BMW "Additional" Switch (Lighting) Question

[BPT]

I was happy to find these (part #61 31 1 243 454) on sale at Motobins since I thought it would be nice to have the "proper" ones in my dash.  I needed to wire up some accessory lights.

However, it appears that these are more complex than I realized.  Someone explained that when you plug these into the BMW wiring harness they connect to a relay and operate the lights in a more complicated way than I need (turning one fog light on, but the other driving light stays off, or something like that?).

Has anybody here used these just for a plain light switch and can explain how to do this?  I tried connecting the wires several different ways and was able to get the momentary to work but can't get anything for the solid "On" position. 

I was hoping to use for just some simple  2 wire driving lights.  Also, I was planning to wire directly to the switch figuring it would be the simplest way but would connect to something existing if that would make it work.  I don't have the additional BMW harness but I do have some connectors that match the ones on the end of the switch.

Hopefully I am just missing something simple to get this to work?

Thanks.

[mrclubike]

There is nothing complicated about the switch itself

It has a common wire (2 brown wires together in one pin) and then it has a momentary on wire (BRW WHT) and a latch on wire (BRW YELLOW)
just use the latch on wire

This switch is used for different applications

You can wire it directly to you auxiliary lights if they are  LEDS
If they are halogen lights   you may want to  use it to activate a relay that carries the load of the lights

If they halogen just remember your charging system will not carry much else when they are on 

Here is a link to an article on how to wire it up
http://www.accessconnect.com/fog_driving_lights_wiring.htm

[BPT]

Thanks a lot MrClu, that's what I needed to know.  I just hooked up some test leads and got it to work.  Interestingly, I think I found I might have a finicky switch. Playing around with it made it come on so maybe that's why I couldn't get it to work before?

These are LED's so I figured I was safe without a relay.  I'm not sure what the switches are rated for, any idea?

When I was playing around with these before the momentary was the only thing I could to work. Now, I have the positive  from the light to the latch wire and then the common to the positive on the battery.  I have the ground from the light straight to ground.  The regular On/Off works fine, but no momentary.
Does that sound correct? And would there be a way to make momentary work as well?
Not super important but if it was possible I'd probably set it up.  I'm guessing the momentary would involve the white wire?
Thanks again, your identifying the wires for me helped me solve this.

** edited to fix a screw up and a mistype in my wording about the wire routing.

[mrclubike]

I have not seen a rating on the switch but I do know they used it to power the heated grips without a relay

You can hook the wht and yellow traced wires together to get the momentary side to work also but it isn't real easy to push when riding any way

They way to do it is to tie into the HIGH Beam flash circuit but that would require a relay

[BPT]

Perfect, now I've got it figured out.  Yeah, I was thinking the same thing about it not being easy to use the momentary but figured I'd set it up anyway if it was easy.

I had a guy at Max's explaining how they worked originally, tied into the regular lights, etc.  That's what I meant about it being complex - maybe not the switch itself but how it connected and operated with the other lights.

I'm just adding some extra driving lights to my sidecar.  They'll be down low and for lighting up the road but I'd like to keep my high beam and these separate.  Besides making myself more visible, I use some winding, super-dark-at-night country roads, so needed a little extra for that.  I have 2, 18W LED lights. Does that seem OK for the switch and system?

Thanks again for the tips, that was exactly what I needed.

[mrclubike]

I would think the switch could handle the 3 amps

If your Charging system is in good working order the headlight plus the LEDS should not be a problem as long as you are not trying to run any heated gear

If you change the headlight and tail lights to LED also that will make a huge difference in how much charging capacity you have  extra
There are H4 LED replacement bulbs now that have acceptable  performance
There is a large thread on adventure rider about it 

I use the Sylvania ZEVO bulbs in my turn stop and tail and the Native H4 in the head light

[BPT]

Wow, you're reading my mind, I was just reading about the Native H4.  So how do you like it and is it an improvement over the stock bulb?
One of the first things I did was change all of my bulbs to LED, everything except the headlight.
For now I'm not running anything but lights.  I think I have my charging system working properly now so that's why I decided to add these auxiliary lights that I'd put on hold.

If the headlight is an improvement in lighting I might consider that. If it's about the same but lessens the power draw, I will hold off for now.

[BPT]

BTW - I am using Zevo's also, as turn signals and in the sidecar tail light. I have the Beacon tail light setup on the bike.

[mrclubike]

Is the native "Better"

I think the low beam is not as good but the High beam may be a little better

But the low power draw is a big plus for me when I want to run my heated vest and grips

[BPT]

Hmmm, interesting.

While reducing the power draw is always a good thing, right now I'm trying to brighten up the road. I'll see how things improve with my aux. lights, then maybe look into a headlight replacement.