Engine / motor removal from frame

[MatthewH]

After nearly two years of R65 ownership (during which time it hasn't turned a wheel) I am finally going to get round to stripping it down and rebuilding it.  I will start a restoration thread in the other section of the forum.  For the moment though, before I attack the dismantling procedure the one big worry I have is how to get the motor out of the frame, or the frame lifted off the motor.  Here is why:  if possible, I don't especially want to remove the cylinder heads - I don't really want to remove the gear box either but I am guessing it's not possible unless I do.  Happy to remove everything else, I am dismantling the bike completely except for the engine internals.  

At my disposal I have a motorcycle lifter jack, a centre stand that still works, a head stock stand that can support the front wheel off the groud nice and stable and goes under the hole in the lower part of the triple clamp.  Blocks of wood etc.  Sadly no garage, and no roof beams. 

I'd be really grateful for views on what to dismantle first and last (to avoid silly mistakes).  The solution I had in mind was to get everything off except the motor in its frame (minus its top and front covers); supporting the frame with a headstock stand at the front and the centre stand in place under the frame - and then jacking the motor upwards with the jack and moved sideways out of the side of the frame.  Is that doable?  Are there any simpler ways?

Matthew

[Barry]

Understand what your saying but not removing the gearbox is going to make life much more difficult than it needs to be. If it hasn't had a spline lube recently that alone would justify taking it off. It's easy enough especially as I presume you are removing the swinging arm/drive shaft/final drive.

Even with the gearbox off it's sure to be 2 man job lifting that motor out.

[nhmaf]

I think that I'd put the bike on the centerstand, bungee the stand forward to the exhaust pipe crossover to prevent it fromt folding up on you, and first remove the transmission.    You could follow the procedure I used in this thread - there is a PDF instruction document with pics attached in it:
http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1339637883

(involved removing the swingarm pivot bolts, loosening rear shock bolts and pushing the swingarm & wheel backward)

It also uses a jackstand or two to further stabilize the bike.

Once you have the gearbox out, you could then progress to removing the wiring and then pull the engine.   You will need a helper to remove the engine with the cylinders&heads attached.   since you plan to remove the engine I would tend to advise against using the Harbor Freight type of moto/ATV life as that tends to block up too many points of access to the underside of the bike, plus it is higher up and more tippy - especially considering you will be drastically changing the balance points as you remove these bike hunks of metal.   As long as your centerstand is in good shape, it will suffice on whatever stable flat surface you have to work with.

[Luca]

If you have exposed rafters overhead in your workplace, you could work the engine out with ropes.  Go under the cylinder bases and hang the engine.  As you move the engine out the side of the bike, apply new ropes on the far side of any impeding frame tubes and then remove the initial ones.  Think of a child going across a set of monkey bars.

Not sure if I'm making sense, but I have a good idea of it in my head.  Might be a disaster waiting to happen...

If you are going to do restoration, you need to remove the gearbox.  Heck, you get it 3/4 off for regular service.  The thought is intimidating, but the job is pretty darn simple.  Gotta love airheads.  Just make sure you have a torque wrench adapter for when you install your new driveshaft bolts.

[flybot]

I had this same issue last year on my restoration, and I was a little stumped at first. I would consider removing the motor with the bike  resting on the front wheel and center stand. I cant find a good way to raise the bike on the typical MC jack because of the lugs for the two kickstands get in the way.

There is minimal clearance to get the thing out. You can do it the hard way or the easy way. Since your doing a resto anyway, you may as well take the easy way. It just (seemingly) involves more taking apart. But you will end up doing most of it anyway.
- It is assumed you have disconnected all fuel, electric and mechanical linkage to the engine
- Remove real wheel, swing arm and disconnect the universal joint.
- Take off the front engine cover, and the top cover
- Remove all the transmission housing bolts. This will require removing the air box, I think.
- Remove the exhaust.
- If your not planning on repainting your frame now is the time to cover your frame around the engine with cardboard and tape. You will bang and scrape the frame on the way out and back in again.
- Support the engine and remove the engine bolts
- I think I took the trans out last and put it in first. Not sure. But it will be fairly obvious what will and will not work at that point.

Reinstalling the engine was easy. I had the frame resting on the ground and was then able to get the engine in the frame and then move the frame around to line up the bolts.

See my reassembly thread: http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1346783584

[tvrla]

I get the impression the front end is off, as well as the rear end?

If everything is still attached, leaving it on the center stand will be just fine.

If the front and back end are off, set the whole works on the ground and lift the frame off the engine.

The transmission needs to be removed, though I've never tried removing the engine with trans attached. It's only four bolts to disconnect the transmission so why not? The engine alone weighs something like 100 lbs. The transmission is another 30.

When removing the engine, it has to move upward and to the side, then out.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

There are two ways to remove the gearbox.  Both require removing the air filter, the second the battery box as well.

1) remove the swingarm pivots and pull the swingarm back a couple of inches to give yourself the room you'll need.

2) put a scissors jack under the rear of the engine.  Remove the rear engine mount.  Raise the engine.  With the battery box removed you should have enough room to remove the gearbox.


The engine is easily removed with two people (wear gloves).  And it is much easier with the cylinder/head assemblies left intact!

Good luck with your project.  You will (hopefully) need a big hex key (allen) in a breaker bar with a cheater when it comes time to take the steering head off the frame.  Big Channel-locks, too.
And a special 27mm socket for the swingarm lock nuts, if you don't already have one. http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm
Some sockets will work w/o "thin-wall" modification, but they should all have the face ground down for maximum purchase on the nut.
edit: I see you are in England.  Motobins has this socket, but it does not look as nicely finished as the one from Joes Tools.  (and 6-point is preferable)

http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R%20Series%202%20valve%20Twin
Part No.99600

Joes:


Motobins:

[Armen]

If you are doing a full resto, pull the top end off in the frame. Makes the bottom end lighter : )

[Mike V]

It's always more difficult the more you think about it.

*Remove exhaust
*Disconnect cables, electrics to engine and plumbing.
*Remove Air Box or Clam Shell.
*Remove Battery and Battery Tray.
*Remove Engine Top Cover.
*Remove Engine Front Cover. (protect frame with heavy tape or plastic water bottles along frame rails split in half if you need to protect existing finish)
*Disconnect swingarm & Drive Shaft at Transmission output. (If you don't want to remove the rear wheel be sure to tie the swingarm back after disconnecting at frame)
*Remove Transmission, left foot peg and linkage. (center punch or mark the reference location of the foot peg to the frame)
*Support Engine with wood blocks or like support.
*Remove engine support axles.
*Lift engine out with the help of a friend.

Now - get prepared for "Mission Creep".