How hard is it to replace the shifter seal?

[billygoat]

How hard is it to replace the shifter seal? Has anyone done it?
I got a leak and I can't park in the drive until fixed.

[donbmw]

It is real easy to change. Remove shift shaft and pop out the old sea. Tap new seal in and make sure it is in the same amount all the way around. A seal that is not even can be hard shifting.

Don

[MrRiden]

Mr. Goat sir,
Seal is a walk in the park. [size=16]I just replaced mine[/size] after some encouraging words from Bob R. Drain the gear lube from the trans into a suitable container. Remove the shifter linkage and undo the center bolt holding the 'shift shaft' [say that 5 times fast] and withdraw the lever. You'll need to pry the old seal out with a small screw driver / dental pick being careful not to score the bore the seal sits in. A scrap of wood may work well as a fulcrum so you don't mar the case. Pay attention to the depth the old seal was installed and using a socket, broom handle, whatever drive the new seal in NICE AND SQUARE. Oil & insert the shaft, tighten and reconnect the linkage, pour the gear lube back in or even refresh it with new and your done! no more funny smell at traffic lights! Good time to upgrade your shift linkage with the nifty one sold by Justin here.
rich
poking some fun at someone with crazy fonts[size=16][size=14][/size][/size]

[Bob_Roller]

From what I can remember, there is nothing to prevent you from pushing the seal all the way into the transmission, if you are not paying attention to what you are doing.

The comment on hard shifting, if the seal isn't installed straight is true, I had this problem last year when I had my transmission overhauled, and the shift shaft seal was installed crooked.

[airhead]

From what I can remember, there is nothing to prevent you from pushing the seal all the way into the transmission, if you are not paying attention to what you are doing.

Actually, there's no way that can happen as there's a self centring bush just behind it that the shaft rides in. Neither can go deeper as they are installed from the outside and the case is stepped.

In actual fact, no need to drain any oil, just tip the bike slightly over to the right and the oil will clear the hole, I've done a few this way. Also make sure the shifter shaft fork end isn't burred or it will damage the seal on re-entry, just file it smooth if it is. Don't over tighten the centre allen bolt.

Bill..........................;-)

[montmil]

Mr. Goat sir,
Seal is a walk in the park. [size=16]I just replaced mine[/size] after some encouraging words from Bob R. Drain the gear lube from the trans into a suitable container. Remove the shifter linkage and undo the center bolt holding the 'shift shaft' [say that 5 times fast] and withdraw the lever. You'll need to pry the old seal out with a small screw driver / dental pick being careful not to score the bore the seal sits in. A scrap of wood may work well as a fulcrum so you don't mar the case. Pay attention to the depth the old seal was installed and using a socket, broom handle, whatever drive the new seal in NICE AND SQUARE. Oil & insert the shaft, tighten and reconnect the linkage, pour the gear lube back in or even refresh it with new and your done! no more funny smell at traffic lights! Good time to upgrade your shift linkage with the nifty one sold by Justin here.
rich
poking some fun at someone with crazy fonts[size=16][size=14][/size][/size]

Say, Rich...  Do you ski with a raccoon on your head?    

[Semper Gumby]

Actually on my 1980 you can push the shift seal in too far.  I was told that after you get the old seal out look inside the bore.  The first 3mm or so has a taper.  The outer portion of the new seal should not go in any farther than the innermost portion of the taper.  This is so that the outer lip of the seal will line up with an indentation where the shifter shaft meets the arm attached to the shaft.  The two must become one ar you will have leaks.

I would get you a picture but mine is installed (and not leaking).  About a 20 minute job if I remember correctly.

BTW - After you fix this leak and the one around the neutral switch then it is Murphy's Law that oil will leak from somewheres else (like the drive boot).

Good luck.

[nothing]

A couple of points:

NEVER re-use gear oil once it is out of the bike unless it's an emergency - spend five dollars and replace the stuff, especially on an airhead transmission, since you can 100% guarantee that there are metal shavings and bits in it (unfortunately this is normal on these bikes).

Before replacing the gear shift lever through the new seal, spend 2 minutes with a grinder or file and remove all the burrs on the innermost end. Chances are pretty good that you will ruin your brand new seal if you skip this step.  

[smiley=beatnik.gif]   [smiley=beerchug.gif]

[MrRiden]

Good points above all! Reuse of gear oil is for poverty riders like myself but I will admit to springing for a new bottle of the stuff
rich
Who never wears Procyon lotor or touches snow willingly

[billygoat]

 Ahh, I replaced the boot . And just about everything else. Now I am wondering if the leak is comming from the oil sensor! I replaced that too. Do those things leak that easily? I wonder if I got a bad part. :-/ A $14.85 oil sensor should last a few years. I guess both no... the two oils should smell diff. correct? I should be able smell the difference in oil and tell if it's one or the other. :-?