Fork torque for 1979 R65

[Jschara]

Can anyone tell me what the torque is for the bolts (upper & lower) on the triple clamps should be that hold the fork tubes in place.  Also the hex screw in the middle that connects to the steering neck.

I can't find it any where.

Thanks,  Jim

[Bob_Roller]

I found these torque values in a Haynes manual, 59-66 ft/lbs for the steering head top bolt, large hex wrench type fastener .

Triple clamp 29.5-33 ft/lbs .

[georgesgiralt]

Hello,
In my BMW shop manual,
The top triple tree screw torque is said to be 80 Nm (+10 tolerance)
The figure for the forks tube in the triple clamp is said to be 40 Nm (+10 tolerance).
Be careful converting these figures into the units your torque wrench is calibrated to....
Hope this helps !

[Jschara]

Thanks guys,  that what I need.

Jim

[Barry]

I presume you already have them loose. If so you may have found the top allen screw can be a real bear to loosen. For that reason I tend towards the light side when torquing that up. I think Bob and Georges  have given you a good figure because I've seen it quoted as high as 88 ftlbs.  I also add a trace of antiseize on the under side of the allen screw head as I reckon it's that relatively large surface area for a screw head that can cause them to be difficult.

[georgesgiralt]

Oh, yes, Barry,
A very long time ago, I had not the time nor the will to change the bearings myself.
So I had a BMW mechanic do the job. A few days after I got the bike back, this nut was broken (the large platter on the top had detached from the core ...) and it took me a lot of efforts to remove it even if broken.... So maybe some manual have a wrong figure printed into them ;-)

[Jschara]

Hi Barry,  You are right about the hex nut being tough to loosen.   And the torque.  After reassembly and torque to 80 NM I found notchy feeling had returned.  I backed off on the hex nut a little and everything moves smoothly one again. 

Jim

[Barry]

I backed off on the hex nut a little and everything moves smoothly one again.

Tightening the cap screw takes up a very small amount of slack in the threads then after that should have  no impact on the steering bearing clearance. What that means in practice is that you have to set the bearing tightness by trial and error.  If the steering is too tight rather than backing of the torque what should be done is to slacken the screw right off then adjust the knurled ring a touch anti clockwise then tighten the cap screw again.  Repeat until the bearing feel right.    While all this is being done the clamps on the stanchions should be loose and only tightened when adjustment is finished