R65 Resurrection

[Tony Smith]

A Gel type superglue would be my suggestion.

[MrTall100]

On my 1980 R65 I used the stainless hoses listed on motorbins as they are a direct replacement for the standard rubber hoses.

The top one is dependent on handlebar type/height, I would also change the small metal pipes as well if funds allow.

I have the twin disk set up and Brembo calipers.

Andy

[TomHoldom]

Hello all
My latest motobins order has just arrived which included new brake hoses and overhaul kits for my 38mm Brembo calipers, but I'm concerned I may have got the wrong kit because the size of the seal is larger than my piston - it slips over with a 0,5mm of play...? Can this be possible (I haven't tried inserting them into the cylinder yet in case I need to sell on). However the other components are correct: dust seals have the same reference (20 2246 10) and bolts fit and are the same length.
Any thoughts on whether I have correct kit?
Thanks, Tom

UPDATE: Motobins have concerned confirmed that this is normal.

[TomHoldom]

I have also completed the relining of the tank and am now getting the necessary flow out of my petcock; took it for a little spin (just up to second gear on a private track) which showed plently of adjustments to be made, but the engine was running 
Later in the day I tried to start up again (I'm quite excited and show everyone who visits...), but not firing at all suddenly.
After I few minutes I noticed that one of the spark plug cables was loose, and realised that it had come disconnected from its ignition coil. I reconnected it, but still nothing.

Could trying to start with this cable disconnected caused electrical damage?
I've checked, and I am still getting a spark on both sides (though the plug was a little sooty)

Any potential diagnoses appreciated

[Barry]

Could trying to start with this cable disconnected caused electrical damage?

Without reading all through the thread I'm assuming this is a early model with points ignition.

Running an ignition coil open circuit is potentially damaging because it allows the coil to develop it's maximum HT voltage which can lead to insulation breakdown.  The risk of damage is less though on a points ignition.  Another factor is the battery voltage will have been pulled down to 10 volts or so while cranking the engine which puts less stress on the coil compared with pulling a plug lead on a running engine where it could be 14 volts.

The probability is no damage has been done.  Lets put it this way, I accidently cranked the engine with open circuit HT leads about 10 years ago and it's still running fine on the same coils.   

[mrclubike]

  unfortunately I have the 36mm piston so I set of seals will set me back £42,60 (before post....!)
Next issue is adjusting the carbs - is this possible without the proper kit?
Any information / guidance on this would be greatly appreciated.

If you have 36 mm pistons you have the wrong kit

You need this kit

[tiggum]

With regard to the messages above, I bought the caliper repair kits from Bob's BMW in Jessup, Maryland.  Ordered by phone with my handy-dandy VISA; they were here within one week, because another part I ordered at the same time had to be sourced out of the BMW warehouse. Costs were as shown on the BMW fiche they have on-line (can't remember the cost now).

I also learned that their policy is that if you are ordering at least $100 worth of parts, the shipping is free.  On a later order, I ordered on a Thursday morning and the parts were here in Nashville, TN, in my mailbox by Saturday afternoon (they ship by Fed Ex and then the ground delivery is by US Mail).  Best parts service I have ever gotten.....

[TomHoldom]

  unfortunately I have the 36mm piston so I set of seals will set me back £42,60 (before post....!)
Next issue is adjusting the carbs - is this possible without the proper kit?
Any information / guidance on this would be greatly appreciated.

If you have 36 mm pistons you have the wrong kit

You need this kit

Hello MrClubike - in fact I had initially thought it was 36mm as I was trying to measure without removing the piston, but once removed I saw it was 38mm - Motobins have confirmed a little play is normal before the seal is inserted into the groove - so looks like I've got the right kit.......

[TomHoldom]

hello again,
I'm still struggling to get my 1979  R65 to start again (or even fire).
Here's a quick recap of where I am:
Bike sat unused for 12 years under cover, so over the last few months I've slowly been getting things back in shape.
So far:
1/ tank re-lined and petlock cleaned out
2/ carburetors cleaned  / rebuilt
3/ Front brakes re-built (including replacement of old circular master cylinder with square model, new pipes, piston seals).
4/ new battery
I had the engine running again after rebuidling the carbs, but before re-lining the tank, but obviously the fuel supply quickly blocked again at the petlock filter.

