Another new member!

[JerryJ]

Hi, all, I'm new here, presently in Brainerd, Minnesota.

My Dad's cousin passed away last December, and I've basically inherited his two '79 R65s. My son is planning on taking his original (83k) and I have the "newer" one (33k). They haven't been registered since '02, and weren't being used for some time before that. so we have some work to do....

[montmil]

Brainerd. That's up in Ol' Shotgun Red territory.

What a neat deal with your Dad's cousin's two R65s. Second and third generations on the family BMWs. Y'all know you're beginning a Legacy Ride and can never sell those bikes.

Congrats on planning to refurbish and ride 'em, not hide 'em.

Ask any questions. The inmates here in the R65 Asylum are ready for some resto action.

[JerryJ]

Shotgun Red's old hangout, Hasse's, has been through a lot of different hands. Presently it's called Hassie's, owned by a couple gents who each have other restaurants/bars, kitchen managed by the son of one and the restaraunt/bar by the GF of the other. It's what we in Minnesota call a Family Bar. Really nice place, good food, pleasant servers, and Shotgun Red sits on the back bar, keeping an eye on things. It's one of the places I go for a cold one.

I changed oil the other day, and found the spare filter I had doesn't fit. It's a 2-piece Purolator 17, while what came out was a 1-piece Purolator 16. :-? I'll get the right one before firing it up.

I filled the tank with non-oxygenated (no ethanol) 93 octane premium fuel, opened the tap and got my foot flooded with gas, so I guess I do have to "go in". I'll be changing tranny and rear end fluids next, I guess. We have no service records for this bike, so I'm just going to do everything that needed to be done at 30k.

Anybody have any other suggestions for a bike that hasn't been ridden in over 10 years?

[montmil]

... Anybody have any other suggestions for a bike that hasn't been ridden in over 10 years?

I purchase service components for my three Airheads from John Rayski outta Denver CO. Very helpful gent that's always ready to assist and guide folks to the right product. Call him or email. Response is near immediate.  http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/

Check out his site. I've been using his EnDurLast hinged, aka bendy, oil filters for years. Full service kits for your Airheads are also offered -since you'll likely change air filters and all the drain plugs will need new crush washers.

New sparkle plugs, for sure. And your Bing dribbles are likely a result of old float bowl gaskets and/or some debris in the float needle jet. See how the engine runs before tearing into the carbs. I would suggest removing the petcocks on the fuel tanks and rinsing out the tanks. You'll probably see some junk.

Eventually, tires should be replaced. Old, hard rubber just won't grip the pavement no mo'. Y'all don't need that kinda motorcycle excitement.

I'm going to let some others chime in with their thoughts. Keep records of your work. A digital camera is an asset... if you remember to use it! Now then... Where was that wire attached?

Happy tweaking [smiley=beer.gif]

[Bob_Roller]

Hi Jerry !!!

I'll just add a few things to  check on the bikes .
First would be the rubber boot that goes over the speedometer cable as it enters the transmission, it looses it' s grip on the cable and allows water into the transmission .
The other, is the forward ignition coil mount, the main ground for the bikes circuits are attached here and the mount has been known to crack and gives odd intermitent electrical issues when the ground is lost .

You've got a bit of work ahead of you, but after you get the bikes sorted out, you'll have dependable machines, that you don't see on the road very much .

[JerryJ]

Thanks, guys. I had to come back to LA to help with my uncle's stuff, so I've been away from the 'puter for a few days. I decided to bring the bike, cuz California DMV sometimes wants to see the vehicle to make sure it isn't stolen. Hopefully we'll get the titles straightened out this trip.

The tires on are just about bald so new tires are already on the list, and as long as I'm close to a couple dealerships here in LA, I'll be able to get parts easily, but back in Minnesota, I'll certainly be using the Internet for parts, rather than making a 2 hr. trip to Minneapolis. Thanks for the link.

And thanks for the heads up on the speedo cable boot. My Dnepr came to me missing that bit, and yeah, the tranny was full of water. Been there, done that, don't wanna do it again. Can you say "Mayonnaise"?

I'll check the float valves and bowl gaskets first, of course. I was completely flabbergasted when I drained the fuel tank and the fuel came out as clear and clean as Coleman Fuel, and smelled GREAT, not like varnish. My lawn mowers are going to be treated to something special this summer -- I don't know what it is, but it's definitely special. The tank was as clean as a whistle too, so I'll just replace the inline filters and go from there.

Am I reading the manual right, the gearbox and final drive take SAE 90 gear oil? Only reason I ask is the Dnepr calls for 10w30 in the tranny and gear oil in the final, so I'm checking to see if I read it right.

Morning coffee is gone, so time to get to work. Cleaning lady is coming today, so I'm working in the house with 2 women, not the garage, where I'd like to be.

[montmil]

90 wt gear oil in the transmission, drive shaft and final drive is correct. Best check the rubber accordion boot between gear box and shaft for cracks.

[Barry]

Am I reading the manual right, the gearbox and final drive take SAE 90 gear oil? Only reason I ask is the Dnepr calls for 10w30 in the tranny and gear oil in the final, so I'm checking to see if I read it right.

90W GL5 gear oil is the spec. for summer and 80W for winter or 80W90 year round.  Some use 75W90 semi synthetic which I think is really worthwhile in cold temperatures.  Does Minnesota get cold ?

[montmil]

...  Does Minnesota get cold ?

Is the Pope a Catholic?

[JerryJ]

I guess it depends on how you define cold. I won't be riding it w/ snow and ice on the roads & we do have that. I like the idea of synthetic, but I have about 10 quarts of regular 80W90 in my garage, so I'll be using that.

[montmil]

"I like the idea of synthetic"

Several Airhead owners have switched to pure synthetic oils. Some have then experienced oil leaks where none existed before the change from conventional oils to the 'slicker' synthetics. Some, if not all, of the OEM oil seals and o-rings in the classic 247/248 bikes are designed to swell slightly for proper sealing from contact with conventional oil. This does not occur with the high-dollar synthetics... and seeps n' weeps occur.

Best example from my most recent top end overhaul on the '81 R65: That big 'ol o-ring that lays in the groove at the base flange of the cylinder? Airhead gurus, ie: Oak Okleshen, Bob "Snowbum" Fleischer advise getting the cylinder down onto the crankcase within <20 minutes of pre-oiling the ring. Otherwise, the ring can and will expand to the point that a proper, oil-tight seal may not occur.

Your bike. Your money. Your time. Your decision.

[Barry]

80W90 is fine. It's the straight 90 that should be avoided in cold climates. There is not much difference between the various oil viscosities at operating temperature but at 0 Deg C or below there is a huge difference that turns straight 90 into treacle. The best way to get an insight into cold oil drag is to spin the rear wheel by hand before going on a ride, then do the same when you get back. The difference in drag is enormous.