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Author Topic: Oil Gasket  (Read 1661 times)

Milo_357

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Oil Gasket
« on: August 25, 2011, 07:58:38 AM »
I am leaking oil pretty badly, and I fairly confident that the problem may be the oil pan gasket.

Now, as anyone who has read up on oil changes know, they are meant to scare the hell out of you. (i.e. the $3000 o-ring).

IS there anything I need to know when changing that gasket, or is it really as straight forward as it appears?

Thanks,

Dell

JPSpen

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2011, 08:43:02 AM »
oil pan gasket is pretty straight forward.. I'd be sure it's not the oil pressure sender which is known to leak or the neutral switch...

I'm assuming you know the difference between engine oil and gear oil.. :)

Or while you've got the pan off I'd do the oil pressure switch too..

Good Luck.. It's really no biggie...

John

Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2011, 08:43:11 AM »
No 'gotcha's' in this job .

Pretty straight forward job, if you do use a sealant on the gasket, just put a thin 'skin' on it, no need to gob it on, it will only ooze out out and not really help things out .
'81 R65
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I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!

Offline montmil

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2011, 09:58:02 AM »
JPSpen and Rollin' Bob offer good tips. The oil pan gasket swap is straightforward until it's time to tighten up the oil pan's bolts. This is where many Airhead DIYers come to grief...

DO NOT -yes, I know I'm yelling, over-torque these small bolts and strip the threads in the aluminum crankcase. Use a short-short handled ratchet wrench or a short-short box; whichever works for you. Be gentle, yet firm.

As the new gasket goes through some heating & cooling cycles, it may weep a little engine oil. No biggie. Just gently go back over the oil pan bolts, checking for a good snug.

Hopefully, Milo, you will not find a PO has stripped a crankcase thread, then filled it with JBWeld and a bolt stuck in place. It happens. :'(

Gently...
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Milo_357

  • Guest
Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2011, 10:18:27 AM »
JPSpen - never assume with me.  Mechanics are NOT my specialty.  I am on a steep learning curve and ask a lot of newb questions.  Probably how I got to 100 posts so fast :)  Please, tell me about oil switchs.

Bob, do I NEED sealant, want it, or both?

Monte, believe it or not I've tapped and rethreaded in the past, so if I have too I can do that if it's possible.

I hope to be among a lot of more experience airheads than myself when I take on the brake & oil jobs I have planned for next month.

Dell

JPSpen

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2011, 03:34:15 PM »
If it was mine I'd make sure everything is clean.. Only use sealant it you have gouge or other deformity that makes it necessary..

I believe the torque spec for those bolts is "Dassenough..."

John

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2011, 05:05:13 PM »
I would probably use a OEM cork gasket, perhaps with a thin smear of axle grease on the block side.

There are also these silicone gaskets available.  I know the ones for the valve covers are popular, I'm not sure about the oil pan gasket.  http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm

For the fasteners:

For those it is best to use a socket nut screwdriver or a palm-ratchet.


Have you checked your push rod tube seals?  They can get messy.

I've read the best method for determining where the leak is coming from is to clean everything up real well and dust the bottom of everything with talcum powder.  The leak will quickly reveal itself (I've read...).
« Last Edit: August 25, 2011, 05:10:10 PM by Rob_Valdez_79_R65 »

geekmong

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2011, 06:09:32 PM »
hi milo, i had a slight drip from my oil pan gasket, i carefully 'nipped up' the bolts and the leak has gone ( for now). I am attempting my brake bleed this weekend later than expected due to rides out, i will let you know the outcome.

Offline Julio A.

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2011, 05:22:44 AM »
When I installed a new oil pan gasket, I had to re-tighten the bolts at least 3 times. I think it's because of the gasket being compressed when new.

And don't use a torque wrench. The bolts there are dangerously easy to strip even with a normal box wrench.
Julio Alarcon
1981 R65
1976 R90/6
2001 R1150 GS/ADV
2015 TR650

Offline Semper Gumby

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2011, 11:09:16 AM »
I believe a 1/4" drive ratchet would be "goodenough".
Bill Gould ?1980/03 R65 When at first you don't succeed....Moo!

wirewrkr

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2011, 01:24:52 PM »
Quote
I would probably use a OEM cork gasket.

Cork?
OEM is not cork. Not since the /2. (which still is and still sucks)
Silicone gaskets are a joke and are merely used as band-aids on a pre-existing problems.

tvrla

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Re: Oil Gasket
« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2011, 08:00:03 AM »
One of the problems with Silicone gaskets, and the biggest reason I can think of for not using them, is their squishiness - the exact reason why you'd want one. The reason they're a problem is because the fasteners can't tighten against it. Then they're free to fall out. Loctite should be used, but it can be difficult cleaning everything enough for threadlocker to work well.

Like wirewrkr said, they're a bandaid - instead fix the original problem.