Then on Monday after re-lining the tank (and letting it dry for 4 days), I had the engine running ok for a good 10 mins (riding up and down a private track), but later that day the bike would not start - and this is where I am stuck....
ideas of where to start my search appreciated.

So far I have checked fuel supply to carbs which is good, and the floats appear to be closing off the flow at the correct height (parallel with carb body).
I have checked that the spark plugs are sparking.

but I'm not sure what to do next.
I'm thinking I may need to take the carbs apart again to check whether any crud got pulled through the petlock filter during the couple of times I had it running between rebuilding the carbs and re-lining the tank...

[wilcom]

but I'm not sure what to do next.

Before I tore the carbs apart I would squirt a little fuel in the inlets to see if you can get a pop or two. This would prove you have enough spark to fire the mixture.

Remember that these are two little separate motors hooked to the same shaft. To have both carbs go silent in the same fashion and at the same time is long odds, if it isn't caused by a common fuel feed.

[Bob_Roller]

Start simple, is the ' KILL ' switch in the OFF position ??

[TomHoldom]

Before I tore the carbs apart I would squirt a little fuel in the inlets to see if you can get a pop or two. This would prove you have enough spark to fire the mixture.

Hello wilcom, I tried as you suggested, and didn't get very conclusive results, but it appears to me I may be having a problem with the quality of the spark.
This is what I observed after adding a teaspoon of fuel to each carb (tested separately)

Left cylinder - no pop
Right cylinder - a couple of pops, then nothing.
On removing the plugs directly after the test there was a little smoke which came from the left cylinder (which I assume means the left cylinder fired?).
Then tested the left spark - and no spark.....
Any ideas?

fitting instrument surround
On a separate issue, I've managed to find a better condition instrument surround, and need some advice on fitting. Specifically how to engage the tabs on the underside which engage somehow with the bracket which bolts onto the handlebar mounting (the bracket which also holds the front brake hose) - see photo

I bought from the same guy a speedo in km (with the correct W value) and a complete front light which were both apparently off a 1979 R65.
The speedo looks ok (apart from a slightly worrying rattle...), but the light to larger than mine. This light has a 185mm diameter - see photo - does anyone know what bike this may be from?

[mrclubike]

If you have a week spark
First
Check for good battery  Positive  at the Green/Blue wire at the coil during cranking
check the wire between the coils

Check the spark plug wires
I think they are 1000 ohm caps plus solid core wires
 

check for corrosion in the   connectors in the ignition system
 
 
If all looks good Change the Points And Condenser

[Bob_Roller]

The first generation bikes, 79-80 have contact breaker ignition systems from the factory and two ignition coils .

I suggest after you check for corrosion, do a resistance check of the coil circuits .

I mentioned before, the main grounding point for all the bikes circuits, are at the forward ignition coil mounting bracket, it's not uncommon the clamp cracks  and causes electrical issues .

[TomHoldom]

hello again.
since my last post the bike has started once and after 4 days of not firing at all.
On that one occasion it stared first time and idled perfectly (unfortunately I could take it for a spin as my front brake was disassembled).
Since then its been almost nothing again (apart from one or 2 pops)
Your right Bob_Roller, my bike still has the 2 separate coils .

I have checked the connections which look ok, and had a go at checking the coils:
For the primary resistances I'm getting 1,7 ohms, for the secondary I'm finding it difficult to get a connection - on one a got a reading of 6,54 K.Ohms, but nothing on the other - though this may be due to it being difficult to get a good connection with my probes as I'm trying to poke into the end of the coil .....or a problem with one of the coils...?

You'll see from the photos they're located a little strangely - one of the brakets seems to have broken at some point and the coil is held on with cables ties - this (perhaps unsurprisingly) is the coil I'm not getting a secondary reading from.

There's also a loose cable which could be some to do with my problems (see photos)