Clutch Removal Question

[Dave 2]

Hi There, I'm trying to remove my clutch "assembly", So far I have wedged a small block of wood against the Housing Cover, I the removed the six bolts that secure the clutch to the Flywheel. The clutch shows no intention of giving up easily :-? I then decided to spray PT Blaster freely trying to get in between the stuck pieces...after an hour of soaking the clutch still is not responding. Do any of you have any ideas as to what I should try to do? Thank You as always [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] D2

[tvrla]

If the cover isn't separating from the flywheel, it must be corrosion at the union of those two parts. I've never run into that problem. But I have run into corrosion often, and there are many tricks - heat, cold cycles, penetrating oil (acetone/ATF supposedly THE best), vibration (not pounding), sheer forces - like trying to slide rather than pry.

It'll break loose, just be ready to catch it when it does. Or perhaps thread some twine through it and fasten to the frame.

[Lucky_Lou]

One trick i find usefull is to cut the head off an 8mm bolt put it in a hammer drill and aply to the unmovable object with a dose of gas oil or WD40 it usualy works.
Lou

[Dave 2]

Thanks for the good info, I don't have a hammer drill so I'll just apply more solvent and try to slide it off and just keep at it. D2

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I would [size=16]IMMEDIATELY[/size] replace three of the screws (every-other one) and screw them down until there is only 1mm or so of play in them.  That way, when the cover does release, it will be doing so in a safe environment.  Right now you have a ticking time bomb.

[nhmaf]

+1 with Rob - ya gotta be a bit careful as that diaphragm spring is pushing against things some - while it won't pop the carrier/cover plate off in a way to kill you, it could still cause alot of pain or broken fingers if it decides to let go and your fingers are in there.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Oh, and after you replace the 3 screws, try tapping on the clutch assembly with a small plastic hammer.

[Dave 2]

THANK YOU FOR THE WARNING ABOUT THE CLUTCH, My ignorance can be a hazard to my health I did not realize or failed to understand from Clymer the  dangerous nature of the beast. I'll go put those 3 bolts back right now. D2

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

And if you have plans to pull the flywheel (or clutch carrier - I'm not sure what year bike we are talking about...) - DON'T FORGET TO BLOCK THE CRANKSHAFT FIRST!  (from the front)

[Dave 2]

Thanks Rob, All I intended to do was to remove the clutch for inspection and to grease where necessary with Moly 66 and Sig3000. The Clymer Book does mention blocking the crankshaft for flywheel removal. It just does not discuss potential dangers removing the clutch assembly. Thanks again.D2

[Bob_Roller]

For future reference, you can get metric hardware from Ace Hardware stores, a ,ot cheaper than the 'tool' that available, which is just three bolts and nuts .

I picked up three long, I believe 7 mm diameter bolts and nuts .

The manual says to remove three of the bolts put the long bolts in and then tighten the nuts, as a jam-nut, remove the remaining three original bolts, then back off the jam-nuts on the three long bolts to relieve the tension from the spring .

It is also helpful when reinstalling the clutch, to use the three long bolts and jam-nuts to compress the diaphragm spring, if you can't get the bolts started .

[Dave 2]

Thanks Bob for another fine idea D2

[Dave 2]

I did want to report that the three 7mm bolts and nuts worked nicely to free up the stuck assembly. I now have them apart and I wonder if my liberal application of BP Blaster has ruined my clutch plate. I will take it to a mechanic who is familiar with dry clutches if I can find one, however I wonder if there is some rule of thumb about how to tell if the plate is toast? Thank You, D2

[nhmaf]

There is a thickness measurement of the friction material, and a 'depth' measurement of material thickness above the rivet heads to determine clutch wear, but as far as surface glazing or becoming contaminated, well, I think that it is better to be conservative and if in doubt-toss it out given how much time is involved to get back in there to replace it if you assemble everything only to find it slips while going up hills under load.   I've heard of folks boiling rear brake shoes to remove oil contamination from the shoes, but at least with rear brake shoes, it is comparatively easy to go back and replace them if they still aren't working right, plus, their functionality is so often used as the clutch.  

[Dave 2]

I think that it is better to be conservative and if in doubt-toss it out given how much time is involved to get back in there to replace it if you assemble everything only to find it slips while going up hills under load.

I guess I will have to swallow the bitter pill of the cost of a new clutch, but I agree that it is better to make sure. I know the feeling of trying to accelerate and having only the engine getting with the program. :-? thanks,D2