When my clutch splines went, like Melena described - I initially had a hard time getting the transmission into neutral, as the engine could no longer spin the transmission to help with realignment of the gears if they weren't lined up just right (if you have a transmission out of a bike and test it by shifting gears up & down, you may often have to give a bit of a tweak to the input or output shaft to help the shifting process). But, once I did get it to work after a bit more trying & rolling the bike foward in gear after having initially stopped it, it would shift into neutral, etc. But, I tend to think this isn't Melena's situation as one could start the bike (it just made such gawdawful noise I didn't want to let it run as it was audibly chewing metal and I didn't want to worsen the damage).
You mentioned that it just goes rrr-rrr-rrr without starting - I am wondering if the electric starter motor is running, but either the nose/bendix has somehow broken (it could be if it somehow engaged on a running engine @ 3500 RPM) or the starter gear's teeth are gone? An easy test that requires no tools to tell if the engine is at least turning would be to pull the timing plug out of the case and look to see that the flywheel ring is turning as you crank the starter. You could also try taking a valve cover off, pull the sparkplugs out, slip the transmission into 2nd or 3rd gear and roll the bike forward to observe the flywheel, valve/rockers and piston crown (through the sparkplug hole). IF the rockers/valves don't move but the flywheel rotates and the piston crown is visible through the sparkplug hole, the timing chain is broken. If the piston doesn't move and the flywheel doesn't move, the clutch splines are gone.
It may not tell you any additional info, but it might help with the isolating the problem to the front or back part of the engine/drivetrain.. My fingers are crossed that it is simple and inexpensive!!!