Should this even be running?

[mrclubike]

Thanks, Georges.  Now if I could find some in the US!  Would you have a part number by any chance?

Here you go

[wilcom]

I'm not sure if you've heard of Mouser

No I don't know anyone anymore. A couple of life times ago I had a 2nd Class Radio/Telephone License and worked on Microwave links and air to ground stuff & ordered lots of parts...... but now days I'm/was, just a radio shack kinda guy

[georgesgiralt]

Well, the male part, if you look at it carefully is often molded at the factory.  So AMP sell a huge lot of the industrial version (mold, plastic, license, etc...) and not so much of the discrete version ...
Have you asked Kalitec about shipping to the USA ? The set is in a small plastic pouch and can be put in an envelope reducing costs to a minimum. I've found them very helpful (I asked for dies for my ratchet crimping tool and they  had none. But a week later, bingo! the dies where on their site, at "a price" 

[Tony Smith]

[

The ckt is easy enough to cluge together but the connector is an issue. Is there any off the shelf connector that will plug into the bean can side of the wiring?

JPT 3-way )JPT stands for "Junior Power Timer" - alternatively a trip to your local electronics supply company would fit you out with a set of alligator clip leads which would be perfectly adequate for testing purposes.


To jump in on your other problem - no way is your bike idling with 32 degrees of advance - some numb-nutted idiot has put your flywheel on out of time.

You can set the timing with a vacuum gauge, or you could use a scribe to make a temporary TDC mark and then wing your timing marks (you would have to be monstrously wrong to do any damage - and if you over advance it, your engine will tell you fairly promptly)

What I would do is mark TDC on the alternator rotor bolt and then make a temporary 90 degree mark from that - half that is 45 degrees, so a tad under that would put your fully advanced timing (the only one worth worrying about) firmly in the ball park.

[mrclubike]

To jump in on your other problem - no way is your bike idling with 32 degrees of advance - some numb-nutted idiot has put your flywheel on out of time.

That is what i was thinking
But if that was the case the timing marks would be off by 72 deg
The timing marks would not show up at all when timing with the light
Also he says he checked For TDC   roughly while looking thru the spark plug hole and said the OT mark appeared fairly close

So i am thinking  there is some sort of electrical noise messing  with  the timing light

That is why I say "IFM" (Its "F"ing Magic)when it comes to electricity

[Tony Smith]

Also he says he checked For TDC   roughly while looking thru the spark plug hole and said the OT mark appeared fairly close

Missed that! Agree, weird electrical intereference with timing light - solution suggestion :- try a different timing light.

[georgesgiralt]

Or plug the timing light on an external battery NOT connected in any way to the bike.

[wilcom]

  I'm in Arizona now talking on my phone so bear with me I did check for the top dead center and it was you like to see the OT Mark in the hole I bought another Fat timing light it's same as the other I use both cylinders to do the pickup and I went and bought a brand new timing light and checked it no change and I got the Arizona on that same bike running 6000 RPM for 300 miles never missed a beat

[wilcom]

  I'm in Arizona now talking on my phone so bear with me I did check for the top dead center and it was you like to see the OT Mark in the hole I bought another Fat timing light it's same as the other I use both cylinders to do the pickup and I went and bought a brand new timing light and checked it no change and I got the Arizona on that same bike running 6000 RPM for 300 miles never missed a beat

[wilcom]

Sorry for the voice screw-ups the recognition isn't always so true but I wanted to add that I used an auxiliary battery to on the timing light with a charger on it

[mrclubike]

    I bought another Fat timing light it's same as the other I use both cylinders to do the pickup 

 Are you running both plug wires thru the inductive pick up at the same time

You only need to run one wire thru it at a time makes no difference which one 

[wilcom]

.

    I bought another Fat timing light it's same as the other I use both cylinders to do the pickup 

I meant to say I use both one at each time left and right

 Are you running both plug wires thru the inductive pick up at the same time

You only need to run one wire thru it at a time makes no difference which one 

[wilcom]

I'm buttoning it up and riding it to Arizona in the morning and back on Sunday( about 700 miles) I'm optimistic about my chances of returning.

I did close to 800 miles over the three days and it ran fine, started normally every time. Most of the time I was running at 5800-6000 rpm and was indicating just shy of 80mph. This kept me faster than the trucks and slower than the cars.

I'll wait for the tech get together in 3 weeks. I think I'm searching for "why am I reading this" and not why is the bike ill timed.

[wilcom]

I did close to 800 miles over the three days and it ran fine, started normally every time. Most of the time I was running at 5800-6000 rpm and was indicating just shy of 80mph. This kept me faster than the trucks and slower than the cars.

I'll wait for the tech get together in 3 weeks. I think I'm searching for "why am I reading this" and not why is the bike ill timed.

Well the Tech session was drawing near and it was idling a lil lumpy so I thought it would be a good idea to adjust the idle a tad. Didn't want to show up to the BMW brain trust without doing as much as I could to make the bike right.....{{WRONG}}

In a short time I went from idling rough to NOT IDLING AT ALL. If there was ever a poster boy for "If it Ain't broke don't Fix it" I'm perfect for the job.

I didn't make it to the tech session with fouled carbs but started myself on a new issue of freshening up the carbs. I ordered new floats, float needles, gaskets and O-rings and a jug of Berryman's and put the carbs on the bench.

After much agony and having the carbs off and on multiple times I have a smooth idle and no off idle lag and runs thru the gears fine up to 65 mph.

I have the throttle cables adjusted where I have a little slack at idle I have checked the butterflies(did not remove during the regasketing)and positively no light showing in the closed position. The chokes are totally off.

I used 1/2 a turn to set up the carbs and the bike idles at 900 rpm warm. Very smooth idle, no lumps or dropped beats, just perfect..............now here is where my understanding of the carbs runs off and hides.

I checked the idle adjustment screws and I cannot effect any change in the idle.

Shouldn't I be able to screw the adjusters in and kill the fuel flow and stop the motor? I read where you run the adjustment in until it falls off and out til it falls off and go back to the happy spot in the middle. With mine if seems all happy!

[R65Guy]

Shouldn't I be able to screw the adjusters in and kill the fuel flow

I thought the adjusters control air flow instead of fuel flow.  A bad oring can play havoc.