In the UAE, I expect that even your cold engine temps can be similar to our temps with the engine already running, but a few things to note-
1. Yes, as Barry points out, this can happen with pretty much any brand of filter. I've very rarely seen it happen with the Mahle filters from the BMW dealers though. I've had several WIX brand filters collapse.
2. Many folks give up a bit of filter area by using the "hinged" filters (I do this too) as the hinged filters (designed for going in the airheads with the oil coolers, initially) have (2) shorter segments, and 2X the metal endcaps, and appear less prone to crushing in all cases. YMMV. I generally change the oil filter with every oil change, so I don't think that losing a bit of the filter area is an issue - if I only changed the filter every second oil change, well, maybe that would be different.
3. As Monte points out, the airheads generate impressive oil pressure when started, and with cold, thick oil can peak 130 PSI. It is always best to let the ol girl warm up a bit before revving her up above 3K, in my opinion.
4. You can search on the internet for the $2000 O-ring threads if you wish, but basically you know you're getting the right amount of Axial pressure on the oil filter and the sealing, white rubber O-ring when the O-ring (coming out from being installed) has a slightly squarish appearance in cross section - not mashed flat by any means. Just so that it does not look like it is round anymore. There are many treatises on it by the likes of Snowbum, Paul Glaves, and others, over whether the ideal compression is 15%, or 20% or 25%.... as long as it is somewhere in that range - you're good.
5. If you don't change your filter often enough, the partly clogged filter can experience greater pressure differentials (because it is clogging) and be more prone to collapse - just change it with every oil change, and make the oil changes at reasonable intervals, and you should be OK.
Hope this helps,
Mike