impact pad

[disco51]

I finally got the fork gaiters on and the rubber bumpers replaced.  Thanks for all of the help.  I had to remove the circlip on one side, but not the other as I was able to torque the other side appropriately without the spinning.  Unfortunately, I didn't order a new aluminum washer for the fork drain plug at the bottom and I now have a small leak there on one side.  Hopefully I'll be able to find one at a autoparts place or somewhere so I can avoid the shipping and lag time from a BMW dealer for a 50 cent part.  Any ideas?  Aluminum metric washers seem difficult to find.
Now, onto the next question...
1.  When I bought the bike the impact pad was cracked at the bend on both sides just below the instrument panel.  I've read this can happen.  Just wondering if anyone had any prior experience trying to fix this - epoxy?  I have it off now so figured it would be a good time to try something.
Thanks again in advance for all of the help.
Jeff

[montmil]

Most alloy washers sold are of a harder temper than the soft, aluminum crush washer needed. Try copper, if you can find some.

[Barry]

Did you try to anneal the washers ?  

Not straightforward with such a small washer as they easily melt.

Whatever you do beware of over tightening the screws as stripped threads are not uncommon.
 
Having partially melted one washer (or was it both) and there being no alternative to hand I used small O rings.  Not by any means the best or intended engineering solution but they worked fine and have lasted 5 years without leaking or falling out. Ideally the screws should be under cut just below the head to provide a groove for the O ring to sit in then choose a size that needs to be stretched into place. One thing about using O ring seals is there is no way you are going to strip the threads as the O ring will seal at very low torque and just squirm out of position long before any dangerous level of torque is reached. One day I'll have to find out if our not very local glass palace BMW dealer has even heard of an airhead never mind stocks spare parts like a small washer.

Another alternative that would work and seal well is ordinary red fibre washers.


If the impact pad is spilt in a area which is visible I don't know what would work to make an invisible join.  Mine had just started to split underneath so I have stitched the split closed using metal staples which seems to have prevented the problem getting worse.

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
A bit of 3 bond sealing compound on the screw makes a perfect sealing, prevent the screw from undoing itself and help if the thread is a bit stripped...

[disco51]

I have no experience annealing a washer - it was in multiple pieces anyhow.  I think I saw some copper washers at Harbor Freight but might also get an O ring as a backup - don't see why that wouldn't work.
Any ideas on the impact pad?

[georgesgiralt]

The problem of the impact pad is that it is supple. So if you glue it as is, you risk the seam to open due to the force applied. (the hole diameter is less than the bezel diameter of the instruments..)
I think you can drill a small hole in both parts of the seam and insert a straitening device into this hole to reinforce the broken part. The insert will get the efforts instead of the glue...
Now, you're left in the choice of the glue, material for the pin and size of the pin...

[Bob_Roller]

A member here did a repair on the pad, I think it was Bruce Launceston, but I may be wrong .

A small sheet metal tab was made, it looked like a wide staple, adhesive was applied to the crack in the rubber, then the 'staple' was pushed into the rubber after the crack was pushed closed, don't know if the rubber was cut to help start the staple, after the staple was in, it was covered in adhesive .

Don't know if this will help you out or not .

I did a search, but didn't come up with the thread that had this repair .

[Barry]

I used flat metal staples but no glue.


It seems to me the splits may occur due to the stresses of removing the pad. It tends to stick around the instruments and a certain amount of flexing is needed so when I put the pad back on I use a little silicone grease around the instrument bezels as a release agent for next time it comes off.

[bruce_launceston]

I have epoxy glued the plastic LS dash/cowling bits but have no experience with the rubber crash pad.