Removing allen screw on fork bridge

[DeeG]

I am in the process of tearing down the R45, and I cannot, for the life of me, get that miserable Allen head screw/bolt off the fork bridge.

I don't want to take the bigger hammer to the Allen wrench, but something drastic needs to be done.

Heat? Kroil? I've thrown all the cuss words I know at it. I even begged and pleaded.

[Adrian]

Hi there - mine was very tight the first time I took it out. I used a fairly large ring spanner as a levering tool. In my case it finally gave after using all my strength. The added advantage is that if it's still not undoing - it might be possible to use a large pipe or similar over the ring spanner. Something I have done before for other allen bolts. Good luck .....
.
P.S. When I do it again I  use the allen key but with only my arm strength and using the ring spanner again. I'm 60+ so my arm strength isn't that powerful. This way I can get a good tightness without being an idiot with it. I have always been able to undo it again when necessary.

[wilcom]

don't want to take the bigger hammer to the Allen wrench, but something drastic needs to be done.

I found this passage in the archives from Montmil:

"James, After removing the large Allen screw on top -and it usually takes an extension on the wrench as it should be torqued to spec"

That's telling me that it is really tight and might take a "bigger hammer"

Good luck

[Barry]

We have talked about it several times over the years. They are usually tight as hell. Spec is something like 80ftlbs but you'll need double that or more to shift it because of stiction under that large diameter head. I used a 3ft length of gas pipe over a high quality Allen key and had to really lean on it. It'll go with a mighty crack so be prepared.

Tank off it isn't already and pad anything in the line of fire in case something snaps.

[georgesgiralt]

And use the handlebar as an anti-torque device... Otherwise you will/may ruin the angular stops on the frame ...
Do not ask why I know.

[Tony Smith]

Please don't use a hammer - a long breaker bar and suitable socket head is what you need - you can make this by cutting an allen key and then using a standard socket to grip it before inserting the whole confection into the bolt.

[skippyc]

Could you use an impact wrench

[Justin B.]

If you have a 1/2" breaker-bar you can get a set of "allen" sockets pretty cheap if there's a Harbor Freight near you.  It's been a long time but I'm pretty sure that's what I used on mine.

[DeeG]

Thanks, folks.  I kept thinking maybe I was trying to make the wrench go in the wrong direction. lol.  The 1/2" breaker bar is at the Honda shop (spouses 'retirement job' is assembling Honda bikes and side by sides and boats and stuff).  I think I'll head to Harbor Freight tomorrow and see what they've got for a 1/2" drive Allen.   I tried the 3/8" and it just wasn't budging.

Pretty sure that between the 24" breaker & a 1/2" Allen, the better (aka stronger) half and I can break it loose.   

[DeeG]

Picked up the 1/2 drive 10mm Allen at Harbor Freight. There was a 2 alarm commercial fire about a block up the road, power was out to almost 1/2 mile square area.  Shopping in the dark.  That was fun. Need to have cash because non of the computers/registers/computers were working.

Oh well, at least they were open.  Home Despot and Walmart were shut down.

Got everything removed and cleaned up. Will have to replace the bearings.  They were bone dry and the races have have some nice ridges on them.  Steering was smooth, though.  Took the forks apart and noticed that the little red cushion ring was UTL.  No broken up bits of plastic or rubber in the fork oil.  Service manual clearly shows them in the photo. 

Fun times ahead!

[Justin B.]

Good job, Dee!  If you have a MIG in the garage running a bead around the face of the fixed race will cause it to pretty much fall out.

[Tony Smith]

Good job, Dee!  If you have a MIG in the garage running a bead around the face of the fixed race will cause it to pretty much fall out.

Whilst a MIG (or even a TIG) is a very fine thing to have in your workshop, the humble stick welder will also do the job. Given that basic stick welders  can now be had for under $US80 I think every workshop should have one.

[skippyc]

I have just finished doing that job on my bike. I used a stick welder and put a wet rag around the outside of the steering head to protect the paint. It worked well.
It seems that the grease doesn't get changed and solidifies locking up the ball race.