!!! CARB leak and problems !!! (Part 20 ;-))

[georgesgiralt]

Well, your floats are properly installed, But they are weighting on the needle and the little spring on the needle is compressed. So the needle closed BEFORE the float where parallel to the base of the carb... 
You have to check the float level with the carb in position and fuel petcock open. Lift the float and check when it gets to stop the fuel flow. if the float is parallel to the carb base, it is OK.

[Barry]

Agree.

While it's possible to do them upside down you have to be aware that the float valve has a spring load pin. Upside down is a method given in some books but it's no longer recommended.

[guyom]

great ! Thanks to all ! so i can continue my investigation about a potential leak and idle !
G

[svejkovat]

I was just reading a similar thread at bmwmoa and one of the posters reminded me of how I fixed my leaking bing once.

The fitment between the bowl and float must be very very close on these carbs because I managed once to tweak the float carriage ever so slightly once on reassembly.  From then on it leaked continuously.  The float was literally sticking/binding on the bowl. Eventually I deduced this and VERY gently tweaked the float sideways back to better center and the leaking disappeared.

[guyom]

thanks i will try that too make some test and leak looks to stop... after 15 minutes... so i will try to fix the idle now.

[donbmw]

I fought a carb leak on one carb for a while. Finally found I had a pin hole from corrosion in the bowl. I was close to the over flow tube.

[jp9094]

My understanding is that the bottom of the float should be parallel to the body of the carb, but the carb should be held at a slight angle like it is mounted on the bike, not parallel to the ground.  See Boxer2valve.com (Wunderlich) for the video on rebuilding the carbs on a r 90 to see what I mean.

FWIW