Fork Slider Removal

[Crossrodes]

OK now that I've repacked my wheel bearings and changed my front tire I'm getting down to why I started this.  I am installing new gaiters on the front forks.  

Looking at the various shop manuals that I have I've figured out that I have Type 2 forks.  At the moment the fork oil is draining out into a container.

Someone told me that I can remove the fork slider without removing the forks from the bike.  Does anyone know if this is correct?  I have the calipers and brake hose clamps removed from the sliders.  Do I have to remove the allen stud at the bottom of the slider?  Is there anything else I need to remove?  Would it be simpler to take the forks off the bike?

[Bob_Roller]

You have to remove the circlip and cap at the top of the fork tube, remove the spring, and get a 13 mm socket on the top of the damper tube, and then an allen wrench on the bolt at the bottom of the fork to remove the 'innards' of the fork.

I personally have always removed the fork assembly from the bike, and cut two pieces of wood to protect the parts,  and put the whole assembly in a large vise to disassemble it.

[Crossrodes]

Thanks Bob.  So I'm guessing I will need a helper to hold the 13mm nut while I loosen the allen stud.  Is that right?

[nhmaf]

I have been able to do this job alone when pressed, but it isn't easy to do unless you have a third hand.
At one point I was pressing down on the socket wrench with my jaw - when it slipped it wasn't pretty.
Don't use your face !  It can be done alone, but you'll probably  be doing some cussin in the process unless
you get very lucky.

It is much easier/best to take the forks off the bike when pulling the sliders off.   If someone bet me a case or two of
my favorite beer, I could do it without pulling the forks off the bike, but it much more difficult that way.

[montmil]

In early June, this fork seal change was well covered with lots of good ideas and tips. Check it out:

http://suraklyn.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1210550585/26#26

[Bob_Roller]

Thanks Bob.  So I'm guessing I will need a helper to hold the 13mm nut while I loosen the allen stud.  Is that right?

I have had no problem doing it myself, while removed fom he bike.

Pushing down on the top cap to expose the wire circlip, can be a bit of a hassle, but doable without any help.

I improvised a tool, by using a two jaw battery terminal remover, and and about 4 inches of an old inner tube, plus a few radiator hose clamps, to depress the top cap to allow a 'hands free' method of removing the wire circlip.

But with a little 'practice' it's really not too difficult of a job to perform by yourself.

[Crossrodes]

Thanks all.  Montmil those instructions are good uns.  I don't plan on changing the seals ...they're OK.  But the instructions will help anyway.  I just want to get the tube out of the slider so that I can install the gaiters.

[Bob_Roller]

If all you want to do, is to install gaiters, just remove the fasteners from the front fender, and the pinch bolts from the upper and lower triple clamps, and remove the complete fork assembly from the bike.

No sense disassembling the fork for this !!!!

[Crossrodes]

You're right Bob....

[nhmaf]

Yes  - I didn't realize that you were only just going to put on gaiters/gaitors/gators (?) - there is no need to do more than to just remove the fork tubes as an entire assembly from the bike as described above to put them on.   Also, if you need to repack/regrease or replace your steering head bearings,
one can remove the entire fork assembly with the triple clamp /yokes attached without having to take the sliders, wheels, brakes, etc. off - though that is more of a 2 person job, it can save alot of time and effort.

[Crossrodes]

It's called tunnel vision.  I should have realized that I could install the gaiters this way.  Yesterday I was talking to a friend who also rides an R65 and he suggested the same thing just prior to it being posted here.

I was thinking about the steering head bearings too (since I'm working in the vicinity and I have no idea when they were last serviced).  I'll make that decision after I remove the forks.

The wheel bearings and races looked to me to be in good shape after I got them cleaned up but they were certainly due for repacking.  I'm glad I took the time to do them.

[Barry]

I have recently removed the fork sliders without disturbing the stanchions.  I also manged to loosen the allen screw which secures the slider to the bottom of the damper rod with the springs still in place.  I guess it depends how tight they are. A sharp tap with a hammer helps.

[Crossrodes]

OK I've removed the upper and lower pinch bolts, the fender, the calipers and the brake line brackets from the forks and I can't budge them.  The manual indicates that the forks will fall out.  Not so with these.  Do I just have to keep on working them, applying penetrating oil to the triple tree/fork area or is there something I've missed?

Sorry for all the dumb questions guys but these are the first forks I've removed.

[Bob_Roller]

The forks most likely have not been disturbed since the bike was built.

You could try taking a piece of tapered wood, and wedging it into the gaps of the triple clamps and then use a few hammer taps or hits, to open them up a bit, also you could try a piece of wood on the top of the fork tube to tap them down, and a bit of light oil in the area wouldn't hurt.

[donbmw]

Take 2 large blade common screw drivers and tap them in the slots on the upper and lower clamps. The forks will fall out or with very little movment then come out.

Don