Valve Adjustment - First Time

[BPT]

I need to do it and this will be my first attempt.    I was supposed to get a training session on this from Perry shortly before he died so now I'm on my own.  Soooo ...... Is there anywhere online or anywhere else that you all would recommend that has a good and proper method? By that I mean both getting it done but also having clear but thorough instructions?
I have the Clymer manual and I have experience doing valves on old VW's (long time ago though).  But I know several here will have some tips or better instructions.
Also, some time in the last few months there were a couple of threads on here where valve adjustment came up and some tips were given. Does anybody know which threads they were? Seems like they weren't solely about valves....
Sorry, I'm still having laptop trouble and this forum isn't the easiest with my phone.....

Thanks for any tips, tricks, suggestions, don't forget this, don't do this, etc.

                  BPT

[jp9094]

I guess it depends on what model you have. Chris Harris has a YouTube video on how to do it . I just last week did mine for the first time.

Some problems I encountered was noticing when the "OT" mark is in the window. On my '83 r65 LS it is on a small aluminum metal tab, and I missed it at least 4 times!

Once I got that sorted out, I had trouble working out which side was ready to be adjusted. Part of the problem was that there was no valve clearance present.

Found the answer online. Simply put, check the push rod tubes that actuate the tappets. The side ready to be adjusted will be loose and rotate. Those on the other side will be tight.

Hope this helps. It seemed to make a big difference to my bike both starting and idling wise and mileage wise.

Goo luck.

[wilcom]

I believe this was the thread you are looking for.

http://www.bmwr65.org/YaBB2.612/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1491912941/6#6

[BPT]

I have an 83, not LS.  I've got some idling issues as well and was told I should do the valves first before messing with the carbs.  I was also told to not just check the clearance but also for some other kind of slop but can't remember what he called it - lash maybe? And, unfortunately, can't remember what he told me to look for.

I've seen some of Chris Harris' videos and was hoping he had one for this. Thanks.

I'll check that link Wilcom.  Seems like there were two around the same time and both had tips scattered throughout.  I'll look at that one shortly, thanks.

[wilcom]

I was also told to not just check the clearance but also for some other kind of slop

Could be they were adjusting end play as the second thing they were adjusting.

For you first outing for valve adjustment don't worry about the end play, will not effect your carb or timing stuff. You'll get to "end play" in the second semester

[BPT]

Hmm, that could be. It's very fuzzy now but I remember him telling me to check that also and it was at the same time he was telling me that I needed to do that before I tinkered with the carbs too much. For some reason I'm thinking he said it was related bur can't remember why.

Ok, I still want simple directions for adjusting for now but, since you brought it up, what would the end play affect?  Is that simple to explain here?

[wilcom]

since you brought it up, what would the end play affect?

Less noise is the only reason I know, I'm sure someone will chime in if there is a host of issues if not adjested.

The rocker moving sideways adds to the music in the valve gear not just the rocker smacking the end of the valve.............. That being said, After owning 6 airheads and over 100,000 miles, I have never adjusted for end play and nothing has fallen off.

[BPT]

Well, what the guy was telling me about was definitely functional and, I'm thinking, maybe important?  Certainly not something like noise, they'd just shakeep their heads and smile about that.
Next time I'm up there I'll ask him.  Need to talk to him about tires anyway.

So, back to basic valve adjusting.......

[Barry]

Too much rocker arm end play will make your valve gear sound noisy but won't have an effect on carb adjustments. As has been said forget about end play for now until you have mastered valve clearances.

Setting the valve clearances also makes small changes to valve timing and that can impact on idle mixture and speed. This is why it is always recommended to set Valve clearances before adjusting the carbs.

As to how to do it, the riders manual covers this as do Clymers/ Haynes manuals. The riders manual is very good and covers all normal service items. If you don't have one you can download a copy here:  http://www.bmwr65.org/YaBB2.612/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1271881232

I'm not remotely a fan of you tube videos as the few I've seen always seem to have one common characteristic. They like the sound of their own voice too much and will not get to the point. They spend the first 10 minutes talking but saying nothing useful.  If that isn't bad enough some of them are butchers that I wouldn't let near my bike.  You tube would be  my last place to look for advice when there are so many other resources.

