Author Topic: Re: Shifter Linkage Slop - '79 R65 (Read 2335 times)

John T · « **on:** August 27, 2019, 04:34:39 PM »

Guys: I've been reading quite a lot about 'slop' in the shifter linkage.

My question: How much 'slop' or Left to right movement is considered allowable and not doing damage?

I'd appreciate your expertise/experience in this matter.

Thanks,

John T

Barry · « **Reply #1 on:** August 28, 2019, 02:31:10 AM »

First thing to check is if the slop is in the linkage or the lever pivot. I improved mine considerably by simply shiming the axial play out of the lever pivot. I'm sure they came from the factory with excessive axial play which made people think the bent wire linkage was a fault when it was fine if in good condition.

John T · « **Reply #2 on:** August 28, 2019, 09:13:47 AM »

Thanks, Barry. I'll dig in and try to narrow down the location.

Bob_Roller · « **Reply #3 on:** August 29, 2019, 03:16:55 PM »

I had no issues with the original shifter linkage with all the freeplay it had .
One of the sheet metal keepers at the pedal lever end broke in 2007 .
Got an adjustable replacement from Justin, admin of this site .
I adjusted it a little beyond the OEM linkage dimension and it improved shifting a bit, less false neutrals .

dogshome · « **Reply #4 on:** November 02, 2019, 03:02:29 PM »

My experience:
* Coathanger with sheet metal clips and covering boot works if you have small and nimble feet.
* Pedal bush completely goosed and floppy - all of them! = crunch!
* Size 13.5 SIDI boot and coathanger is not adjustable = crunch! crunch! Oops, missed it and false neutral, crunch-crunch gearchanges.
* re-bushed pedal and fitted adjustable rose joints instead of coathanger = clutchless changes, Karma and no crunches.

Save or re-home a gearbox = re-bush and fit rose joints

Re-homing or saving Greyhounds, also as satisfying, but not as cheap

nhmaf · « **Reply #5 on:** November 05, 2019, 08:53:00 PM »

I don't know if Justin still has interest in make any more of those linkages he did, but they were far superior technology - and mine is still going great after 6+ years.

Justin B. · « **Reply #6 on:** November 05, 2019, 11:20:22 PM »

If I had enough paid orders I probably would but it would be cost prohibitive to order just links for one assembly.

dogshome · « **Reply #7 on:** November 06, 2019, 03:10:33 PM »

Two M5 female RH rod ends, a couple of inches of M5 threaded rod is all you need. Re-bushing the pedal and fitting the rods has hugely improved the gear-change.

Oilite bush 12X15X20 £2.00
Rod ends (pair) £6.00
M5 bolt/thread £0.02

Don't need to drill anything at M5 to replace coat-hanger style. M6 may be more applicable if you have the studded ball joint type now.

P.S If you have ever driven a Deux Chevaux with the gear-knob / umbrella handle then that is what the gear-change on my R65 was like. There is a gear in there somewhere. A bit like the fairground soft-toy crane, you'll get one eventually 8-)

mrclubike · « **Reply #8 on:** November 06, 2019, 05:38:46 PM »

The M6 Worked with mine
because mine was originally equipped with the ball type
If it were me I would drill the 5mm out to 6mm
easier to find

r67boxer · « **Reply #9 on:** November 17, 2019, 06:08:41 PM »

I've jumped into this discussion rather late but .... is the above image a retrofitted linkage or OEM? I have an '87 R65 and am just putting those bits on (previous owner tried to make my R65 into a GS ... don't get me started). I noticed that the shift lever end has lots of play. That is, the bolt that fits through it is a bit smaller than the hole in the lever itself. It doesn't appear to be worn as I have several and they all are the same. I thought perhaps there was a bushing but the microfiche doesn't show one. So, is this amount of play normal?

Kevin

Bob_Roller · « **Reply #10 on:** November 17, 2019, 06:41:35 PM »

The picture above is an aftermarket or self made linkage .

Barry · « **Reply #11 on:** November 18, 2019, 03:54:16 AM »

Quote

I noticed that the shift lever end has lots of play. That is, the bolt that fits through it is a bit smaller than the hole in the lever itself. It doesn't appear to be worn as I have several and they all are the same. I thought perhaps there was a bushing but the microfiche doesn't show one. So, is this amount of play normal?

There seems to be several different arrangements for the shift lever bearing from needle roller to a sleeved plain bearing and then no bush at all. Mine has no bush the same as yours and it had play at 6000 miles so I would say it's normal. You could have a sleeve fitted by a Machine shop but the slop you experience is a combination of bearing clearance and excessive end play which allows the lever to rock. I removed a lot of the perceived slop simply by shimming out all of the end play which is easier to do on a diy basis.

dogshome · « **Reply #12 on:** November 18, 2019, 01:21:18 PM »

Mine had a brass bush running on a 12mm hard steel shouldered screw. I cut it out with a junior hacksaw and drilled to 14.something mm with a fettled (hit edges with grinder) 15mm drill. Then pushed a 15*12*20 Olite bush in using the vice, with some Araldite for good measure. Bush cost about £1.50 on Ebay.

My friends R80 had no bush - just running on the aluminium - and did same thing to fix it.

I also took a little axial play out by ever so slightly countersinking where the bolt goes into the foot peg. Probably wouldn't bother with that again as it was a bit twiddly. The shim idea is much better.

The radial / out of round is where all the slop is though. IF you don't mind banging a big drill though a bit of 35 year old kit that you probably can't cheaply replace

r67boxer · « **Reply #13 on:** November 19, 2019, 05:11:29 PM »

See images. The very top of the linkage is what I was talking about. The bushing 'pivot' is fine (as shown in the image above posted by dogshome).

Kevin

mrclubike · « **Reply #14 on:** November 19, 2019, 08:03:13 PM »

just search
"6mm heim joint"
Lots of them on eBay

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Author Topic: Re: Shifter Linkage Slop - '79 R65 (Read 2335 times)