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Author Topic: newbie clutch Q:  (Read 18399 times)

Biocruiser

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #45 on: March 06, 2008, 09:37:02 AM »
Rob-
Thanks a ton for the detailed info. I know my inspection of the bike should have been more thorough before riding it but... the sun was out... I'm going to pull the push-rod today and see what I find re: bearing. I've already replaced the clutch plate (though I'm doubtful I needed to in retrospect) so I'm not thinking I'll pull the tranny again to replace the spring. The splines looked good and weren't rusty ro worn on the shaft from the transmission.

I did an oil change, a gear-oil change and a main drive oil change... haven't cracked the forks yet. I adjusted the tire pressure as per the table under the seat. I went with the "over 100mph" setting... just kidding.

There was no under seat manual or tool kit with the bike. I found a list of the tools that were included in the original kit that I plan to use to compile my own. I also picked up the "Clymer" shop manual but it's a bit thick for taking along... where would I find a used underseat manual? Any ideas? I looked on ebay...

Yikes

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #46 on: March 06, 2008, 11:57:13 AM »
You will probably need reslly good luck to find a used owner's manual, but you can get a new one here:
http://www.capitalcycle.com/body_html/catalog.html

Biocruiser

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #47 on: March 06, 2008, 01:13:29 PM »
Thanks... I ordered one to have on hand.

Well, it certainly looks like it was the bearing... by the schematic in post#42 it looks like I need parts 7, 6, 4 and 3... and maybe 3 & 5? I can't seem to pull part 3 out of the case with a magnet. Should I be able to? And part 5 it pretty dirty from the shattered bearing but I assume I could clean it, re-lube it, put a new rubber gasket on it and be good?

So now that I know (basically) what I need, where can I find part numbers for these in order to... order them? Is the number in the image lower right a number I could have the dealer look up? Like a fiche number or something?

Biocruiser

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #48 on: March 06, 2008, 01:14:01 PM »
here's the part 5...

Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #49 on: March 06, 2008, 01:22:29 PM »
There's a few on-line parts catalogs available, MaxBMW, is one, and RealOEM.com, is another.

Just remember that there was a change in the pushrod design in the 1981 model year, so be sure you get the correct illustration for your application.
'81 R65
'82 R65 LS
'84 R65 LS
'87 Moto Guzzi V65 Lario
'02 R1150R
Riding all year long since 1993 .
I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #50 on: March 06, 2008, 01:47:51 PM »
For part numbers, go to this link: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0363&mospid=47851&btnr=21_0069&hg=21&fg=10

For future reference, go to this link: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do
type in your 7 digit serial number found next to the oil fill hole on the engine block.  That will take you to the fiche you need for that engine (hopefully your engine and frame #'s match.  Tell me if they don't).
THEN BOOKMARK THAT PAGE!

It will be your friend for life.

Take care on the fork legs when you put the drain screws back in.  Easily stripped.
There are A LOT of steel fasteners going into aluminum threads on these bikes.  Take care.

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #51 on: March 06, 2008, 01:54:00 PM »
The small owners manual:

See the link http://suraklyn.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1178250003

It is a sticky at the top of this page.  I know I gave you a lot of info in those two posts.  You probably missed it.

Biocruiser

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #52 on: March 06, 2008, 01:54:05 PM »
Different serials :(.
Engine is 6580895, frame is 6380893.
Can you tell anything from the SER# like you can with a vin? Manufacture date, etc...?

Biocruiser

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #53 on: March 06, 2008, 01:57:40 PM »
nevermind... the i thought the 3s were 5s... bad eyes.

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #54 on: March 06, 2008, 02:03:11 PM »
Your frame shows up on the OEM website, but your engine # does not.   Please recheck.

You said:
Well, it certainly looks like it was the bearing... by the schematic in post#42 it looks like I need parts 7, 6, 4 and 3... and maybe 3 & 5? I can't seem to pull part 3 out of the case with a magnet. Should I be able to? And part 5 it pretty dirty from the shattered bearing but I assume I could clean it, re-lube it, put a new rubber gasket on it and be good?  

Yes, #3 should come out easily with the magnet.
This may be what is stopping the clutch action from happening.  You will need to get that thing out of there and clean up the "tunnel" very well.  I HIGHLY recommend pulling the tranny to do this work.  Mostly because you may need to remove the push rod to get to everything, not to mention being able to LOOK down in the hole.
It sounds like you will be replacing #'s 3, 4 and 6, possibly the piston, #5 as well.  The bearing needs to have smooth surfaces on which to spin.

It sounds like you need some moly on those input splines, anyway.  Do not blow this off.  You will regret it, later.
 


Now I have to go to work.   I'll be back on in a couple of hours.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2008, 02:07:24 PM by Rob_Valdez_79_R65 »

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #55 on: March 06, 2008, 05:27:51 PM »
Quote
Different serials :(.
Engine is 6580895, frame is 6380893.
Can you tell anything from the SER# like you can with a vin? Manufacture date, etc...?


6380893 - Built in 2/79

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=6380893&kind=M&series=K53&body=ohne&model=R65&zone=USA&prod=19781200&arch=1

Biocruiser

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #56 on: March 06, 2008, 06:34:43 PM »
It's ridable now... but the clutch still doesn't fully disengage when you pull the hand lever. I have all the slack taken out of the cable I can... but it seems like if I could adjust it a little bit more I'd be okay... I'm going to remove the cable and try and measure it to see if it's stretched out or something...

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #57 on: March 06, 2008, 06:44:29 PM »
The rubber boot can be a bit tricky to install.
I am pretty sure I put the post of #5 through the small hole, first, and then put #5 piston into the transmission and then work the large diameter opening around the casting flange.

Also, make sure your adjuster screw and nut (#9 & 10) are original.  We had someone on here that could not adjust their clutch.  It turned out a previous owner (PO) had replaced them with "something else".  These parts are critical to success.


Apparently you found the small "C" clip that resides in a groove on the pivot pin, so you could take this whole mess apart.  Congratulations!

Unfortunately, some folks have lost that C clip, and the pivot pin slides out of one of the ears, putting great and undo pressure on the remaining ear, sometimes breaking it off the back of the transmission.

The best solution is to replace the pin with a shouldered bolt, such as this one.  It cannot slip out.  It was a SOB to get in, though... (I was probably impatient!)



I bought this one from an airhead in Michigan.
You can also get them at the local hardware store.  I don't think I used the included washer...

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #58 on: March 06, 2008, 06:51:21 PM »
Quote
It's ridable now... but the clutch still doesn't fully disengage when you pull the hand lever. I have all the slack taken out of the cable I can... but it seems like if I could adjust it a little bit more I'd be okay... I'm going to remove the cable and try and measure it to see if it's stretched out or something...

If I had a bike new to me, with unknowns and a mal-functioning clutch, I would immediately replace the clutch cable.

It doesn't matter if you have high handlebars or low, it is the cable length vs. the sheath that is important.

Obviously, if you have high (US) bars, you do not want the shorter cable for the low bars.
I have low bars, and I used a longer cable for quite a few years with no problem.

And if you haven't got that inner bearing race moving around freely, it is not going to work right.
Lube on the splines would help, in case I forgot to mention it, before...
« Last Edit: March 06, 2008, 06:52:55 PM by Rob_Valdez_79_R65 »

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: newbie clutch Q:
« Reply #59 on: March 06, 2008, 06:57:45 PM »
And this is a good time to start record keeping, so you will know when you did everything.