Crushed oil filter

[disco51]

Tried out my first oil filter change this weekend.  Found a nicely smashed oil filter. I thought I remember coming across this happening to someone else.  Any thoughts?  Something to worry about?
I don't thinkthe PO used an OEM BMW filter.  I also opened it up and found one decent size curled up fleck of aluminum looking stuff. I tried deciphering this from snowbum's site, but not sure which one it matched up to.... maybe this one:
 Â  "Non-magnetic aluminum chunks that look like rough teeny snowballs are from the corner of the main bearing carrier, from a worn top sprocket and chain."
I'll try to post a pic later, if it will catch it.
I'm using the hinged filter from BMW.  Measured my canister depth and found close to 4mm, so using 2 shims and the infamous white o-ring (which what was there when I opened it up).  Oil light went off and no leaks, so I guess success for now?!  Never sweated out an oil change so much.
I also changed out the transmission fluid again, since it was a nice chocolate shake color the first time I did this.  No water this time.  
I then tackled the final drive fluid fluid for the first time and found the same chocolate milk stuff.  Guess it had been sitting out in the weather in the past.

[Air4Life]

Never sweated out an oil change so much.

+1  

http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1337712987

[nhmaf]

Hmm,
If you can post a pic of the piece of aluminum you found maybe we can try to ID it.   Maybe it was a piece of metal left in the filter from a malformed end cap on the filter itself (with luck) and the ensuing partial blockage of the filter cause a pressure spike that crushed the filter?

I've encountered a crushed filter before - some brands are more prone to this happening - though the Mahle BMW brand filters virtually never seem to crush.   Way inside the oil filter canister, there is a small ball bearing thing which is part of the rpessure relief system - it is good to just give it a push with a metal rod to check that it does press inward and pop back so it is working.    The startup oil pressure with cold oil can be very high in these engines, so it is always best to NOT rev up the engine until it is warmed.  And, though some in very warm climates like Texas/Arizona run 50W oil in them, if you live in coolder places I'd recommend using a thinner oil, such as 10w40

[montmil]

Very cold ambient temperatures and revving up a cold Airhead can cause such high oil pressures as to crush the filter. I know it can get danged cold in Georgia.

Check the drive shaft oil while you're at it.

[Justin B.]

I have seen 150 psi at cold temps until things warm up - but, I run 20W50 all year 'round...  I just choose my shift points via the oil pressure gauge for the first couple of blocks!  

[Bob_Roller]

Did you replace the rubber boot that goes over the speedometer drive cable where it enters the transmission ??

That's the most common place water gets into the transmission .

[disco51]

Thanks for the replies...
Monte - I did replace the drive shaft oil a while back.  Didn't notice the choclate milkshake there.  I was waiting on a crush washer for the final drive.
Bob - ever since I first saw the water, I've been looking for the part number for that damn boot.  Should of just asked here.  However, the boot actually looks like it's in pretty good shape (no cracks at least).
By the way, where is the spot people like to relocate the negative ground cable?
I'm pretty sure it was a Hiflo filter, but I'll double check on that.  Check out the pics.

[Barry]

Call that a crushed oil filter you should look at this one  

http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1269110468/5#11

Seriously, it probably nothing to worry about.  3 years on and I have detected no adverse effects from mine.  Cold oil is certainly a factor but also consider how much compression your filter was under. It's all in the thread linked above.  I've never had a repetition - once was enough.

[Bob_Roller]

Here's a link to RealOEM.com, a BMW parts catalog .

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0437&mospid=51647&btnr=62_0220&hg=62&fg=11

It's item number 4 .

Sometimes you need to go to larger model bikes made the same time, to get a full break down for the parts, for some reason this is not uncommon with the R65 parts catalog .

The boot doesn't need to be cracked to cause a problem, it loses it's grip on the cable and allows water in that way .

I replace mine every 4-5 years regardless of how they look .

The bearings in the '81 R65 had a lot of pitting in the area where the balls in the bearings would ride on the races .

I had a vibration and kept getting a lot of metal fuzz on the drain plug, had the transmission overhauled at 78,000 miles .

[montmil]

Hey, Disco Inferno,

When you get that new speedo boot, lube it up really good to aid in getting it over the hard parts. Then, just before you push the boot down onto the gearbox, pack the inside of the boot with grease. Good water proofing insurance, that.