Rearset advice solicited

[marcmax]

I collected all the pieces individually to install R65 Raask rearsets. They work fine with one exception. The shift lever is a cast piece and rides on a shaft that is the footpeg on one end and bolts to the backing plate on the other end. There is no bearing or bushing to allow smooth movement. It is a good fit.

 What is happening is that I lube the pivot point and assemble it and everything works fine for about a week to 10 days. Then the lube gets a little stiff, gets a little grit, etc. and when I downshift it doesn't come back to center so I can downshift again. I have to put my toe under it and bump it and then put my toe back on top to downshift again. Clean it, lube it and all is good for a couple more weeks.

I am considering several options. 1. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to lube with? I have tried everything from Honda Moly to engine oil (engine oil works in a pinch to get back home - dipstick dropper in the right place). 2. Drill and tap a hole in line with the notch in the support spindle and install a zerc fitting to allow an easier lubing. 3. boring out the hole in the shift level and installing a needle bearing or sintered bronze bushing.

I know there are a bunch of mechanical wizs on this forum. Pros and cons of all options welcome.

[montmil]

I can see where the close tolerances, plus a little bit o' grit, could be problematic. Any thoughts on an oil-soaked felt washer on each end of the spindle portion?

[Luca]

If you've got enough meat to take off, installing a bearing would work best... but it would also be labor intensive.

You could try running a brake cylinder hone through the lever and/or hitting the footpeg shaft with a bit of very fine sandpaper (600+ grit).  Both would give you a bit more polish on the parts and perhaps open up the clearances enough to allow a little more grease and discourage binding.

Whatever you go with, Monte's felt washers will surely help keep the grit out and the grease in.

Also, you could try one of those high-tack greases, like what some folks use on transmission splines.  I think chevron makes one (it's red IIRC)

[marcmax]

Thanks Monte. That is one I hadn't thought of. Although there is no room now it wouldn't take much to mill a mm or 2 off the ends to allow room for a felt washer.

That is why I like this forum, plenty of people that are willing to think outside the box.

[marcmax]

Thanks Luca. My first inclination was towards installing a bearing or oil soaked bushing  But I am worried about a structural failure if I open up the hole in the lever too much. Have to see what is available and how much I would have to remove.

[nhmaf]

Geez - not well designed from a mechanical perspective - and I'm even an electrical engineer (not mechanical) by trade!  

I'd go with trying to polish up the mating surfaces including both inner and outer ends of the cast lever using 800 - 1200 wet/dry paper.  I'd then smear some good tacky grease like I use on my tractor pivots (it is red and tacky, and I think it is even called that) onto the spindle, making sure I get some packed into that little groove in the middle of the spindle as a "reservoir".    Then I'd reassemble things either with a couple oiled felt washers on both inner and outer ends, and/or maybe even use some THIN brass or copper/aluminum washers to help reduce the odds of tearing up the felts.   Might even shave a little bit off the cast part if I had to if I needed more bolt threads to held the footpeg on, but I'd only do that if other fettling didn't work out quite right.

[marcmax]

Being a 30+ year old accessory I am sure it was never intended for everyday use. The rearsets were likely intended for racing use and designed to be taken down between race days and cleaned, lubed and adjusted. Also being a "city dweller" tractor lubes are a little beyond my scope of knowledge :-). So far the same Honda Moly that I use to lube my splines seems to last the longest. Maybe with the addition of the felt washers to keep out road grit it might be a winning combination.

[nhmaf]

Just google "red and tacky grease" and it should bring up several brands that will work - the stuff sticks well and resists washing out from water, etc, and is meant to lubricate pivoting joints that are subjected to alot of dirt and vibration.    You can get it in standard grease gun tubes.

[Luca]

Let us know how that goes.  I would work down the list of possibilities starting with the least modification (greases, washers) to the heaviest modification (machining).

Another things that just struck me is to try widening the groove in the shaft.  That would let it hold a little more grease.

And lastly, you could also try using anti-seize on the parts.

[steve hawkins]

I had a set of these on my Café Racer for 10 years and never had any issues with them in that time.  Once they we installed!  But I bought them new.

I still have mine in a box.   But I think I used copper grease, as you do on the back of brake pads.

Seemed to be okay.  But I did not do huge mileage and I did not ride it daily, through the depths of winter.

Although she did get wet plenty of times.

Cheers

Rev Light

[Ed Miller]

If he goes the bearing route, how much interference should he have between the bearing and the hole?  I mean, should the hole be a tiny bit smaller than the OD of the bearing, or the same?

[steve hawkins]

When you put it together, dry, does it bind at all.  I just looked at mine and there is a little bit of play in there, when done up tight.  It should not bind at all, maybe you could carefully dress the sides of the lever unit so it moved freely, and then use a grease or copper ease.

Cheers

Rev Light

[marcmax]

I bought a tube of Lucas Oil Red and Tacky #2 grease at the local parts house. When I put it together dry it doesn't bind but it is a snug fit. It doesn't seem to be a side to side issue but more the lever on the shaft itself that is snug. I think I am going to try a light sanding of the pivot shaft to remove any irregularities followed by some time with a polishing wheel. Same with the inside of the shift lever and then reassemble with the tacky red grease.

Don't want to make any modifications that are irreversible.

[marcmax]

Well I polished the spindle with wet/dry paper all the way up to 2000 as well as the bore in the shift lever. While there weren't any rough areas it is definitely a lot smoother fit when assembled dry. When I reassembled with the Red and Tacky grease it feels almost frictionless. I will have a better answer in a couple of weeks of riding but I think this may be it. Thanks to all for the input!

[nhmaf]

YAY!!!   We await your "long term" report!!!
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