newly purchased '79 having trouble starting

[mendozeal]

great advice, going with stock filters.

my bike had the original riders manual under the seat.
and I found a pdf of the haynes twin workshop manual

[mendozeal]

ordering parts online today...
just got new (used) headers w/o rust... 40 bones including shipping!
I will be posting my old ones on the trading post for frees, open for the forum, just paypal me shipping!

they are spot rusted, crossbars are pretty eaten up, but definitely still in usable condition, new cross bars and a great canditate for restore.  
ill be doing this with any usable part I retire so keep your eyes open or email me at mendozeal@gmail.com.

[Semper Gumby]

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The fuel tank looks like the red/orange inside line is peeling, the petcock was filthy. solutions?  <snip>  push rod seals <snip>

The sea foam does this.  No worries though.  Finish the process with some nails or screws and some acetone and a whole lottta shakin'.  Get everything out and let the tank completely dry.  Then buy a Casewell kit and line the tank.  The Casewell epoxy will cover and seal what ever is left of the red paint.  Take the petcocks apart and clean the screens and the tubes.

On the push rod seals.  If new seals doesn't cure the "seep" of oil, no worries, just have you mechanic tap the seal holders down the tubes towards the the seal once it is all back together.  This puts more pressure on the seal making it seal better.  Then either put on a hose clamp behind the collar or spot weld the collar in place and keep it from moving back up the push rod tub away from the block of the motor.  They are just pressed on and can move around over time.  

Another source of of "seep" oil is the two oil galley plugs on the LH side of the motor below and to the right of the oil pressure switch.  Although these are almost impossibe to remove, they will sometimes seep oil.  I have just gotten used to this on my 1980.  One faces aft on the transmission end of the block, the other is below and to the right of the oil pressure switch.

When it comes time for your first spline lube (every 15,000 miles), do not put grease in the (female) friction plate splines like the picture in the CLYMER manual.  You will contaminate your clutch with grease (bad bad bad).  Only put Honda Moly 60 (or your favorite NLGI2 moly grease) on your transmission input splines and on the rod on the tip of said tranny input spline.  Some mix a little Honda Moly 60 with their favorite NLGI2 grease and put it on.

Also the 1979 1980 R65 clutch asembly has six UNDOCUMENTED 6mm screws.  Do not put the clutch pack together with the torque setting for the thicker 8mm screws that every other airhead from those years has.  You will twist the heads off!  Just snug 'em tight with some blue locktite and a small 1/4" drive ratchet.

My K&N filter has worked just fine for over 70,000 miles now.  I have the filter cleaner and the oil which I do every 25,000 miles whether it needs it or not!  

Most of us put a single tye wrap though the fins of the side cover around the frame tube because the plastic gets old and cracks or the rubbers wear out and go away and we don't want to loose an expensive side cover...

Good luck and welcome.

[mendozeal]

side covers already gone searching for replacements

and I bought the k&n, might not help but it couldnt hurt right?

ordering casewell.

and so the oil "seep" is pretty customary? I am going to have a go through with a mechanic (anyone in the SF bay area?) but wasnt actually too "worried" about it.

I tested my charging system today. not charging. died out in service. not stressing, just gives me some time to paint. I talked to rick jones this morning at motorrad elektrik. awesome help. getting me a dynacoil green, mounting bracket, wires, alternator coil, other alternator components. a starter lead kit (hopefully) and honestly whatever else he recommends.

[mendozeal]

and gumby thank you, that was all insanely useful. printing it now under title notes for mechanic....

also my tank rattles something fierce in the low rpms, any clever reinforcing ideas?

[nhmaf]

It is possible that the rubber bumpers that are at the fuel tank mount/contact points have gotten brittle, stiff, contracted, or disintegrated.   There should be a rubber pad up toward the steering head that is maybe 3" long and semi-cylindrical, that fits into a "cup" or hollowed brace at the front of the tank.  there should also be one or two soft rubber cushions at the back of the tank where the wirespring "bail" loops under the frame's backbone.   If this is gone, I'd expect things to rattle back there.   Someone will post a link to a microfiche with the part numbers - I'm having some PC issues at the moment.

[RSMike]

It is possible that the rubber bumpers that are at the fuel tank mount/contact points have gotten brittle, stiff, contracted, or disintegrated.   There should be a rubber pad up toward the steering head that is maybe 3" long and semi-cylindrical, that fits into a "cup" or hollowed brace at the front of the tank.  there should also be one or two soft rubber cushions at the back of the tank where the wirespring "bail" loops under the frame's backbone.   If this is gone, I'd expect things to rattle back there.   Someone will post a link to a microfiche with the part numbers - I'm having some PC issues at the moment.

Parts 2, 3 & 4, also a rubber sleeve on clip part 13 that can wear through, mine has almost had it!



http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51897&rnd=03252011

[montmil]

... also my tank rattles something fierce in the low rpms, any clever reinforcing ideas?

You've mentioned the need for some carb work. After replacing worn Bing bits, a proper carb synchronization will do wonders with quelling the vibration uprising.

Monte

[mendozeal]

awesome! perfect!

so much work being done!
and I ordered a carb sync kit (the plug short type) it includes instructions but I am taking her to BMW of santa rosa for push rod seals, and help show me all the proper syncing techniques.)

[montmil]

... I am taking her to BMW of santa rosa for...help show(ing) me all the proper syncing techniques.

Sparrow, you reminded me of a way back sign I once saw in an indy bike shop...

                    LABOR RATES
                   $50.00 Per Hour
                $100.00 if you watch
                 $150.00 if you help

Are you still planning on your Iron Butt Chicago run? Take some cool snaps for us. [smiley=camera_sm.jpg]

Monte

[mendozeal]

haha
they woulda charged me 200 to help.... beautiful!
you shoulda read the email I sent to bmw of santa rosa... "please, Ill behave and just sit in the corner all quiet like!"

I also bought a 14mpxl tough camera, like I said, you guys will be with me the whole "Iron butt" trek!

and this restore is going great! ill post pics in the end too!

[Semper Gumby]

I also bought a 14mpxl tough camera, like I said, you guys will be with me the whole "Iron butt" trek!

Cool when are you attempting this?

My first IBA ride on the R65 was a 50 hours Jax to San Deigo (Sept 2006Z).  I'm on "the list".

http://www.ironbutt.com/rides/rideslogin.cfm

[mendozeal]

Cool when are you attempting this?

My first IBA ride on the R65 was a 50 hours Jax to San Deigo (Sept 2006Z).I'm on "the list"

Ha I had no idea this was a real thing!?!?...
Hopefully I leave by the first of september. I am going to register now!

[geekmong]

hi sparrow, just got my own r65 ls, 1982 vintage . Good luck with the trip and all the best , look forward to seeing those pictures.

[mendozeal]