Replacement key blanks

[EGRG]

Hi All:
I went ahead and lost the only key to my LS!
I personally feel that my wife and daughter are cohorts in their wicked scheme. But it is my fault for not having a hidden replacement.
Is there someplace I can order key blanks so that I can have a local locksmith grind it down to my switch?
My original key did not open the seat lock nor handlebar lock so that I feel the original ignition switch was replaced.

[Bob_Roller]

You can get blanks quite easily at a locksmith shop .

The ones I have are Ilco SR61N .

Without a key, or key code, I don't know how you're going to get a replacement made .

[wilcom]

Is there someplace I can order key blanks so that I can have a local locksmith grind it down to my switch?

I lost the key to my 79. I took my switch and a fresh blank to 3 different key shops and none of them were able to cut a key for my switch.

I ended up purchasing a used ignition switch and key from the list to get back on the road, what a pain it was. Many hours and days spent solving a problem that ended up being unslovable

[montmil]

The ILCO Y61 is also a usable key blank. Same key style for the '83 R65 and the '78 R100S.

The ILCO blank is plated brass, not steel.

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
The blanks are available through BMW dealers either as the strait rigid one or the plastic cushioned pliable version.
Grinding a key to a lock one can't dismantle is quite impossible. If your key had been the same for the seat and tank, they may had had luck making a key for the seat and then try to make it work for the switch...
I bet you'll be left with the set of locks Motobins sells... On the other hand, Christmas is close....

[wilcom]

3 different key shops and none of them were able to cut a key for my switch.  

I had a steel blank........ that could have been too hard to impression a key. If you could find a blank out of softer metal they might be able to impression a key from your old switch

[Barry]

I read someplace that blanks are available in brass as well as steel and also that the a BMW can provide keys if you have the lock code. Is the code stamped on the lock ?  It may seem no help if you don't have even one key but there is a way of reading the key code from a key by measuring the key carefully. If you can get inside the lock it may be possible to figure out the code using this measurement technique. I've had some success with this on car locks but never tried an airhead lock. here's a link.  http://www.stephenbottcher.net/BMW/keys.htm

I'm very fortunate in having all 3 original keys. They say you should bolt a spare one in a hidden place on the bike but I can't think of anywhere secure except for under the seat or under the tank.... and you need a key to get in there.

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
Last time I asked, in France, they told me this service was not available any more for bikes this old (the key system has changed since).
But, on the other hand, my BMW dealer says that oil filters are not available any more ... So I wonder if I should trust him  :-/
You may have luck asking a decent dealer...
By the way, there are no number stamped on locks (on mine... ). The key number was delivered as a sticking tag with the original set of keys and you were told to store it in a safe place in case you need .........  

[EGRG]

Well I ordered some blanks from motorcycle keys.com
He kindly included a spacing and depth guide to help my locksmith with filing or grinding.
Thanksgiving delay will ship saturday.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Just in case it is helpful at all, here is Duane Ausherman's page on keys:
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/keys/index.htm

He has some additional links at the bottom, and even tells what the key code means - if you have the code...

[montmil]

In a prior post, I had provided a source for late 60's to 1994 Airhead key blanks. Eric Johnson at http://Motokeys.com is a good source for the plated brass Ilco Y61 blanks.

Bob Roller mentioned the Ilco SR61N as another Airhead key blank.

This morning, I rode the 1978 R100S to a full service locksmith shop and had the man cut my Ilco Y61 blank to match the R100S's tatty old key. The new key worked, as Lucky Lou would say, "Sweet as a nut".

The gentleman showed me the Ilco SR61N as Bob mentioned. It was a little shorter in overall length which might keep my new key from getting bent. The R100S has the ignition switch on the left-side headlight ear attach point.

"Cut me one of those, too", says I. Plugged it in but it'd didn't turn on the ignition switch. Huh?

Check the photo. The Ilco Y61 is the key on top. Slightly longer than the Ilco SR61N shown below.

The problem was quickly noticed by the locksmith. The SR61N was not going all the way into the ignition switch. Note the red area in the photo: This 'ledge' -on the key blank- had to be cut away to permit the full entry of the key and correct alignment of key to tumblers.

If you plan on using the SR61N as a replacement key, remember this information and use it if your new key does not work in your particular ignition switch. As always, YMMV.

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[Bengt_Phorqs]

Hey Monte, cut one of those for me too.  Just in case you lose your key somewhere and I have to come help you out.  ":>)

Good information on these keys.  I need to get an extra for my airheads.

[NC Steve]

Don't know if he still has any, but our very own Justin B used to to sell blanks on Ebay, both folding and solids.
That's how I stumbled onto this board to begin with some years back!

[k_enn]

Can't talk about the ignition keys specifically on our bikes, but a good professional locksmith may be able to help even if you don't have a key.  I had one do this once on my house door.  He will need to remove and disassemble the lock cylinder.  Often, you need the key to do this, but a good locksmith may be able to "pick" his way through that step.  Once he is able to disassemble the lock cylinder, he should be able to examine the "pins" in the lock to determine their size and the needed cut for the key ( i.e, does the pin correspond to a 4, 2 or other number cut).  He should then be able to fabricate a key for you.  

While he is at it, he should be able to key all locks the same (e.g., seat and fork to match ignition).   If you have the keys for those locks, he will only need to get the key code, and recode the ignition lock for that code by replacing the pins.  

My recommendation is to talk with a good locksmith to decide what he can do for you and what is the best way to go.  

k_enn

[EGRG]

Well I´m  finally riding again.
Thanks for all the help.

I would like to share the steps involved.
I received the ILCO Y61 blanks from motorcyclekeys.com
Removed the ignition switch and took the unit to the locksmith.
After messing up one key blank he promptly said that he could not make the key being the switch a sealed unit.
I got back to my car and started immediately to disassemble the switch.
With a thin pry tool or straight screwdriver one must gently pry open the tabs that hold the back of the switch to its body.
One must open slowly as three of the tiniest springs like to jump out and head directly to the area between the seat and console of your car. Also a brass pivot contact will become loose.
On the side of the contact assembly you will find a very small single ball bearing that presses into another larger spring. This spring and ball provide the feedback on turning your key to the different positions.
A plastic base for the springs and contacts can be removed from the metal body to reveal the locking cylinder mechanism that is held in place by a plastic keyed washer.
This I then gave to the locksmith who:
 Removed the cylinder from the body of the switch from the key side.
 Inserted a blank key and, to my horror, grabbed his mallet, and WACKED (not once but two and three times!!) the pins into the key blank to mark the position of the key cuts.
He grabbed a triangular file and filed away with UTTER abandon all over the key.
He WACKED
I WINCED
He Filed
It worked!!

Now it was my turn to reassemble.
I cleaned the 30 year old grease crud and re lubed with electric contact grease.
Carefully put everything back together.
It is easy as all parts have only one way to fit.
Then bent back the tabs on the switch body with a needle nose pliers.

It is not perfect but how precise can a Wack be?

Again thanks for all your input!!