odometer issues

[buzza]

Hi All,
Was out on my 1982 65ls the other day and noticed that the odometer had rolled from 24000km  to 34000km. It then moved to 94000km and by the time I reached home it was back to 4000km.
I have had the bike for 15 months ant this has just started.
Any ideas?
Steve.

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
It seems some of the rollers are slipping on the axe.
If you are meticulous, it can be repaired provided it is this exact problem.
Otherwise there are some reputable repairer out there and, if I'm not mistaken, one on this very same forum.

[Burt]

Steve, if you after a local repairer then google Lionel Otto in Brisbane.  He did my speedo years ago.  

[Luca]

Mine did the same thing.  Like Georges said, there is a slipping gear.  Probably the pot metal one on the odometer shaft.  When it slides to the side the number wheels get too much clearance between each other.  That screws up the way the wheels engage with each other and rack up.

Repairing isn't rocket surgery... just surgery.  Take your time and be careful and you can probably fix the gauge yourself if you are confident in your abilities.  The speedometer is a much more delicate part of the gauge than the trip/odometer, which is just a set of gears and wheels.

There is useful information online with pictures about disassembly and repair.

Replace the rubber reset boot while you are at it.  My torn boot let water into the gauge, rusting up the works of my trip meter

[Barry]

If you are going to do a diy repair the hardest part will be removing the bezel without damage.  The trick is to make a jig that the bezel sits tightly inside so that when the crimp is bent back the edge of the bezel is supported and doesn't get distorted. Basically cut a hole the exact size of the bezel in something like a sheet of 10mm MDF.

[Luca]

Not to sound careless, but with the plastic instrument cover and rubber ring around the bezel in place, you can't see the bezel at all.

[Barry]

That's true enough, I've no doubt the job could be done with care but keeping the water out of the repaired instrument may be easier if the bezel remains as undistorted as possible. The ideal scenario would be a new bezel and they wouldn't cost that much if only they could be sourced.  40 odd years ago I trained as an Instrument Technician where we had proper jigs and presses for the removal and replacement of bezels.

[georgesgiralt]

When I opened mine, I was making a mirror for my bath. So I had special silicone gasket without acid (in order to preserve the metal making the mirror).
I used a little ribbon of this silicone inside the bezel to make a "new" gasket. Putting very little of it and letting it dry before applying the bezel made the trick for me.
If you ask a glass cutting shop selling mirrors they should have it.
As per new bezel, I was fortunate to find in my town an old guy making/repairing barometers having a same size bezel.
When I bought one from him, he offered to seal it with his tooling. Alas, he closed soon afterwards and may be dead by now (this was in the earlies 90's... ) I did not think buying more than one at that time. Stupid me.

[montmil]

... I was fortunate to find in my town an old guy making/repairing barometers...

Perhaps this old gentleman also used a belt-driven lathe to turn belaying pins?

[Luca]

While my bezel didn't come out of surgery looking "factory," it did survive the rigors or opening and closing... twice (i forgot the seal the first time).  The back of the bezel (which you pry and peen) pulls the front of the bezel against the seal and the lip of the gauge.  Thus, the sealing surface won't get distorted unless you really start hammering on the thing.  A good downward pressure on the back of the gauge should help keep things lined up and flat on the face.

I think I might have cut a hole in a 3/4" board with a hole saw while peening the bezel back over to act as a rough jig.  I can't remember exactly, but it worked out well and I have no condensation in the gauge.

As a side note, I bet a bezel could be machined as a stepped ring, using set screws or a second clamping ring to provide enough even pressure for a good seal.

[buzza]

Thanks heaps for all the info. Regardless of whether I do the repair myself or have it done I have to remove it from the bike. Off comes that troublesome LS fairing again, which I found harder to replace than remove. When the speedo is off I'll have a good look and decide what to do.

[buzza]

I took the speedo to Ringwood Speedometer Service after having decided that there were to many issues that could go wrong if I attempted  the work myself. Took 2 days and $110. Hard to tell the instrument has been opened, all working and very friendly service thrown in.
Steve.