Unknown item in service kit

[peteremc]

I'm doing a service on a 1982 R65LS and purchased a service kit from Motobins and it has this in it and I have no idea what it is for. It is completely flat. I'm certain someone on here will know what it is for.

Thanks in advance

[Bob_Roller]

It's a shim that you put into the oil filter cavity after you put the filter in, it sits on the inner liner in the filter area  .

It prevents deformation of the large o-ring on the inner liner in the filter cavity .

[peteremc]

Thanks Bob. I just popped the oil filter cover off and found where it goes. Can't remember putting one in 12 months ago! Must be encroaching years.

While I'm at it on the topic of servicing, I have a Haynes Manual and the recommended service schedule seems to be completely over the top. I have done 2,000klms (about 1,200 miles) in the last 12 months. Would people with much more experience than me think I would be wise and would it be necessary to change all oils including gearbox, drive shaft and final drive?

Thanks again

[peteremc]

And while we have the brains trust on line....

My rear brake is abysmal. I don't use it much at all, but I have just about nil braking. The drum looks good and the shoes look OK but are very, very shiny and smooth. Is it safe to "rough them up", very carefully with some fine grit sandpaper to see if I can get some friction happening?

[Tony Smith]

Thanks Bob. I just popped the oil filter cover off and found where it goes. Can't remember putting one in 12 months ago! Must be encroaching years.

Hopefully you measured your canister depth to discover if you need any shim at all (your bike is of a model that does not necessarily need a shim) or two shims and maybe a gasket on the oil filter housing cover. - If you simply used the gasket because it was in the kit, please do the measuring, your previous owner might it got it right, or you might just be following his lack of knowledge.

While I'm at it on the topic of servicing, I have a Haynes Manual and the recommended service schedule seems to be completely over the top. I have done 2,000klms (about 1,200 miles) in the last 12 months. Would people with much more experience than me think I would be wise and would it be necessary to change all oils including gearbox, drive shaft and final drive?

Thanks again

Wow! You did almost as many miles as I did in the last 12 months on my R65. I did 1,500 miles, mostly up to Yungaburra on Sundays for breakfast.

I change the oil every 6 months regardless of use (although that probably could be stretched, but then I'd have to set calendar reminders to change the oil - for the present June and January is easy to remember.

I also change gearbox, driveshaft and final drive oil 12 monthly.

[Tony Smith]

And while we have the brains trust on line....

My rear brake is abysmal. I don't use it much at all, but I have just about nil braking. The drum looks good and the shoes look OK but are very, very shiny and smooth. Is it safe to "rough them up", very carefully with some fine grit sandpaper to see if I can get some friction happening?

They are not the worlds greatest brake. You can improve them by taking your used shoes to Knights brakes and having them re-lined with a better brake material, or you can just ignore it - you do have two front ones after all.

Going for a run between Yorkeys and Holloways early in the morning when there are no cars about and doing repeated "max effort" stops with the rear brake only - till it all starts to smell funny, will do more good than manually trying to rough up the shoes.

[peteremc]

Ahh, the brains trust is on line.

Measure from where to where Tony to get the depth of the oil filter housing? And I presume compare this measurement to the depth of the filter?

I asked about gearbox oils etc because when I check levels, the oil looks like the day I put it in, a bit over 12 months ago. I will change them all then.

Thanks for the tips on the rear brake. I could be out on the 100kph Yorkey's stretch tomorrow morning! If that doesn't work I predict I'll find myself at Knights. Like I said, I don't use it much and have 2 excellent ones up front, but would feel a bit more comfortable if it did something!

Cheers

[Tony Smith]

Ahh, the brains trust is on line.

Measure from where to where Tony to get the depth of the oil filter housing? And I presume compare this measurement to the depth of the filter?

I asked about gearbox oils etc because when I check levels, the oil looks like the day I put it in, a bit over 12 months ago. I will change them all then.

http://www.bmwr65.org/YaBB2.612/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1403896790/5

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oil.htm

http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html

This guy is truly anal - a set of calipers will do the measuring just nicely
http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100rt/oilFilterCanister/index.html

If you need any more info I'll sic Snowbum onto you.

[Barry]

I firmly believe the recommendations for gearbox, drive shaft and final drive are way over the top.  I got fed up with draining perfectly clean oil out of them and finding negligible fuzz on the drain plug magnets so I've moved to an annual inspection rather than an annual change. The only real concern is water contamination and I never have found any sign in the gearbox and final drive and only a touch in the drive shaft.  If you can keep the oil clean  it has to be good for many years at your annual mileage. The full synthetic oil I use is supposedly rated for life time fill in a car so it should last a while. There is no concern about the oil or additives wearing out. Only contamination whether that be wear particles or water should require it to be changed.

Changing engine oil at 1200 miles is a harder question.  If most or all of those 1200 miles were done on trips of 10 miles or more so that the oil got up to temperature then the oil and filter will still be perfectly fine and I would happily run it for another year.  My own use includes a lot of short commutes in the winter so that doesn't apply.

[peteremc]

Thanks Tony and Barry.

Absolutely no sign of any contamination in any of my oils and not even any fine fuzz on the drain plugs. But I changed 'em all anyway.

All journeys on this bike are way more than 10 miles. I have educated my wife over quite a long time that motorcyclists will always find the long way to get from point A to point B.

For those who may be interested, I cautiously touched up my rear brake shoes and drum with 400 grit sandpaper, and then carefully cleaned up the product of the sanding and then applied a cautious amount of brake cleaner to both and dried with a cloth. The difference from yesterday's completely non-functioning rear brake to what I had this morning was quite remarkable. It worked fantastically.

Cheers

[mrclubike]

I'm doing a service on a 1982 R65LS and purchased a service kit from Motobins and it has this in it and I have no idea what it is for. It is completely flat. I'm certain someone on here will know what it is for.

Thanks in advance

THIS SHIM IS
ABSOLUTELY NEEDED IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE LATE STYLE CANISTER
It protects the infamous $2000.00 O'ring from being cut by the edge of the oil filter canister
YOU WILL HAVE OIL PRESSURE FAILURE IF IT FAILS
You adjust the O'ring crush by adding or removing gaskets  or adding shims -NOT REMOVING SHIMS-!!!!