is raised up which is a good thing. Saves a bunch of oil spewing onto the wheel rims if it can breath. There may be O-rings on the brake actuating arm which goes through the final drive and they may need replacing...easy job while sorting the rear wheel details. The arm just pulls out from the leftside.

[Boycie1150]

Believe it or not, the condition of the bike in the admittedly crap mobile phone photo is as it is. All I had done at that point was wash it. The shiny silencers, (or muffs, as I see them referred to above, you DON'T want to know the english variation in meaning for that word!!) are stainless Keihan ones, I think. Dad bought them roundabout 1984 and never fitted them.

Early style air box but later Bings carbs. Likely a points ignition in the ol' bean can, too. And the glare from those beautiful headers and muffs... sunglasses, anyone?

Gosh, even the rust-free OEM Boge shocks are still holding the fender off the rear tire. Sweet.

As far as the shocks go, they are original and the chrome is literally perfect, as appears to be the damping. I think I can get replacement bushes which have perished a bit. If not, then I will replace, although I would rather not at this stage. I want to keep it as original as possible.
Montmil, your comment about the early style airbox and later carbs is an interesting one. The bike is totally original, as it came out of the shop. It was built in July 1980 and nothing has been changed at all. I have done some checking and I s'pose it will have points ignition which I don't really like. I think I will probably put up with them, but eventually convert to electronic ignition. Mind you, I don't recall Dad ever having had problems with the contact system, so we shall see how we go.

Tonight I painted the subframe. It wasn't bad, but has definitely benefitted from a tarting up. Ultimately, I ain't intending to have the bike back up to fresh out of the box condition, I am not too concerned about that. It will look very clean, especially bearing in mind its age, but it will be functional and ridden often.

AS ever, TTFN

[montmil]

...The shiny silencers, (or muffs, as I see them referred to above, you DON'T want to know the english variation in meaning for that word!!) ...

Me likey shiny Muffs! [smiley=happy.gif]

Monte

[Boycie1150]

boycie wrote on Yesterday at 14:38:21:
...The shiny silencers, (or muffs, as I see them referred to above, you DON'T want to know the english variation in meaning for that word!!) ...

Me likey shiny Muffs!

Monte

Um.....shiny muffs, now there's a thing! 8-)

[suecanada]

Would be kinda odd! Interesting the differences in terms and their colloquialisms. Take those Adel clamps for instance and jubilees.
Anyway, like LRB my R65LS, it came needing really just a good polish!

[Boycie1150]

Well, today and yesterday, I have been mostly stripping down the forks, cleaning them up and replacing the seals. Pretty much everything else in the forks is as new, so well chuffed. The sliders have been polished to within an inch of their life, so they are now gleaming. I invested in a polishing mop kit which fits into an electric drill. It has worked wonders with the alloy.

I have cleaned out the petrol tank which is in reasonable nick inside. I think I will still need to put in new sealer though.

Now then, a question, if you please? The filler cap is bugging me somewhat. I am aware that when the cap is locked, it simply rotates, which stops anyone removing it. When it is unlocked, it has a catch system within the cap which allows the whole thing to then be unscrewed. Is it possible to dismantle the cap to any degree? Mine is not behaving as it should. It seems that although the lock can be turned in the normal way, it won't actually lock, i.e. the cap will still be able to be unscrewed. In addition, I don't seem to be able to screw the cap tight before the catch system clicks through. Crap explanation, sorry!! Also, I renewed the cap gasket, which sits between the cap and the filler neck to prevent fuel escaping. The cap now sits 5 mill proud of the tank. Basically the gasket is of a different design to the original. Might have to find an alternative.  

Any road up, things are generally going well. The forks came apart easily with no buggering about. Next job is to dismantle the head bearings and re-grease. Then the transmission needs splitting from the engine to grease the input splines.

So quite a bit to to yet, but nothing too onerous. I hope to have it up and running by the end of May. It's my birthday thereabouts, so it would be a great pressie to myself to be able to ride it then. Fingers crossed 8-)

Laters

[Bob_Roller]

The fuel cap, is a lousy design .

If you rotate the cap until it ratchets, one of these days, it will just start spinning and you won't be able to get it off without a bit of a struggle .

Seems like the cap was designed when a lot of auto fuel caps would ratchet when they were tightened enough, not so on the BMW motorcycle caps, they were never designed to be tightened until they ratchet .

A common fix is to drill a hole in the cap, there are several methods, one is drill a hole in the top of the cap itself and then install a long countersunk screw to lock all of the internal parts together .

Another method is to drill into one of the holes in the threaded area of the cap and then place a pin into the hole to lock everything together .

[Boycie1150]

Things are a'progressing! I started to rebuild the front end, having stripped cleaned and replaced various parts on the forks and brakes. I have polished up the fork sliders as can be seen in the photo. Well kind of, they actually are shinier than is obvious.

I have stripped out the rear drive and lubed the input spline on the transmission. Easy job really, one that I have never done before, but now I know how easy it is, I will do every year.

One thing which I am not quite clear on is what to do about lubing the final drive splines. The manual states that the spline connection where the drive shaft connects with the final drive should be liberally greased. Howsoever, as far as I can see, this area is lubricated by the final drive oil, so I am not sure why it should be greased as well. Anyone care to enlighten me? In any case, I need to get a new gasket before I can replace the final drive back on to the swingarm.

Other than that, I need to seal the fuel tank and then get the engine running. So, provided the engine fires up with no problems, the big jobs are just about done.

Looking good and really looking forward to getting it back on the road and ridden. Over three and a half years I have not been riding, so I am champing at the bit to get on.

Cheers chaps and chappesses