Clutch is the likely culprit, so what should I buy

[mfrias2nd]

Thanks guys for answering my last post. I'm thinking the clutch is the problem here and it's slipping. So figured I new thread is due... I've read many different tips from different people on the clutch work. Some say you should only need to replace this or that and some people say replace everything as a unit including flywheel and seals. What's your take on this? obviously i'll check for leaking fluid as that may be the problem to begin with but when it comes to clutch only, can I get away with a used clutch? used components mixed with new or should I bite the bullet and get the new clutch and all components?  

[Bob_Roller]

I'd remove the parts look them over and then make a decision .

If you're going this far, I would suggest replacing the rear main seal and the oil pump cover o-ring .

Before removing the bolts that holds the flywheel on, you need to block the front of the crankshaft  a small length of a 6 mm allen wrench in the alternator rotor retaining bolt will work, then put the front cover back on making sure the allen wrench contacts the cover and prevents the crankshaft from moving forward and displacing a crank shaft thrust washer .

[mfrias2nd]

A+ ADVICE!

[nhmaf]

+1 with all the above - until you get in there, you really don't know just how long the shopping list is going to be.  At minimum, you're likely looking at a new clutch friction disk and some new metric allen bolts to replace the old ones, and you will need some extra long metric allen bolts (3 or 4)  & matching nuts so that you can gradually ease the clutch apart and releaes the spring pressure (and also to ease the assembly together again so you can fit the correct length new bolts when it goes together.   But, you may need more parts depending on what is worn.

And, be prepared with new oil pump cover seal and rear main seal for the crankshaft to replace them if they shown any sign of leaking.    The rear main seal also should be put on with a special seal installation tool to get it straight in and the proper depth - or it may leak.   And, ideally, a clutch centering arbor - the clutch replacement can be done without it, but if done with it then you can be assured that all will go back together straight and centered..

These special tools can be bought from a few different sources, or you can make your own if you are handy and have a drill press and/or lathe... Or you can borrow from a fellow airhead in your area.

I've got a procedure write up with photos in the FAQ section on taking the bike apart to service the clutch, too.

[steve hawkins]

A couple of other things you need to be aware of:

1.  Do not use the torque setting in the Haynes manual for the clutch bolts. You will round the heads off - it is far too high.

2.  Although replacing the rear main seal and pump gaskets are a good idea whilst you are in there, if they are leaking, they are less of a likely cause of of oil contamination on the clutch than you might think as the flywheel is in between these two oil sources and the clutch plate.  A far more likley cause of oil contamination is actually from the gearbox side as the oil makes its way along the clutch activation rod and radiates out from the centre on to the clutch material.  Either from the gearbox input seal or from the felt seal of the clutch actuation rod or even too much grease on the splines.  Look for evidence of 'spatter' on the clutch and the rearward face of the flywheel, radiating out from the centre.

3.  Do not replace the cluctch until all sources of oil contamination have been dealt with.  It will cost you another clutch.  Don't ask me how I know this.

4.  High mileage bike?  Replace the lot and only do it once. Its far more hastle spliting the engine and gearbox than replacing the clutch.  You only want to do it once.

5. + all the stuff my esteemed fellow enthusiasts have already said.

Cheers

Rev. light

[mfrias2nd]

thank you guys so much! i plan on tearing into it sometime soon. Last night i checked my clutch adjustment and it was way off so i gave it the appropriate slack... we'll see how it runs for now... I'm replacing the heads and bead blasting the sleeves so i plan to make a nice weekend out of this. thanks again! I'll be back with pictures.

[flybot]

If the cable was tight, you may have fixed it. But if you do need to change the clutch, but sure to cover the bike frame around the engine and trans with cardboard. You have to do a lot of moving around to get the clutch out and it will easily scratch up the frame.