Addressing Twitchy Steering

[Mucci]

I know the quick steering is something most see as the R65's big selling point but there are times when it's a little concerning for me.

I find that hitting road inconsistencies in a tight turn can cause the front end to move around more than I'm comfortable with.

On the highway I've realized that if I give the bars a little jolt the front end will wobble back and forth a few times before righting itself.

What I've tried so far:

- Rebuilt forks

- Went back to Lasertec tires. 100/90 and 120/90. They improved handling feel quite a bit but I still have the steering issue.

- Checked for play in the head tube and retorqued everything to spec.

My next idea was to either pick up one of the OEM steering dampers or swap in the LWB swingarm/DS that I've got on hand.

Any thoughts?
Can the OEM steering dampers be rebuilt? I like the old school look as opposed to going with a new unit.

[drhooves]

I hesitate to reply, because my mechanical skills are pretty much tapped at changing the oil and tightening the chain, and I'm not that savvy on the R65 (yet).  But my recent experience may shed some light on this for you.

I bought an '86 R65 last fall and put a few hundred miles on it, and then took it into the shop to have it worked on because it was starting hard and some other minor issues.  During the check out, the mechanic found the steering head was loose.  He tried to tighten it first, but ended up replacing (2) tapered roller bearings and the protection cap.

I was shocked how that fix affected the steering.  Since each bike handles differently, I didn't realize how bad the steering was until it was fixed.  Rock solid now - handles like my old ninja - like on a rail.  No wobble now, and no "skittering" through the corners.  The R65 was sort of goosey on gravel roads prior to that work, and now it seems as steady as my 2015 GS handled.

Maybe some of the other folks here can suggest a different fix - but while I was a bit concerned about the need for the repair (only 14,500 miles on the machine) and not knowing the shop that well, I must say - at least for me - it was money well spent.  Now that I've had a couple of other bikes worked on and even a trade and a new bike purchased from the shop, I can say with some conviction it was the proper repair.

Good luck.

[Barry]

There is supposed to be a small amount of pre-load on the steering head bearings. BMW have a special tool to measure it but I think most people tighten until the bars will just about fall side to side.  If they fall easily with a clunk then the bearings are too loose.

[skippyc]

I bought an '86 R65 last fall and put a few hundred miles on it, and then took it into the shop to have it worked on because it was starting hard and some other minor issues.  During the check out, the mechanic found the steering head was loose.  He tried to tighten it first, but ended up replacing (2) tapered roller bearings and the protection cap.

My 86 had the same issue the grease had hardened in the bearing and locked the rollers. New bearing made a big difference.

[Mucci]

There is supposed to be a small amount of pre-load on the steering head bearings. BMW have a special tool to measure it but I think most people tighten until the bars will just about fall side to side.  If they fall easily with a clunk then the bearings are too loose.

Ahh. I went by the torque spec in the manual. Going by the “just tight enough that the bars don’t smack into the steer stops” meant I had to add a TON more torque.

I ended up having to use a 2’ pipe over my 1/2” ratchet to tighten it enough so that it had a light drag.

Have the brake off right now but I’ll report back once I can take it out for a test.

And if that doesn’t work I scored an OEM steering damper off eBay for $35!

[mrclubike]

The preload adjustment is done with the knurled nut below the top plate the hex nut on the top is just a lock nut to hold it all together
The nut you tightened should only be torqued to a spec after you  adjust the preload
If  it is still to loose you need to loosen lock nut and  tighten the knurled nut down a little more and then re torque the lock nut and check the preload again   

[Kelvin]

My R65LS was twitchy with Metzler Lasertecs front and rear. It was okay if I was really careful with tyre pressures (34/34 psi) but if I let them lose pressure at all, even a couple of psi, the handling got worse.

I find that Michelin Pilot Activs are much better, more stable and more forgiving with changes in pressure.

[Bob_Roller]

OEM steering dampers cannot be rebuilt .

[Mucci]

I tightened up the bearing preload some more, to the point where the bars softly fell to one side while on the center stand. I went for a two hour ride and the twitchy-ness is gone. I can whack the bars at highway speed now and it immediately corrects itself where before it would wobble a few times first.

Very excited to try some canyon roads again!

[orforester]

Mine was in storage for like 30 years or more, for some reason the Steering bearings were worn?  So I replaced them and a ton of other items, but mine is rock solid, corners like a dream, almost like my 2018 RT?  almost

[Mucci]

Even though the bike feels worlds better after tightening the bearing preload I still installed the OEM damper... because it was $35 and looks cool 

[mrclubike]

Thats about the only farckle I don't have 

[Luca]

Sounds like you are all set, but just some food for thought for people thinking of tackling this:

I use a small dab of paint to mark the adjusting collar if im fiddling with the steering head.  That makes for a reference point. 

Some people will also make two marks, one where they get end play and one where they bind the bearings, and then set halfway in between.

One of the best things I did for my front end was replace the sacked out Boge shocks in the rear!  Completely changed the way the bike handled.