Upper Fork Tube Plug easy-out

[montmil]

 [smiley=clap.gif] Woot!

Pretty Wife rolled outta the garage/shop at 0600 hours this Wednesday morning. Heading outta Texas for three whole days to visit her momma. Took her sister with her. What to do, what to do...

Been wanting to disassemble the front forks on the '81 R65 for a basic inspection and service. Kept putting it off 'cause of that danged Upper Fork Tube Plug. That's a 3-handed job if there ever was one. I usually use an 8mm Allen socket and a hefty impact driver to push the plug down and hold it by leaning on it. Uncomfortable and there's always the fear of that big snap ring flying off to Dog knows where.

Found a solution. Used a small, 3-jaw puller. 2-jaw would be better but I had to dance with the girl I brung. Photo is pretty much self-explanatory. Much easier to push down on that snap ring, get it semi-vertical and fish it out with needlenose pliers.

Now back out to do the other fork leg.

[D Mann]

Great idea, thanks for the tip.

[suecanada]

Boy Monte I remember the contortions to do that job with strong Derek leaning on whatever we had contrived to push down on that top bit. Derek is not overly happy to help me either as he hates the bikes. So this solution will be a big help. Thanks!
My front fork drain bolt (10mm tiny) got a bit stripped years ago and has been holding in there for at least 3 years without leaking with silicone sealant and some other gunk covering the bolt and probably in it's threads too. Is there any problem with wrapping that bolt's threads with a bit of plumber's tape...the type that is oil resistant (yellow colour)? Ya see I really should be changing the fork oil but haven't because i don't want to open the flood gates. Let sleeping dogs lie approach...

[montmil]

My front fork drain bolt (10mm tiny) got a bit stripped years ago and has been holding in there for at least 3 years without leaking with silicone sealant and some other gunk covering the bolt and probably in it's threads too. Is there any problem with wrapping that bolt's threads with a bit of plumber's tape...the type that is oil resistant (yellow colour)? Ya see I really should be changing the fork oil but haven't because i don't want to open the flood gates. Let sleeping dogs lie approach...

Certainly couldn't hurt to try the wrap. Or after draining the fork oil, you could easily tap the drain hole for a short  bolt the next size up. I believe the bolt has a fine thread. Put some heavy grease on the tap to catch the minimal amount of 'chips' and you're good to go. Fresh crush washer, of course.

[nhmaf]

Those bearing pullers have more uses than many give them credit for!

[Barry]

I have a method that enables me to do this single handed but it's probably not as easy as Monte's.

I insert an Allen key in the fill screw and then press down on the top of the plug against the main spring pressure with a large screw driver. Once the plug has been depressed enough I rotate the Allen key so that it jams underneath the handler bar holding the plug in the depressed position. The Allen key has a rubber sleeve on it to prevent it from slipping out from under the bar.  I then have both hands free to remove the C clip.  Works like a charm on low Euro bars but might not on US bars.

[montmil]

I have a method that enables me to do this single handed but it's probably not as easy as Monte's.

Just shows to go ya there's more'n one way to skin a cat. Good idea, Barry.  [smiley=beer.gif]

[Oconner]

With all the recent talk about forks, I am motivated to do my first fork oil change. On the LS do I have to remove the fairing or can one do the deed with out removal?

[montmil]

With all the recent talk about forks, I am motivated to do my first fork oil change. On the LS do I have to remove the fairing or can one do the deed with out removal?

Another LS owner can answer the fairing removal or not question.

Have a small cafe-ish fairing and after-market headlight brackets on the '81 but did a work-around with it. I do know that you'll need to remove the handlebars. For my R65s, I lay old towels across the front of the fuel tank and rest the loose bars on top of the toweling.

[Barry]

I would imagine you have to remove the instrument surround/crash pad on an LS to get access to the fill plugs just as you have to on a a stock R45/65.

[Tony Smith]

Certainly couldn't hurt to try the wrap. Or after draining the fork oil, you could easily tap the drain hole for a short  bolt the next size up. I believe the bolt has a fine thread. Put some heavy grease on the tap to catch the minimal amount of 'chips' and you're good to go. Fresh crush washer, of course.

Aside from being very short there is nothing special about the thread of the for drain bolt. I would be inclined to use a thread repair system such as "helicoil" to effect the repair (3 of the 4 R65 fork legs in my custody have had this done to them.

[montmil]

Tony brings up a factoid regarding fitting a helicoil to the fork drain hole and I missed this point when responding to Sue. The tap that comes with the helicoil kit or the one from your tool box, may prove unuseable unless the fork's innards are removed to provide adequate depth clearance. Perhaps a bottoming tap with the correct thread would work with the damping gear is still in place? Personally, I'd want to remove the fork lower's guts and be able to completely flush out any accumulated swarf that may settle to the bottom of the leg.

[suecanada]

Actually I had a helicoil in there and it just came out with the next oil change all broken, IF I remember carefully. No innards had been removed at the time the helicoil went in. The oversize bolt has been recommended but I may try the tape and sealant again.

[Barry]

I break all the rules and use an O ring instead of a washer on the fork drain screws. What that does is ensure you can't over tighten the screws because if you do the O ring will just squirm out of place. Been doing this for 7 years and screws never come loose and they never leak.