[tunnelrider]

Hear hear Barry!  I never had a second thought against purchasing a Clymer repair manual when I bought my R65, over trawling through hours of useless you tube guesses.  Occasionally I'll let myself watch one but end up laughing at irrelevant stuff I can't concentrate afterwards.  Valve clearance adjusting is just one of those maintenance tasks that's simple, sometimes a bit of a PITA 'cause of oil drips ha ha but starts opening up the workings of your bike to understand esp as you get to know your bike and makes a surprising difference sometimes, as long as the engine is rotated to TO (Top Dead Centre) again after the first side has been adjusted BPT.  Then re check your work.

One of the things I do when doing valve clearances is slacken the head nuts by a quarter turn then retorque them. Does anyone think this is necesarry? The Clymer manual suggests this for a tune up.  It's kinda put me off doing valve clearances too often.  Make sense though... But I guess if the bike is running ok torques are prob pretty good?  Sorry BPT don't mean to hijack your post. Cheers.

[BPT]

I agree, Barry, there's a lot of drivel and just plain ridiculous stuff on YouTube.  However, I do use it frequently and have found it very helpful for things where a photo just won't do.  Unfortunately you do have to weed through the garbage to find those good ones.  I am enough of a skeptic that I never just believe the first thing that I see there.

In this case, I was just hoping to use the brilliance of the members of this forum to tell me where I might find one of those gems.  Or any good step-by-step guide (just threw YouTube out as an example).  I know that the folks here can direct me to something helpful and avoid exactly what you are talking about - the useless and dangerous.

For now, for the first time, I was hoping to find something simple but thorough.  And I especially like the hints like "Don't worry too much about this..."  and "Make absolutely sure you don't forget this.....".

As mentioned, I used to do this regularly on the VW's so it's familiar to me, just wanted to get the particulars of the BMW.  And I know that there are some suggestions out there that can make it easier, meaning not just easier to do, but easier to get it correctly done the first time.

One specific question:  what is the consensus on the clearances? For the exhaust, .008 seems to be common but the inlet is all over the place.  I've seen .006 in several places, also .004 & even .002 (the User Manual).  (that's another reason I wanted to ask here first because I've seen a lot of references about how the different manuals and instructions are not always correct and/or consistent).

I'm currently looking at the thread linked above, my Clymer and Duane's write up on w6rec.  But still accepting tips and suggestions...........

           Thanks again!

[Barry]

The exact clearance isn't that important as long as both cylinders are the same. BMW did vary them a few times and then settled on 0.004" inlet 0.008" exhaust.

As consistency is the most important part of the whole process my tip is while checking with the feeler gauge press  on the adjuster with your thumb to take up any slack in the valve train.

[BPT]

Ah-ha!  That thumb thing was something I knew I'd read around here but couldn't remember where.  Exactly the type of thing I was looking for, Thanks!

And the one consistent thing that I keep reading is that the exact clearances aren't particularly important.  But since this is the first time I wanted a good starting point.  I know that further down the road it's more of keeping track of any changes that's important.

Your numbers were what I was going to use since it seemed a good average, unless someone hear said differently.

Thanks again for your assistance.

[Billmc]

Did mine this past weekend:
Jacked up the bike with my new Harbor Freight Motorcycle Jack, which put it at a comfortable level for this weak back of mine. Popped the covers off,(after popping open a Schiner Bach) pulled the plugs, stuck in a straw and rotated the back wheel while in 5th gear.

WAAAAY easier than laying on your back in the dirt during a HOT Texas summer afternoon adjusting VW valves....  

[BPT]

Ah, yes, there's a good tip....... don't forget the Shiner!
Up here in the northern part of the Lone Star state, this past week would've been perfect with unusually low temps - into the 50's for lows a couple of days ago. But, of course, I can't get organized enough for that. Yesterday was beautiful but today someone has flipped a switch and we'll be in the 90's with heat index of over 100F. And extra high humidity to boot.