Forks And Torques

[BPT]

I've got the front wheel off as well and need some clarification from the manual (yes, I promise I do read it).  On the torque table, it lists "Clamp bolts" and "Allen bolt" and the torque spec is very different between the two.  Can you tell me which is which and what the other is referring to?  I looked at the diagrams and, naturally, they aren't worded exactly the same way or are a bit vague.  I'd think that the thing I've circled is a Clamp bolt.  Is that correct?  If so, what it the Allen bolt (or maybe I don't have that feature)?

[Tony Smith]

Don't get hung up on torque figures. There are places you should use a torque wrench (cylinder heads, shaft drive flange, pressure plate mounting bolts and a few others)  and other places where it simply isn't needed.

All of the bolts on th eforks respond very nicely when tightened to the German figure of "Gut-n-tight" except for the drain bolts, those you should be wary of and tighen just enough so that the loctite blue you put on the threads oozes out nicely, you do not want to murder these threads because fitting a helicoil or a tinesert is a pita.

[BPT]

Fair enough.  I figured it wasn't super critical but wanted to be sure.  I thought I'd do the proper thing and read the manual, follow instructions but, of course, the manual isn't clear enough or contradicts itself.

    Thanks

[Barry]

I have never used a torque wrench on those bolts but for what it's worth the BMW spec is 11 ftlb and that sounds about right.

[BPT]

Thanks Barry.  It sounds like they must be the Clamp bolts then, which is what I thought.  I wasn't positive though since Clymer also has an Allen bolt in the front axle section and it's spec is double that.

[Tony Smith]

What is super-critical in respect to the bolt you circled is the ORDER of tightening.

If you have had the forks completely off the bike then.

1. After forks are re-inserted into the triple trees, ensure that the forks are parallel by whatever method you favour.

2/. Fit wheel and axle bolt - tighten axle bolt.


3. With front wheel on the ground, compress the forks several times - then and only then, tighten the axle clamp bolts.

4. fit mudguard and tighten bolts.


The reason you do it this way is that my compressing he forks after tightening the axle bolt you enhance the chances of allowing the forks to remain parallel. You to the mudguard bolts last for the same reason.

[BPT]

Thanks for that Tony.  I was wondering about that (the order and whether it mattered).  I did it that way but just by chance.

I did not have everything apart, just the front wheel removed. I'm doing tires and brake pads for the first time.

I'll post a picture from the manual that is what started my questions here.  Regardìng the torque, it lists 3 things associated with the front axle and these are what I couldn't figure out. In the instructions and the diagrams, they don't use the exact same words so I couldn't figure out which was which, or which part I might not have.

[BPT]

This one: