Brakes - From: Dipping a toe to test the water!

[nhmaf]

I guess that if one finds any signs of oil in the brake area, you really really ought to
disassemble the final drive  housing and examine the gears - who knows how long it has run
and how low on oil..   I cringe to think as rear drive assemblies often aren't cheap.

I wish you the best of luck !
 

[Chris_in_BC]

Let us address the three small o-rings for a moment.

Does one have to remove the inner cover in order to get the brake actuating shaft out?

No, as you correctly commented, mark the brake arm and remove. Then as Ed said, just remove brake shoes and tap the brake shaft through. It is only held by the stiction of those O-rings, so you could almost do it with your fingers. Our '81 R65 has 3 rings, my 'early '81 G/S only had two, so I had another one machined in.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I have heard (Sue?) of folks finding only 2 o-rings in there, and adding the third one.  But I don't think Sue had any machine work done on her LS shaft.

I am concerned about mine because of oil on the outside (RH) of the final drive.  I haven't had the rear wheel removed since at least 1 year ago, maybe longer.  The brake works, though.

I have a parts list building for payday, Thursday.  I should add three o-rings to it.


(no financial compensation)
(no, I'm not going to make that a regular sig.  Just where this parts order is going...via phone/email...)

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Cut & paste from It's Only Me[/b] in General Announcements:


I have decided to do the seals in the bevel drive this weekend, is this the big seal you were all talking about....

http://www.bmwandguzzispares.co.uk/bmw/products/product.php?f=i&code=BA_15_20_EA_60&shnew=New&model=R45%2F50%2F65%2F75%2F80%2F90%2F100+%282+valve%29&shnewcode=15&part=Transmission&sub_part=Bevel+box+seals&modelcode=20&partcode=EA&source_code=BA_15_20_EA_60

Bevel box output seal (1955-1984 not GS/ST) | TRA04343

I already have the three small o-rings for the brake actuating rod.

[its_only_me]

have any of you done this oil seal replacement, as reading the Clymer on the subject, it seems a lot more work than I first thought, they go on about using a heat gun to remove the cover, shims, and gaskets etc.  I can't seem to find the corresponding gasket for sale?
I thought this was just going to be pull off the cover, knock out old oil seal, clean up area, install new oil seal, refit cover, job done. :-/

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Did you see Chris in B.C. 's post near the bottom of page one of this thread (or version of this thread...)?

That is about all I know about it.  I have not been in there, before.

Between the freezer, and a heat gun, I would thing it wouldn't be too impossible.
Can you get a heat gun out to the street?  I'm not sure I would use a propane torch on it.  (portability).

Wait for others to chime in.

Feel free to post a query on http://www.boxerworks.com or Motobins.  Lots of experience there.

[trolle]

I did it and it is not that difficult but as I mentioned in a previous posting: be very careful when replacing the cover not to overstress the bolts.

I used a heatgun to warm the housing and put the cover in my freezer (remember to tell your wife   ). I did not take the final drive off which made things a little akward and if you do not mind the extra work, my advice is to do so. Working with the final drive on a bench makes it easier to assemble.

have fun

greetings from a nearly sunny but cool north, expecting max temp of 50F

trolle

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Kev,

If you do remove the final drive from the swingarm, here is some more sage advice from he who is known as Duane.  

When reassembling the two pieces, do not tighten the 4 bolts completely until you slide the rear axle through the swingarm/final drive.  This aligns everything for the final tightening.

You will also need a new paper gasket for that same junction.

Find a large plastic bag to put the cover in before putting it in the freezer.

[its_only_me]

Well I did my brake actuating rod o-rings today, and that looks the likely culprit for the oil in the hub area as there was oil behind the big washer, and the shaft was a loose fit in the hole, but after fitting the three new o-rings it was a much tighter fit, an easy job, and for the price of the o-rings worth doing when you change the final drive oil.

[Justin B.]

I hope that takes care of it for you.  I had the rear wheel off (fitting the stainless axle) my project '82 LS a couple weeks ago and it was also an oily mess inside the brake drum, soaked shoes, etc.  [smiley=furious3.gif] Hopefully it's the O-rings, much easier than farkling around with the seal around the splines...