Valve Adjustment-need advice

[soliecirc]

I started over. Started with left side where the intake spring was out. Set clearance to .20mm. Exhaust adjuster would not go to correct clearance because of suspected damaged thread. Should I order a new piece? Is it ok having clearance permanently closed? I think it's been that way for a few years? If I can't get the adjuster nuts off how can the new piece be installed?
Rotated back wheel while in top gear, spark plugs out, slowly until I got to OT again. Not a full rotation of the tire and definitely did not pass any other OTs.
Set clearances on rt side exactly to .20mm exhaust and .10mm intake. Rotated back wheel several revolutions and checked clearances. They were correct.
when the rt side clearances are correct, the left are closed. When the left side are correct, the right side are closed. Is that true? One side open and the other side closed?

PHOTOS ATTACHED

[soliecirc]

Went ahead and ordered the $23 screw

[donbmw]

If you can't force the nut off you will have t cut the adjuster. And the clearance will be less on the other side since the lifter are in a different place on the cam.

[Barry]

Is it ok having clearance permanently closed?

Absolutely not as you risk burning the valve.

If I can't get the adjuster nuts off how can the new piece be installed?

You should be able to screw the adjuster right up through the rocker until there is a gap under the nut. Then devise some means of  turning the nut while at the same time pulling on it.

[Air4Life]

 [smiley=thud.gif]

Wow, I've been making this much more of a chore than it need be.  I do use the rear wheel and I stand behind it to make the larger rotation.  When the intake has cycled I then move to the left side so as to sight the OT mark.  I grab the spokes of the snowflake wheel and bump it along.  

This procedure wasn't so difficult when I took the plugs out; but then I read on a revered website that they don't like to remove the plugs for fear of allowing debris access.  As you can imagine it is very tricky doing it like that from the side, unless of course you have strong arms or really stink poor compression. On a many occasions I have to scoot to the back to give the rear wheel twitch or two.  Doing it that way I have blown past the mark and have to cycle around again.  

I think I will just start removing the plugs again.  It was much easier when i did it that way.

[montmil]

Air4,  Here's the R65 Forum-Valve Adjustment Tip o' The Day...

Avoid using your leaf blower to clean out the shop while spark plugs are removed for valve lash adjustments.

I've seen some nasty garages but have yet to see debris tumble from the ceiling and fall into an open cylinder. The "revered website" author should consider laying a shop towel over the spark plug holes if he is concerned about rat droppings falling from his rafters. Or bats in his belfry.

[Air4Life]

montmil:  True true.  

To be honest I had to go back and check to confirm their assertions.  I found that  I had miswrote.  By not removing the plugs there is less chance that carbon can fall in-between the seats, thereby throwing off the adjustments.  

That said, I wouldn't be surprised if my technique created more of an error than carbon would...  

[Mike V]

Soli,

Some excellent Tech Day events coming up with some great airhead help available very soon...

April 13, 2013
La Mesa Tech Day
c/o Joe McClung
(619) 464-6386
(619) 346-8244
4565 Glen St.
La Mesa, CA 91941

May 4, 2013
Stoner's Tech Day
c/o Larry "Stoner" Stonestreet
(951) 813-1704
39628 Avenida Miguel Oeste
Murietta, CA 92563

Try to make one of these - these are some great guys and gals.  You'll get some great help and make some valuable new friends. I would suggest calling ahead to get things lined up for available parts, etc. Stoner has enough spare parts to assemble 3 or 4 complete bikes.

-Mike V.

[soliecirc]

I cut off and replaced the damaged bolt preventing me from setting the correct clearances.
Pictured---
1- pushrod came lose during removal. It almost seems as though it is not seated correctly now. Is it possible that it came out from where it needs to be and should be inserted correctly? Or am I just being paranoid? The "ball and socket" point of connection where the pushrod touches with the bolt doesn't seem to be as flush as it is on the other 3 areas this occurs.  
2 - the nut was damaged so bought a zinc replacement at Home Depot. I will order the actual nut from bmw but will this replacement nut be ok in the meantime?
Last picture is the cut bolt and damaged nut

[montmil]

... pushrod came lose during removal. It almost seems as though it is not seated correctly now. Is it possible that it came out from where it needs to be and should be inserted correctly? Or am I just being paranoid? The "ball and socket" point of connection where the pushrod touches with the bolt doesn't seem to be as flush as it is on the other 3 areas this occurs.

Withdraw the pushrod and inspect both ends. They should be round, smooth and shiny. The pushrod should roll easily on a flat surface -confirming it is not bent. Inspect the rocker arm socket using a mirror and flashlight. It, too, should be free of any damage. Make sure the pushrod ball end is seated in the cam follower socket. You should "feel" the correct fit.

If the engine has been operated with way too much lash gap, there could be the potential for some damage, maybe. Same concern with 'no lash'. Your inspection is important.

Replace that Chinese nut immediately. It is not the same grade/strength as required.

[Semper Gumby]

Tip:  Once you get the hang of the valve setting a quick and dirty way to see which side is TDC on compression is to reach in and see if both the pushrods will spin with your fingers.  I back that up by seeing if there is play in the valve lifters.  I measure the clearences then I set the valves last.

Tip: Always check the clearences of your valves before you set them.  Write these numbers down.  This way you will see if the dreaded exhaust valve recession is showing its ugly head.  But that is another story...

Tip: There is an unofficial clearance between the valve rocker and the posts.  It's about .002".  If this gets too big the the valve rocker clunks up and down against the posts make a disconcerting noise.  This will cause you to buy the largest set of plyers you have ever seen!  But These plyers will look really impressive on your pegboard wall!    (Whoagh! Whoagh! Whoagh!...)

Good luck!   [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]