I remove the swingarm, might be a bit of work the first time, but I've got it down to an hour and 35 minutes to remove the transmission from the bike .
I was going to post about how if you remove the battery box and the rear sub-frame bolts you can then waltz the whole lot with gearbox attached at the drive shaft back far enough to use a long-handled toothbrush to lube the spines.
But, these machines are no longer young and most of us have little idea how pedantic our POs have been with maintenance.
so I changed my mind, in fact for the relatively low costs involved I would pre-order a clutch plate, rear main seal, oil pump O ring, and gearbox front and rear seal.
If the rear gearbox seal is not leaking I'd almost be inclined to leave it alone as it can (just) be done on the bike if needed - the other seals are just good and proper insurance. Clutch plates may have corrosion around the rivets and the friction material degrades with time so a new plate into a clutch that was otherwise operating happily is cheap insurance.
A tool to press in the rear engine seal can be had relatively inexpensively, the tool to remove the drive flange is more expensive (as I posses a somewhat "formidable" three jaw puller I simply made a plate (it started life as the un-needed center from a blank rear sprocket for something big) that bolted to the drive flange that I could then get purchase on with my gear puller. The cost of the tool to do the drive flange is the main reason I wouldn't disturb it unless I really felt I had to.
