couple of queries

[stevie]

Hi guys wonder if you can help me out with a couple of niggles?

Firstly, I have put new EBC pads in my bike, and have covered about 100 miles since fitting. Although I put a thin coating of copper grease on the back of the pads there is a horrible squeeling noise when applying the brakes "warmed up". Will this noise disappear when the pads are fully bedded in, if not, is there anything I can do to quieten things down at the front end?

Secondly, I appear to have an intermittant fault with what I think may be the neutral switch. Sometimes when out on a ride the neutral light will "disappear". I have tried pulling at the wires under the tranny to no avail. Also when I pull the clutch in to start the bike I can hear a relay clicking under the seat. Then later on the light will re-appear and work fine. Do you think this could be the neutral switch in the gearbox or maybe at the clutch lever, or the relay?

thanks Steve.

[Bob_Roller]

What compound brake pads did you install?

The high metal content compounds probably cause a bit more noise, as compared to the softer graphite and kevlar compounds.

The squealing is the brake pads vibrating in the caliper.

How did the tension springs that hold the pads look ?

If all else fails, there is a product called Disc Brake Quiet, made by Permatex, it's an aerosol spray applied to the back surface of the pad where it contacts the brake piston, the spray is a blue plastic material, that when cured, 'glues' the pad to the piston, reducing it's capability to vibrate in the caliper.

The only switch that directly controls the neutral light, is the switch that is threaded into the transmission.

The clutch switch is just an interlock to prevent starter engagement while the transmission is in gear.

Other than checking the wiring connections for security, there's a good chance that the neutral switch is not happy with the job it's been given, and replacement may be required.

[stevie]

To be honest Bob I don't know the compound make up as I fitted them some time ago and have subsequently discarded the boxes. One of the springs is new (twin disc 80 bike) the other is I guess probably original. No chance they will quieten down with more miles on the clock?

Cheers Steve

[Bob_Roller]

You can ride them for a while, but I would think that say in 500 miles of usage, if they still squeal, they probably won't get much better.

I just replaced my OEM rotors with EBC semi-floating steel rotors, and EBC graphite pads, and they squealed to where it was almost embarassing, but after a 355 mile ride last week, the squeal went away, and the brakes make no noise now.

[stevie]

Cheers Bob

It will probably take me a month or two to get five hundred miles under my belt, but I will give it a try and see what happens.

I have one or two more questions to ask coming up, but don't want to overload the forum with my problems so will drip feed you helpful guys over the next few days.

Thanks Steve

[mikethebike]

I bought some old stock pads for my "other" bike. They squealed like crazy when I first fit them. I removed them an "roughed up" the surface with glass paper (wore a mask-honest) and the squeal went.  Somebody on the Suz*** forum said that old stock "dried out" in storage! I've not heard that before but I don't know what they put the lining material together with these days since asbestos went!  I've heard of clutches getting "high points" due to lumps of a copper type material in the linings.

As regards the neutral light- I had similar problems until I cleaned or renewed the connections onto the switch and the wiring connector that comes down the left side by the frame. The 24 year old wire connectors were just blackened with corrosion.
Mike

[MrRiden]

The Permatex spray works well. I've also heard of sanding a slight radius on the leading edge of a new brake pad but have not done that.
rich

[BooG]

This happened to me a while back,(the neutral light prob). It turned out to be the diode which is contained in a small black tube in the wire leading to the switch. The diode had more or less crumbled with age. I got some diodes from Maplins, looked up the info on the airheads website, and managed to solder the new diode into the tube.....and it worked!! Make sure it goes in the correct way around!

[scuba]

I'm confused now. On my bike there is not any diod/s on wire/s. What kind of diod it is or should be? Btw, the neutral light works properly.

[airhead]

CLUTCH/NEUTRAL SWITCH FAULT ANALYSIS
1. The neutral warning light fails to illuminate with the gearbox in neutral, but the engine
will still start;
a) The lamp may be faulty, access lamp in instrument cluster to check.
b) The wiring may be faulty, check, along with all connections.

2. The neutral warning light fails to illuminate with the gearbox in neutral, and the engine
won't start;
a) The neutral switch may be faulty, remove the wire from the switch
and short to earth to confirm W/L illuminates and engine starts.
b) The wiring may be faulty, check, along with all connections.

3. The neutral warning light illuminates with the gearbox in neutral, but the engine fails
to start;
a) The diode is open circuited, access the diode to check. For twin shock models,
except R65, it can be found in the headlight binnacle on the connections board.
Pre '81 R65 it can be found in the wiring under the Starter Relay, for '81 and later
R65, and all Monoshock models, it is integral with the Relay.
Check between pins 86 and 86a if integral with the Relay.
b) The wiring may be faulty, check, along with all connections.

4. The neutral warning light illuminates in any gear whenever the clutch is pulled;
a) The diode is short circuited, access as above to check.

5. The engine won't start in gear with the clutch pulled in;
a) The clutch switch is faulty.
b) The wiring may be faulty, check, along with all connections.


Bill.........................;-)