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Author Topic: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS  (Read 1544 times)

Red_Hen

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Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« on: April 03, 2013, 07:53:17 AM »
Hi Gang,

I'd removed my bean can last fall for inspection - it looks good!

Took a picture before removing it.

Have a induction timing light - really don't know how to use it.

Know front engine chest has to be removed w/battery disconnected so to not short & fry the diode board.  Beyond that, I'm not proficient using a timing light but interested to learn.

Any tips appreciated - the valves are set & carbs too - just need to know the sequence starting with #1 and where it ends.

Does bike have to be warmed up and will I have challenges starting bike if bean can isn't re-installed in exact position as where it was before it was removed.

Yada yada yada  

Offline montmil

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2013, 08:48:46 AM »
Couple things for you, Ken. Others will add their thoughts, too.

Use a Q-Tip or something to dab white paint on the flywheel's stamped timing marks. Let the paint tack up, then a quick swipe with a damp solvent rag will leave the paint in the debossed areas. Safety tip: Do Not do this with the engine running.

Use a separate, fully charged 12v battery to power the timing light. Not the bike's installed battery. Hope you bought a light with a xenon bulb -brighter and you'll quickly appreciate that extra bright light.

You probably have an induction pickup clamp so clip it over the right hand side spark plug wire.

Yes, warm up the engine. I usually remove the front cover and putt-putt around the neighborhood... if it ain't raining! I do hate burning myself on the exhaust while attempting to remove a hot engine cover. Ouch, that smarts!

Use a Sharpie to mark the location of the bean can prior to loosening the two clamp screws. The Airhead is not too particular as to the bean-o can's position; if you get it close, she'll run. Leave the can loose enough to turn by hand -a glove might be handy- but snug enough so that the cam's action doesn't rattle it around.

A big fan blowing across the engine might be helpful if you spend too much time doing the timing work.

You know where the timing plug is. You also know there's cable obstructions in a direct visual line to the flywheel. Gotta deal with it. That's why the xenon lamp is so popular... you can see the timing marks that you previously painted white.

Tweak the bean can to get the timing where you want it. Snug up the clamping screws and check the advance marks as you apply a bit of throttle.

OK... what have I forgotten? People?




Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline Mike V

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2013, 09:21:15 AM »
Ken,

Great advice from Monte.  Especially the paint and marking advice (attached photo). I like to set the timing at full advance (±3500 rpm) and check it at idle.  But my technique has changed a bit over the past few years in the way of setting the timing at full advance and not at idle.  Check your manual for what mark is identified at full advance.

Or, you can experiment with the settings and determine what works best for you.  You can watch the timing curve progress from idle to full advance with the light pointed at the window as you increase the engine speed.  A helper is, uh ... helpful.

Ideally you want a good solid light & timing mark at idle with no "bouncing".  If you see your timing mark fluctuating significantly at idle it may be the cause of a worn timing chain.
« Last Edit: April 03, 2013, 09:43:21 AM by Mike_V »
Mike V. / San Diego
'78 R100/7 (original owner)
'81 R65 (fully restored)

Red_Hen

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2013, 04:08:09 PM »
I get courage from you guys - thanks again!  Will report results as soon as I'm done futzing with the R60/5 - almost complete!!!

disco51

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #4 on: April 04, 2013, 08:46:01 AM »
Monte - just a few questions, since I just tried this for the first time a couple of weeks ago.
Why the need for a separate 12 V battery when doing the timing?  I hooked up the xenon lamp to my battery on the bike and it seemed to work ok.  
Why does it matter which spark plug wire you place the induction pickup clamp over?  I remember reading one of your older posts that mentioned that BMW specifically recommended doing the timing light from the right spark plug wire, but didn't know if there was a specific reason.
Thanks

Offline montmil

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #5 on: April 04, 2013, 09:09:58 AM »
Both items are from BMW procedural publications.

I would suspect that the age/condition of an installed battery, the drain on the installed battery caused by negative charging at idle revs plus the lights on at idle revs may have something to do with using a separate battery guaranteeing a full 12v to the timing light. Easy enough to do.

Using the right-hand sparky plug wire for the timing light's induction clamp is also per BMW.

Whenever I get confused doing a project -and that's pretty durned often- I just tell myself, RTM. ;)
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

disco51

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #6 on: April 04, 2013, 09:19:57 AM »
Makes sense - I find I often dive into a project and then RTM...
Guess I'll have to find another 12V battery for next time.  How often do I need to check the timing?  I noticed the previous owner had installed a boyer brandson eletronic ignition, so no points.  I'm guessing it's good until I check the valves again, right?  

Offline montmil

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #7 on: April 04, 2013, 11:04:51 AM »
Rare for the electronic ignitions to get outta time. Pretty much a set and forget system.

I do find the timing light to be an excellent resource for checking the timing chain's condition.

"Guess I'll have to find another 12V battery for next time," says the disco man.

You probably have a solid 12v battery sitting in your driveway. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2013, 11:09:40 AM »
When I do a carb synchronization, or anything else that requires the engine to run  for a while with the bike not being ridden, I connect an automotive battery charger to the battery .

Usually shows a 3-5 amp charge during the maintenance procedure .

Also, use a fan or two to keep the engine from overheating, if you run it for more than 5-10 minutes from a cold start .
« Last Edit: April 04, 2013, 11:11:22 AM by Bob_Roller »
'81 R65
'82 R65 LS
'84 R65 LS
'87 Moto Guzzi V65 Lario
'02 R1150R
Riding all year long since 1993 .
I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!

EGRG

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Re: Timing Technique - '82 R65LS
« Reply #9 on: April 04, 2013, 04:21:35 PM »
Just remember the timing marks letters and their meaning.
OT is top dead center and is used for valve adjustment.
S is static timing point at idle or low rpm's (minimum advance).
Z is the timing point of maximum advance around 3000 rpm's
*Courtesy of Snowbum's Useful German word page. http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/germanwords.htm