Replacing the output seal in the final drive is not a difficult chore but there are a few points to remember.
Brake shoes and springs are easily removed and replaced as a complete assembly. Removal is simply closing the shoes as you would a clam shell. They'll go back on the same way but you will need to hold your tongue just right to keep those pesky springs from falling off. Align the shoe's pivot points on the studs and "snap" 'em into position.
With the Cardan cover removed, the gear set can be pulled, if desired. Clean the cover gasket areas to perfection. No sealer is used. Watch for a couple large diameter, thin shims that are fitted to correctly position the
set of the gear teeth.
Before removing the old seal, observe its position and depth of set. Try and match that on reassembly. A little oil on the seal's o.d., finger pressure getting it square to the bore and a small block of wood to gently seat the seal. Check for
square with each strike.
Clean out
ALL the old spline lube that's deep in the rear wheel splines. Solvents and pipe cleaners and a good amount of time will get the job done. Do not leave any old grease or grit in the dark recesses. Pipe cleaners are helpful in applying moly grease -I use Honda Moly60- onto each tooth and recess. Don't overdo it as excess grease will be squeezed out and will soon contaminate the brake shoes.
Clean and grease the splines on the final drive side. This will go faster as you've already cleaned those splines. Tempoarily refit the rear wheel and press it home to mate up with the complete spline contacts. Remove the wheel and wipe away any squeeze out.
You must protect that new seal when refitting the Cardan cover. Any nicks in the fragile seal's lip will create a leak and force a do over. Ugh. $$$. I trim a 12-ounce US beer can that exactly fits over the splines. Sand smooth where the can has been trimmed. Refit the Cardan cover with that perfectly installed rear seal - don't forget the gasket- and torque to specification. Done.
