Parts Rant.

[Semper Gumby]

In 2003 I bought a neutral switch for $19.  Today this same switch cost $33.  I think I'm going to remove the old one and seal the top with some JB Weld.  

Hurrumph.

[Bob_Roller]

I'm seriously considering putting a plug in the hole, and do without a neutral indication.

It will require starting the engine with the clutch pulled in though.

[donbmw]

I have been starting my 75 R90 for the last 20 years with out the switch working. Just last month was fixing oil leaks and found that one of them was the switch took it out and replaced it with a plug.

Don

[Semper Gumby]

Got a part number on that plug!  Or a size?

 :-/

[Bob_Roller]

I'm going into a NAPA store today, and I'm going to take the switch in with me, and see if there a more cost efficient non OEM part is available.

[donbmw]

I happen to have a spare final drive off a R100 I used one of the drive shaft plugs.

Don

[Bob_Roller]

I was at the local independent BMW shop that helped me out last weekend with my transmission problem, ordering the clutch parts.

I asked about the neutral switch leakage, and I was told  the problem with the switch is over tightening.

I was told if you snug it up with a wrench, you will damage it internally, and it will leak.

The suggested method is put some sealant on the threads, and tighten it up as much as you can by hand , no more.

So I'll try that method when I re-install my transmission in about a week or so,when my clutch parts come in.

Also no luck with NAPA auto parts on a non OEM switch.

[donbmw]

Bob

I thought that was my problem with the leak at the switch but when I was really looking and noticed that it was dry where the switch was installed and the oil was dripping out the center of the switch where the wire attached. I have had the oil press switch do the same. There is two different plugs for the drive shaft I will have to look and see which one I used when I get home to get the BMW Part number.

Don

[Bob_Roller]

Don

From what I was told, the inner parts the contacts and such, is where the damage occurs, I guess it's not a robust design, and whatever does the sealing on the inside breaks, and oil seeps through the innards of the switch itself, and comes out around the metal electrical terminals.

So once you get leakage, there's not much you can do except replace it.

I'm going to try teflon thread tape on the threads, and tighten it up by hand before installing the transmission.

[donbmw]

Here is the part number of the plug I used 07119919225

Don

[Justin B.]

I wonder if there would be some way of contriving some sort of non-contact hall type sensor that would detect whatever prong/detent/hootus it is that actuates the switch?  This could than be completely sealed/potted and no chance of it ever leaking...

[dewjantim]

While on a trip on my old R90S, the oil pressure sending unit started leaking all over my boot. Pikeville Ky doesn't have any BMW shops so stopping at an auto parts store was my only hope. They had a small box full of "foreign" car sending units. I looked at all of them and found a match, I believe it was from a Volvo. It was cheap and never had to be replaced again. Of course, you could order one from RE-psycle BMW, used and half price.......Dew.

[Justin B.]

Oil pressure switch from an early 80's BMW 4-wheeler is a matchup - I have one on my '95 RT.  Plus, the size is such that you can remove them with a spark plug socket.

[thrang]

The switch from an 80's three series fits, and its the same as small VW hatcback (not sure of the model but I think its the golfs).

[Justin B.]

Ya gotta be careful about the VW switches as the older ones used a switch with a pipe thread instead of a straight thread.  BTDT...