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Author Topic: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)  (Read 1648 times)

Offline Soeren

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To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« on: May 09, 2019, 04:59:36 PM »
Just godt this oil pump cover from a reputable seller.

It has some minor scratches and burrs to it, is this acceptable?
'83 BMW R65

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2019, 05:06:00 PM »
Be interesting to know how those divots were taken out of it, especially as one ot them is outside the o-ring.

I'd like to see a little more marking form the pump gears, the absence of which makes me wonder about how well sized the pump body and gears are.

I'd like to see photos of the gears and the body before offering an opinion.

Also a photo of the cover from directly above.
1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline Soeren

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2019, 05:13:47 PM »
Just to clearfy, this is a all new never used cover, just unpacked it the other day.
'83 BMW R65

Offline georgesgiralt

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2019, 05:23:49 PM »
Hello,
I would grind it a very little bit on a glass plate covered with either valve paste or wet extra fine sandpaper and see if the burrs and sticky stuff disappear. Be gentle and do not remove much.

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2019, 09:58:29 PM »
Quote
Just to clearfy, this is a all new never used cover, just unpacked it the other day.

That explains the lack of gear marks on it. I was tryign to figure how the pump hhad ever made pressure and how I was goign to break to you that you were looking at a very expensive machining job on the engine cases to teak an insert oil pump.

i would be sending tha cover back with the enquiry as to why they sent it out in the first place. Not acceptable
1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline mrclubike

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2019, 10:16:13 PM »
If I had the time to wait i would  send it back but if i wanted to get it going right away  I would just buff it out on some glass

I may buff it out even if it wasn't nicked the machining marks are quite visible

I am used to fixing brand new parts
This is a picture of the nipples on a Brand new  OEM Jeep  Radiator that i got  >:(
The wife needed her car running so I managed to get it to work
« Last Edit: May 09, 2019, 10:22:05 PM by Mrclubike »
1982 R65 running tubeless Snowflakes
2004 R1150R

Offline Soeren

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2019, 11:16:54 AM »
This is my old cover after a few minutes whit grit 400/600/1200. I'm considering using it, what are your thoughts?
« Last Edit: November 06, 2020, 06:59:52 PM by Justin B. »
'83 BMW R65

Offline mrclubike

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2019, 01:25:40 PM »
The issue is the groves that go from the suction side to the pressure side or burrs sticking up to scratch the rotor

Small depressions  in the cover should not be a problem
1982 R65 running tubeless Snowflakes
2004 R1150R

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2019, 03:43:15 PM »
it is impossible to measure the depth of the grooves from a photo.

I'd do a bit more work until those are no longer visible. if the o-ring channel  is uncompromised I would then go ahead and reuse it
1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline Soeren

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #9 on: May 18, 2019, 09:58:41 AM »
I opted to sand it down a bit, as return shipping was just not making any sense.

This is what I have now, the new cover on the left is clearly not plane, the outer lower right side has a low spot and the middle has a low spot. What should I make of this?



And a bonus question. I have been trying to weigh my new rods, the overall weight is within 1g, and the same goes for the big-end, I got good consistent results with my setup which is best suited to weigh big-ends.

I am having a hard time getting good results weighing the small ends with my fabricobbled setup, but can I conclude that if the overall weight is within 1g, and the big end is within 1g, then the small end must be pretty close too?
« Last Edit: November 06, 2020, 07:01:58 PM by Justin B. »
'83 BMW R65

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: To use or not to use (oil pump cover)
« Reply #10 on: May 19, 2019, 02:12:10 AM »
A but more work required on the new cover to get the surface flat - I use a glass cutting board that is made of some hard to break glass and some oil on it to hold the "wet-n-dry' sand paper. I would finish with an oilstone, I have one large enough, you may not - in which case I'd get the cover flat with say 360grit and finish/polish with 800 (or even 1200 if I was not feeling too lazy).

It would seem I was correct in my suspicion of the grooves in the old cover - by the time you get those out there will be insufficient O-ring groove left.


To turn to your rods, are you trying to simply make them overall the same weight or are you trying to balance them "end for end".

If the latter - forget it, just balance for over all weight - I use a piece of bar with two holes drilled in the ends, I then make two wire hooks on which to hang the rods. Next I set the balance of the bar, with the hooks already fitted by simply moving the point where a third wire holds the bar.

Next I use my kitchen scales that are accurate to about .5g to get the rods close before hanging them on the hooks and removing metal from the heaviest until they balance.

if you are interested balancing "end-for-end" can be accomplished using the same basic setup but simply bending up a wire support to hold up the end of the rod you are not balancing.

It is a slow process and when you think you have the end-for-end correct, you need to re-check the overall balance.

BUT, whilst balancing the rods and pistons to the same weight will yield noticeable improvements in engine "smoothness' (lack of vibration), in the rev range that our bikes operate, end-for-end, not so much.

The last rods I balanced end-for-end were the ones in the KLE and then only because the overall weights were near identical and seeing as I had gone to all the trouble to make a balancing jig I wanted to use it. The end-for end was also very close, I initially made one pass with the angle grinder and made things worse, so most of the next 45 minutes was spent getting them back to being as good as they were before I messed with them.

Can't say I actually achieved anything as the KLE is a vertical parallel twin and would vibrate like 40 bastards except for the balancing shaft and I have neither time or equipment to start messing with that.

Sorry, forgot to say that up to the 11,500rpm redline it is very smooth, thinks almost entirely I suspect to the balance shaft.
1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |