Bean Can disassembly...?

[AlfromNH]

I'm trying to disassemble the bean can to clean, etc the advance mechanism. Using this thread as a guide:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394966

I've removed everything down to the points mounting plate. I pushed out the pin on the drive wheel, now I've run into a snag. The outer can is "dimpled" in 3 places, preventing the plate from lifting out:


What now? :-/

I've tried to turn the plate, and get the dimples to line up with gaps on the plate, but I can't get the plate to budge at all.

[Barry]

What now? Undecided

I've tried to turn the plate, and get the dimples to line up with gaps on the plate, but I can't get the plate to budge at all.  

I get the impression that the later bean cans are much easier to dismantle because there is no mention of how difficult it is in that ADV thread.

I had the same problem as you.  I did get the plate to turn eventually after making a special tool something like a pin wrench to engage in the slots.  It was not easy !

The sad part after all the struggle was that there was nothing wrong with the advance mechanism.

I didn't try this but given the plate is steel and the can Aluminium I wonder if some heat would provide enough differential expansion to make it easier.  

[AlfromNH]

The sad part after all the struggle was that there was nothing wrong with the advance mechanism.

I have no reason to suspect anything is wrong with this one either, and from what I can see it looks clean underneath the plate. I'm thinking I might just put it back together and hope for the best.

[montmil]

I've rebuilt three electronic, Hall sensor cans but have no experience with the 'dimpled' points models nor do I recall any 'speed bumps' in the Hall cans.

If you can access the advance mechanism w/o removing the plate, perhaps rinse it out with a solvent as best you can, then use a needle point oiler to lube shafts and such.

Avoid using WD-40 as a lubricant as the material with dry up to a tacky state and collect any bit of dirt, dust or residue that might slip in.

Just my experiences...

[AlfromNH]

I wonder if some heat would provide enough differential expansion to make it easier.  

Ding ding ding!!!! We have a winner!

A couple hours under a 100watt light build and I was able to get it to turn and pop out.  8-)

[Bob_Roller]

Good tip to know if you ever go into the canister !!!! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[AlfromNH]

I bought the advance springs from Motobins before taking apart the bean can. I think I'm glad I did. Here's a shot of a new one next to the old ones. At first I thought they were too short, but a closer look shows that the old ones are stretched out. At least they look that way to me... the wire gauge is the same, and the same number of windings:

[montmil]

Looks may be deceiving.

I bought a pair of advance springs from 'bins and -in a very unscientific method- compared the tension of the OEMs with the new springs. The new springs felt way stronger than the originals; so much so that I went back with the originals. The "muscular" springs left me feeling that there would be no advance weight action within the bean-o can.

Just my thoughts...

[AlfromNH]

Way to spoil the party, Monte  

I guess I'll see how it runs... when it runs

[montmil]

Way to spoil the party, Monte  

I guess I'll see how it runs... when it runs

Your bike will fire right up, heavy springs or soft. And as to who 'spoiled your party', best talk to the guy rooting around inside your bean can, eh?

The only difference might be that the 'softer' springs would permit full ignition advance sooner whereas the 'stronger' springs may limit or, possibly, prevent any ignition advance.

I'd bet a few of us hereabout learned how distributor advance springs and weights altered the performance of our old Chevy hot rods, back in the day.

After your rebuild and a few shakedown rides, any feeling of less than sparkling performance during mid-range acceleration... well, refer back to this post for a possible 'fix'.

Most all of us, at least those who do their own wrench-twistin' have had similar "learning experiences." Most all of us have learned to ask for advice earlier rather than later.

[AlfromNH]

Way to spoil the party, Monte  

I guess I'll see how it runs... when it runs

 as to who 'spoiled your party', best talk to the guy rooting around inside your bean can, eh?

Don't worry, Monte, I take full responsibility for my actions!  

[Semper Gumby]

Well after arguing unsuccessfully with the EME Bosch Alternator Electronic ignition, I have cleaned, lubed and re-installed my points bean can.  I used some light lubricating fluid from Autozone to lube the pivots for the flyweights.  A little bit of wheel bearing grease on the cam.  Some light lubricant down the shaft of of the cam and some wheel bearing grease on the plane bearing on the end.  Gapped and reinstalled with my Dyna 3.0 ohm coil and runs lovely.  I am running NGK 1K ohm caps with NGK BP7ES plugs.  I did sand the points with some 400 fine paper just to clean 'em up a bit.

The thing I learned from all of this is that it is easiest to just remove the can when it comes time to gap the points.