New-to-Me 1982 R65 Maintenance

[Bob_Roller]

I installed the Luftmeister version of rubber isolaters in place of solid spacers on the front rngine mount bolt .
I paid $30US in 1982 for this and I wouldn't do it again .
As has been mentioned, carb balance, ignition timing would probably help .
I'm just shy of 90,000 miles 145,000 km on my '81 R65 (original owner ) and I cannot detect any unusual vibration band, when I first got my '81 there was a pronouned vibration at 4250 rpm, came on like a switch was turned on .

[georgesgiralt]

Hi Bob,
I beat you ! My '82 has done more than 200 000 km with me on the saddle ... Like you, I bought her new when I saw her desperately living in the dealer's show room in 1984 ...
I'll retire next year, and plan to rebuild the engine, to take her to my ultimate death ...

[badbmwbrad]

[size=14]Installation of an Emerald Island Alpha electronic ignition corrected the elevated idle RPM condition.[/size]

[badbmwbrad]

[size=14]The Emerald Island Alpha ignition system is installed.  This eliminated the elevated engine idle RPM.  Now we're trying to figure out how to quell the engine vibrations.  Short-term fix is rubber mounting the engine at front mount.  Long-term fix is to install an R80 engine.[/size]

[Sejati]

Glad to hear that, as I have same issue here...

[badbmwbrad]

[size=14]The engine vibration problem has been largely resolved by installation of rubber bushings (vibration dampener) on the front motor mount.  The vibration dampener is made from a '55 Chevy motor mount rubber bushing. 

The rubber bushing arrives too thick and needs to be cut into thirds.  One method to accomplish this is to clamp a bolt in a vice then slip the bushing over the bolt.  This provides a stable platform to cut the bushing using a hooked drywall knife.

The rubber bushing is sandwiched between a pair of fender washers.  Fastenal sells various sized rubber-lined sealing washers.  These sealing washers were placed rubber-to-rubber against the bushing to form a vibration dampener assembly.

The vibration dampener is substituted for the small spacer (located between engine and frame) as found on either side of the engine's front motor mounting rod.   My understanding is the motor mount torque should be reduced from 50 to 12 ft-lbs.  A redundant means for maintaining threaded fastener torque should be employed e.g. use of Loctite, drill/crosspin or perhaps substitution of a Nylock nut.    [/size]

[Sejati]

Would you share some photo of this result?

[badbmwbrad]

[size=14]1/2" 18-8 stainless steel neoprene bonded sealing washers are ordered from Fastenal as stock unit 0173339.  Place the cut-down '55 Chevy motor mount rubber doughnut between the sealing washers placed rubber-to-rubber and insert between the engine and frame.

A Nylock nut is used in place of the BMW motor mount nut.[/size]

[badbmwbrad]

[size=14]The R65 just completed a 2000-mile tour from New England to West Virginia.
 Aside from a dead  battery and difficult cold engine engine start, the bike ran well.  There was sediment in the carburetor float bowl and we attempted to clean out the fuel orifice (enables fuel to enter the enrichener section of float bowl) in the Bing carb float bowls.  The cold engine repeatedly fires on one cylinder during cold-engine start.  I suspect one of the spark plug wires is bad.  The grey crack-o-matic grey was preemptively replaced prior to the trip.

The battery was only one year old but it could barely crank the cold engine.  A new battery cured the problem.   [/size]

[mrclubike]

[size=14]Installation of an Emerald Island Alpha electronic ignition corrected the elevated idle RPM condition.[/size]

Is the timing curve correct on the EI unit
They had problems with the advance not being being what it   was supposed to be
I tried three different Ignition control modules and all three would only advance 20 deg instead of the 26 they were supposed to
I did notice they now have an adjustable one

So mine now lives in the spare parts kit and I rebuilt the original one and it works good

[mrclubike]

I have installed a 37/11 final drive and it was the second best modification I did to it after Converting all the bulbs to LED

[badbmwbrad]

[size=14]That's a neat modification.  Did it improve the bike's highway fuel economy?

The R65 I'm working on has terrible cold-start function.  The engine cranks for at least 15 seconds - firing on one cylinder - before the right cylinder catches. 

We've cleaned the float bowl orifice which allows fuel to fill the fuel enrichener's partitioned-off chamber on the float bowl.
 The carburetors were rebuilt over the weekend including new O-rings and diaphragms and high-speed, 5000 RPM balancing.
 The battery is new < 1-month old. 

The grey-colored crack-o-matic coil has been replaced with a unit from Motorrad Elektrik and the ignition is a new Emerald Island Alpha device. 

The spark plug high tension leads/caps are original.  I suggested verifying proper 5K ohms in cap and installing non-resistor spark plugs. [/size]

[tiggum]

As to the plugs, my local NAPA shop recently had the correct non-resistor plugs by NGK (mid range is BP6ES; NGK stock # 7333) and they were only $1.90 per unit.  I'd suggest buying several sets; some non-resistor plugs are being discontinued.

What year and model did the 37/11 rear drive come from?  My LS is geared 32/9, which is a 3.55:1, and a 37/11 would be 3.36, which sounds a lot more appealing.  Speedo correction....will you do it?

[Barry]

The R65 I'm working on has terrible cold-start function.  The engine cranks for at least 15 seconds - firing on one cylinder - before the right cylinder catches. 

The enrichers are a bit crude to say the least but they shouldn't stop it starting. In my limited experience an airhead will start absolutely instantly if it receives the correct mixture.  Any degree of cranking  suggests something is wrong so it's just a case of figuring out what.  Assuming all jets are clean and clear including the one at the bottom of the float bowl that feeds the enricher well, the first thing to check is are the enrichers correctly assembled. The enricher discs have a pear shaped slot which should always be towards the top  of the disc with the series of fuel holes at the bottom. The narrow end of the pear shaped slot should point towards the cylinder head.  If these conditions are satisfied it's correctly assembled.  With the carbs installed the enricher operating levers should be touching their respective stops when the enricher lever is fully on or fully off and both carbs should have the lever touch the stops at the same time.

[Bob_Roller]

What is your starting sequence ??