R65 Resurrection

[TomHoldom]

Also can anyone recommend any replacement (braided SS) hose for the front brake (1 x 12,5 cm and 2 x 19,5 inches) - motobins that would cost around £75 - Sounds pricey - anyone know of another place to buy (in europe).
Should I be installing copper sealing washer at every junction, or just at the master cylinder?
Thanks

[Tony Smith]

I installed the HEL lines sold by Motobins, but bear in mind that the set I bought that was on special at the tiem was for a K100.

I am super impressed and would pay the premium for HEL lines, the angle adjusters are very, very clever.

The copper washers go on each side of EVERY banjo fitting.

[TomHoldom]

Is is essentially every junction of the hose requires a copper washer (I don't think I have banjo fittings) or is the copper washer needed because of a banjo fitting?

[BPT]

I didn't see any marked as Hel on their site.  Is there a choice or is Hel just the ones they use that have no name?  I did see Venhill listed as a specific brand.

[Bob_Roller]

Here's a link to what banjo fittings look like, in case you're not sure what you have .


https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/cycle-brake-line-kits/aprilia-rs-250-front-brake-line-kit.html

[TomHoldom]

I hadn't looked closely before, but I see know that the hoses from motobins do have these banjo connections - will they connect up with the existing metal pipes. The banjo fittings look like they'll come of perpendicular to the line of the hose. My current set up connects directly in line (hose and pipe).....sorry if I'm being dumb.

[Bob_Roller]

No, banjo fittings will not work with the stock metal pipes at  the caliper area .
I had this issue when I changed the OEM rubber lines in '91, for my '81 R65, everything I saw and ordered, had banjo fittings .

I was going on vacation in the southern California area, an aftermarket parts supplier ( Luftmeister) told me to stop by with my brake lines and he could make up a set while I waited, only took 15 minutes to fabricate the three lines I needed .
Don't know if you have a company in the EU area that could perform this work .

[TomHoldom]

I have put about 18 litres of 3,5% acetic acid into my tank and am turning and agitating occasionally to help the process of cleaning out the old crap inside before I line with POR 15.
I've read various advice on how long this process should continue - would 7 days be good?
Also, I'm assuming as this is a fairly dilute solution that any drip I get on the external paintwork can just be wiped off without the need for excessive cleaning and neutralisation - is that right, or do I need to clean off more thoroughly.

[TomHoldom]

Hello again - I have to get a km speedo as part of the import process of my uk R65 to france.
I've found one which looks in pretty good condition, but its for a R65/7 so a little different (see photo)
Has anyone any experience of fitting this type of dials onto a R65 from 1980 (which also has the ignition key included into the plastic surround)?

[Bob_Roller]

The instrument cluster you have a picture of, is from a monoshock R65 .

If you look at the bottom of the instrument face,your original speedometer will have something like W=1357, or some other number, you need to match the new speedometer that has the same number, or the speedometermay have a significant inaccuracy .

[ged in oz]

I have put about 18 litres of 3,5% acetic acid into my tank and am turning and agitating occasionally to help the process of cleaning out the old crap inside before I line with POR 15.

Also, I'm assuming as this is a fairly dilute solution that any drip I get on the external paintwork can just be wiped off without the need for excessive cleaning and neutralisation

I treated my tank a few weeks ago with a similar process, although my kit used phosphoric acid rather than acetic acid for the rust conversion step. The other step is a degreaser. The actual liner is impossible to remove once it cures, so you need to make sure that it doesn’t contact any of the painted surfaces because you won’t get it off.

My Klm R65 speedo (‘83) is coded W793 on the front face, which is that same as the one you’ve posted so you might be ok as long as the mounts and electrical wiring connections etc are all the same?

[Bob_Roller]

I have no idea, if the monoshock instrument cluster will fit or not .

I relined three fuel tanks, 2 R65 and one Moto Guzzi .

I found 9% acid vinegar, it took around 3 weeks to get all the rust out, the tanks I had, looked like an old exhaust system inside, but I did get all the rust removed .

Only issue I had, was rinsing the vinegar out of the tank with water, I got flash rusting .

I used phosphoric acid to etch the tank before using POR 15 and used denatured alcohol to rinse the acid, going on 10 years and no issues with the lining coming out .

Only problem area, was the drain tube from the filler area, it was difficult to get that tube covered completely .

The POR 15 sealant is very strong smelling I would do it in an area with good ventilation . 

[ged in oz]

If you look at the bottom of the instrument face,your original speedometer will have something like W=1357, or some other number, you need to match the new speedometer that has the same number, or the speedometermay have a significant inaccuracy .

I wonder if anyone has come across a listing of the specs for all these speedos and codes Bob? I’ve got an R45 speedo that I’m going to try out, just to see. My original speedo doesn’t have a functioning odometer.

I treated my BSA M21 tank with a liner solution about 25 years ago and it was very rusty internally. I’ve never had a carb blockage since. It’s a pretty effective treatment.

[TomHoldom]

Thanks for all the advice.
My existing speedo has a value of W = 1276, which means I need to find a speedo in kms with a W = 793 to give the correct reading.
I expect its going to be simpler to replace like with like - my plastic surround is a bit knackered - see photo -Do you think this is going to be possible to glue (got some J-B Weld)? For cleaning this surround just soap and water?

For the tank, I'll leave soaking for a little longer - there's no rust, just flaky lining which need to come out.

[ged in oz]

Hmm, not pretty is it.... You could glue it, (you would need to reinforce the back side of the break) but it’s never going to perfect. It’s probably a bit too far gone.

I’ve been looking for one as well for my bike and although there is nothing on eBay presently, there are a few of them turning up in other places. They are one of the first parts to get discarded by custom builders, and there seems to be no shortage of those, so a nice one will turn up sooner or later.

You could probably glue that one back up and press it into service until something else turns up. Superglue would be my weapon of choice.