82 R65 is running

[10drum]

Greetings,

I bought a '82 R65 with 23K miles on it a few weeks ago. The bike had sit for over 15 years. I rebuilt the carbs, adjusted the valves, replaced the tires, master cylinder, and front pads. The compression is 135# in both jugs. I synced the carbs by ear, sort of how I do my british bikes. I set the idle to 1200, I can drop it down to below 1000, but 1200 seems right. It drives out out pretty good, the clutch is a little short and it's kind of tricky getting it into 1st when stopped, works fine while rolling. There is some vibration between 2200 and 3000rpm while accelerating, it's minimal when compared to a 60s/70s, 650/750 Triumphs. It stops good

I'm open to suggestions for improvement, but I plan to ride it for awhile first.

[Barry]

The sharp clutch engagement is normal. It will probably improve with use and you'll get used to it and not give it a 2nd thought.

The 1st gear engagement or not is normal too.  With a dry clutch there is no clutch drag to keep the shafts rotating in the gears so it becomes a lottery if the dogs line up or not.  Engaging gear immediately after pulling the clutch in will help as there will still be some shaft rotation if you are quick and that will help to engage the dogs.  Failing that either pull the clutch in briefly and try again or paddle the bike forwards or backwards  a few inches.  The idea being you have rotate one of the dogs with respect to the other.  On a daily basis I don't find it to be a significant irritation.

[mrclubike]

Looks just like mine
Except I have gone crazy adding farkle crap all over mine
You may want to sync the carbs up with your choice of  sync tools
Generally  the vibration range is around 4200 to 5000 rpm
Get some new tank badges and people will say it looks like a new bike.
The black paint presents itself very well

Cruz that puppy over to southern MO and maybe i will run into you some time.
If  I would run into another Air head let alone another Black R65  I  would freak out.

If you don't mind How much did you pay for it.
I way over paid for mine after i figured out how much work it actually needed after I got  it   home and checked it out closely.
 Â 
I paid 2700.00 for mine
Here is a picture of it right after I got it.
And another picture with the OEM flood light bracket and Rigid LED floods

I have added Mud flaps front and  rear
Changed over to running tubeless
Dual horns
RK Tank bag and rear rack  with RK bag.
Emergency flashers
Updated the electrical system to have more than adequate  fuses and relays to remove loads from the tired 30 yr old switches  
It come with the
Stainless mufflers
Heated grips
Saddle bags
And Givi wind shield  
 

[mrclubike]

They shift very well after you get the feel of it.
Preloading the shifter before you pull the clutch in and holding it up until you let it out will help the up shifting a lot.
You will eventually get to the point you hardly pull the clutch on the 3-4 and 4 -5 shifts.

[10drum]

Barry, Thanks for the reply. I wasn't too concerned about finding 1st gear, I thought that may be normal.
Barry, I paid $2000, but I'm learning BMW parts are sort of high. I may check on a set of vacuum gages tomorrow. I like the seat on your bike, is that a custom or aftermarket? You''re like me, I see a lawn chair near your bike. I'm not too far from O'fallen, Mo. I'm in Vandalia, Il, 65 miles from the river on I-70. I ride mostly on the county road over here, I stay off the interstate, and avoid highways, I don't like meeting big trucks.

[mrclubike]

The seat come with the bike
I haven't been able to figure out who made it
It is the original seat  pan with a after market seat cover .
I don't think $2000.00 is bad at all.
There are alternatives to some of the OEM parts.
MOTO BINS and  Motorworks in the UK are  a  good source if  you can make up for the higher shipping cost But you will get your parts by Friday if you order Sunday night
Max BMW is very reliable and ships likewise if you pay the extra small shipping up charge and choose USPS Priority. (order Sun have by Fri )
  

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
I disagree about the high price of BMW parts.
I also own a Honda CBF600SA6 and the pads for example are more expensive and last less than the BMW one. The oil filter and air filter are an arm and a leg at Honda dealer.  And don't talk about spark plugs.
If you have to buy a set of balancing devices take a look at Advrider's Harmonizer sold by Grok. I's a hell of a device made in the USA and terribly effective.
P.S. : compare prices from Motobins to BMW dealer prices.... You'll be surprised (in Europe, I am    )

[mrclubike]

That  looks like a very good unit
I wish I would have seen that before i got the one i have
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/harmonizer-vacuum-multi-tool-it-aint-your-daddys-twinmax.701625/

MOTO BINS is very competitive in pricing and service even with the high cost of shipping.

[georgesgiralt]

Well, in Europe, the situation is different. When i searched for the parts to renew my timing chain and associated parts; Motobins were about 100 € above the BMW dealer. And this is before the shipping costs.
Sometimes they are very useful (I've bought the 4 ways flasher kit from them) but it is not every time.
I do not know the situation in the US or Down Under...

[10drum]

Mrclubike, Thanks for the link. I was thinking of something more like this:
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/motorcycle-carburetor-vacuum-gauge-synchronization-kit-for-twins-and-2-carb-setups.html
I'm an analog type guy.

[georgesgiralt]

I do not think these can do the job. You need some device to restrict the flow of air. These big jugs are displacing a lot of air. So the needle will go everywhere if you do not dampen a lot the flow of air. I've a set of Boehm gauges bought 30 years ago with a very fine thread cap pressing on an O-ring. This O-ring close the air passage when compressed and can close it totally ! So you just let the needle move smoothly and slowly. It helps a lot. I think you can find such tools in the US too.
But nothing beats Grok's tool ! Believe me !

[10drum]

georgesgiralt, it looks the set of gauges include some in-line valves. As for the price of BMW parts, I can only compare them to my old Triumphs.
Triumph plug wires $15. BMW plug wires $38. Triumph battery, $32 from NAPA. BMW battery from NAPA $150. Same battery for a Honda with (+) and (-) reversed from NAPA $85. Triumph carb kit for 930 Amals $20. bing carb kit $36, Triumph air filter(s) $12ea. BMW R65 air filter $39. You want me to keep going?

[georgesgiralt]

I can't argue with you on the price you paid. This is why I said that in Europe the prices are different.  I think some importers or governments are more greedy than others.

[10drum]

george, it's probably because old Triumphs have more aftermarket parts available. The plus is that what I've seen so far on this BMW, it is a much better built machine than any bike or car that I've ever worked on. I guess when you buy quality, you only weep once. Thanks for the replies.

[Luca]

The low end vibration is also normal.  Putting any real load on the engine below 3k is pretty much lugging it.  These things like to rev.  Keeps the battery charged and timing chain oiled too!

BMW North America are a bunch of greedy pigs.  Sometimes they surprise you, though, like with their $8 fork seals.  And yes, the parts are pretty high quality.  That said, you can often get high quality parts elsewhere.

Mahle BMW air and oil filters can be had from rockauto for 1/2-1/3 the dealer price.  Euromotoelectrics and beemer boneyard also carry them.  Motorrad Elektrik will make you a set of plug wires for $25 (you can also make your own)

Monte runs a $39 AGM battery sold by a company that makes lots of stuff for UPS setups.

I agree, some of the BMW stuff is expensive, but if you shop around there are also some more reasonably priced vendors.

P.S. Try owning a John Deere!

P.P.S. Congrats on getting her running.  My R65 had sat just as long when I got it.