Questions always Questions

[Adrian]

Two things are bothering my little grey cells today.
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One is - Does it matter which way around the little wirs go on the front brake - brake light swithch.
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And two - I have a fully restore and converted motor that needs running in - is it - as some suggest - correct to buy "Running In Oil" or should I just use good old mineral oil for the process.
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Thanks .... Adrian

[Barry]

1.)   No it doesn't

2.)   Normal mineral oil will be fine. What technique are you planning to use ?   It's usual to avoid very low revs and very high revs  but don't baby it. Use enough revs to create  gas pressure behind the rings and make them seat.  I would run it between 3000 and 4500 RPM initially.

[Adrian]

1.)   No it doesn't

2.)   Normal mineral oil will be fine. What technique are you planning to use ?   It's usual to avoid very low revs and very high revs  but don't baby it. Use enough revs to create  gas pressure behind the rings and make them seat.  I would run it between 3000 and 4500 RPM initially.

The engineering shop recommended keeping it below 4000 revs but varying the revs all the time - so some time at maybe 3 - 4000 in normal use and driopping a gear to have the motor rev more freely for a while - being careful not to go mad
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Change the oil twice at 1000 and then 2000 along with the filter each time. ASfter that use it normally but still be cautious up to about 5000 Ks. I've just had the conversion to 860 done as well so he said it like having a totally brand new motor.
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Thanks for the advice mate ......

[Julio A.]

How did you install the 860 kit? Did you just bolt everything in? I've read some people claiming the 860 kit's squish band had to be fixed by some machining at the piston dome.

[Adrian]

How did you install the 860 kit? Did you just bolt everything in? I've read some people claiming the 860 kit's squish band had to be fixed by some machining at the piston dome.

I had the engine completely rebuild at a BMW bike workshop. The kit was fitted by them. The owner has the same kit on his bike and the only change he made to the bike was to fit 2 145 size jets to the carbs. The rest remains the same. No mods are necessary to the block or any of that,
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The heads should be overhauled really to make sure that they are in good order.
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The mechanic says many of his mates have the kit too and everyone is happy. I had it done to mine because the barrels were shot and it cost only a little more to buy the kit - rather than buy second hand R65 parts and have everything restored.
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Of course - having the 30% extra capacity will be great - I'm not looking for a lot more speed - just the extra power for passenger
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Overall there is a very high opinion of the kit down here in South Aus -)

[Burt]

I seem to recall when running in mine in 1985, the instructions were keep it under 4,000 RPM for the first two hundred km and then for the next 800 km to take it higher and revving it up and down through all the gears to provide even wear across the range.  After that it was still take it easy but don't be too concerned. 

There was probably an oil change after 1,000 km.  Essentially I ran it in over back roads for a few days so I did not have to worry about drivers tailgating me. 

[Barry]

The difference between 4000 and 4500 RPM is probably neither here nor there as a max revs for running in.  The important thing is not to use exclusively low revs otherwise the rings won't bed in.

Use of higher revs is in recognition of the fact the piston rings don't seal against the cylinder wall solely through spring tension in the ring itself. Combustion gas pressure getting behind the rings also plays a part in forcing the rings outwards and to get enough pressure you need revs.